68 383 4 barrel - carb just rebuilt and has a sputter when I floor it

If and when you "learn" the car better, you'll find that a 1/2 throttle punch from idle it will leave dang near as hard as you want it to, with your idle-to-WOT stomp About 1/2 way through low gear, then use WOT. With those taller , you could well have made a 2.76 axle ratio into an effective 2.50 ratio, due to the bigger diameter. Not to forget about the speedometer now reading slower than actual road speed at the same time.

When you put that much potential air flow to the engine at too low of an rpm, it's very similar to a 4bbl where the secondaries open too soon. The "bog mode", until rpms slowly get high enough to use all of that air flow through the carb. And with a lower numeric rear axle ratio, it only extends that time for the rpms to build, which magnifies the whole situation somewhat. Not to mention the possibility of bad language from the driver as the car is not as responsive as they might desire, given the greater desire for acceleration that isn't happening.

Plus, you've most probably got a "high traction", "highway gear", "4000lb vehicle" issue. Or the "too much tire, too much weight, not enough gear" syndrome. If you want to have "instant smoke" from the tire(s) off idle, get some of the 5.0" tread width tires the cars originally came with. MUCH easier to spin than the wider treads that came later or the later rubber compounds to tend to bite better.

There's a movie from the '80s, where the main characters are driving a '70 'Cuda convertible. 2x4 tunnel ram. They are out in the country getting ready to leave some friends. So, they get into the 'Cuda, fire it up, slam it into "R", and punch it to leave is a cloud of dust. THEN, that famous "POP" happens out of the carb, as it spits back with the quick throttle punch. Dies, then re-starts. When we saw that, we all laughed and opined, "Been there, done that".

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
It has been said before, but it bears repeating: "Most carburetor and fuel-related problems are electrical. . ."

Yup. Don't get stuck on the one track. Chances are, if the car did the same thing, then whatever was touched wasn't the problem. Chck the points - the dwell specifically. Check the vacuum advance unit and base timing. Get a manual and follow the diagnostic tree.
 
One last thought . . .

Rather than "off-idle" events, get up to about 30mph cruise. Space available, then floor it. The TF kicks down to Low, engine rpms hit about 2300rpms+, as the torque curve quickly builds and turns into the horsepower curve. Then the TF hits a (hopefully) leaf-spring twisting 1-2 shift, rear tire noise happens. You smile and say "That's good!" . . . as you slow down, appropriately.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
So the shop called and said the secondaries weren't opening properly On the carb they just rebuilt. They had a similar carb on the shelf with electric choke and swapped it out for free. Said it isn't bogging down anymore. Won't know till Saturday when I can pick it up but hopefully all is good from there.
 
hope you can test it out before hand...
 
I can and will test it before I take it. Tomorrow at lunch I'll get to find out. Fingers crossed. I'll report back next week once I've had ample time to test. Lots of rain in the forecast so I don't anticipate driving much the first couple days. But I do have about a 15 mile drive home from the mechanic.
 
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