Walter67
Member
Is the rear main seal on a 1967 Plymouth 383 rope or rubber? I understand oil additive to eliminate oil leaks will not work on a rope seal.
67 Plymouth rear main seal question
- Thread starter Walter67
- Start date
1966newport
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2012
- Messages
- 905
- Reaction score
- 219
no additive will fix a rear main leak
BillGrissom
Active Member
My 65 383 had a split rubber seal. Don't know if original. Either way, you can fairly easily replace it w/ engine in the car. Remove oil pan and rear-most main bearing cap. Push the old top half (or rope) around, clean the upper cavity w/ soaked rag, Push new seal half in, w/ drop of superglue on each end to bond to bottom half. I recall there is also a strip seal for the bearing cap, at least the slant engine I did recently had that and uses the same rear seal as 426 Hemi. There is a upgraded seal at tuner shops.
If that bearing looks worn, best to replace all at this time, which you can do w/ engine installed, just don't unbolt all bearing caps at once so you support the crankshaft. Usually the rod bearings wear first, so might be a good time to inspect and change if you see or measure any wear.
If that bearing looks worn, best to replace all at this time, which you can do w/ engine installed, just don't unbolt all bearing caps at once so you support the crankshaft. Usually the rod bearings wear first, so might be a good time to inspect and change if you see or measure any wear.
65Fury440
Senior Member
I only removed the oil pan and bearing retainer to change my buddies 440 rear main seal. There was no reason to think the bearings needed any attention, and really just wanted to fix the gushing oil leak.
The upper part of the seal (rubber) was easily pushed out with a screwdriver after the retainer was removed. It was worn right out (motor sat for years, was very brittle).
In this case, we ordered a seal from 440 source.
The 2 side pieces (Viton?) fit in pretty tight. We sealed up the top of the bearing retainer with a very small bead of "The Right Stuff", and filled the sidewalls of the retainer in as well.
He has driven it quite a bit, dry as can be.
It isn't the easiest job in the world, but not very hard either, if you have a good place to work on it.
The upper part of the seal (rubber) was easily pushed out with a screwdriver after the retainer was removed. It was worn right out (motor sat for years, was very brittle).
In this case, we ordered a seal from 440 source.
The 2 side pieces (Viton?) fit in pretty tight. We sealed up the top of the bearing retainer with a very small bead of "The Right Stuff", and filled the sidewalls of the retainer in as well.
He has driven it quite a bit, dry as can be.
It isn't the easiest job in the world, but not very hard either, if you have a good place to work on it.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Did either of you guys have to loosen the caps of the con-rods?
I had to.
I had to.
65Fury440
Senior Member
If you mean the main bearing cap, no, I actually had a Craftsman screwdriver with a broken tip that I hadn't returned yet, was able to smack it a few times with the palm of my hand until it got far enough to grab with needle nose pliers.
I suppose you might have to loosen the con rods though if you dropped the crank, glad it didn't come to that.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
My crank was in too tight and I had no wiggle room to snake the upper half of the seal thru there.
65Fury440
Senior Member
That would take the job to the next level........ouch
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Yes. It sucked.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Don't line up the ends of the seal with the mating surfaces of the retainer. I usually stagger them a 1/8" to a 1/4" also a dab of rtv on protruding seal ends to compensate for manufacturing flaws.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Also the lip faces inward toward number 5 main bearing
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
It should be mandatory that you put one in backwards once in your life. To teach you a lesson you'll never forget... See reply #7 above.
Similar threads
- Locked
