'68 Fury PS return control valve leaking

[Zaggart]

When I had my mechanic fix a bunch of things this spring they left the power steering leak issues as an "that's easy enough you should be able to tackle it" thing. Unfortunately as evidenced in my other posts I think they greatly overestimated my abilities since I know how to change oil and brakes. I think i have the last issue finally narrowed down to the PS return valve control body though. It definitely dribbles out from the bottom seam of this thing although not as fast after I removed the inline filter as Big_John suggested (thank you). I'm guessing a bad o-ring but my guesses have been wrong all summer. My questions are as follows:

a) Is this really an easy swap as it appears on pg 19-11 of the service manual - i.e. just two bolts and two O rings that pop back on? No additional adjustments needed to keep another problem from appearing, etc.?

b) I see a number of these listed for A,B,E bodies, but nothing for C or Furies specifically. Does anyone have a link or would this one (below) work anyway? It is a 3/8" hose. I'm amassing a small pile of parts that just don't quite fit since return shipping is ridiculous and the local Auto Zone mainly sells shrugged shoulders for vehicles this old.

1967-74 Mopar ABE-Body Power Steering Pressure Control Valve Body with A 3/8 Dia Return Hose - OER 2537227 - Classic Body Parts

Authentic reproduction of the original power steering pressure control valve return fitting for the steering sector on 1967-74 various Dodge and Plymouth

classicbodyparts.com

Thanks!

 

[MEV]

Take it apart. There are 2 orings, different sizes, go to your nearest hydraulic hose builder OR a good autoparts store and have them match the orings for you, re-install. Do not over tighten the part is cast aluminum and breaks easily. There will be some slop in the bolts, which allows for adjustment. Support the front end with the wheels off the ground, with the car running the wheels should not turn left or right, but stay centered. If they turn to the lock, loosen the bolts on that fitting and move it slightly in the opposite direction and re-tighten. By trial and error you can find a position where the wheels do not move left or right without the application of steering input.

 

[Davea Lux]

The main issue with messing with the PA valve is going to be getting it lined back up. The two bolts go thru slotted holes so that the valve body can be moved up or down. You need to carefully scribe the position of the valve body before attempting to take the bolts loose. If the valve body is moved from its current position, the car will then self steer to the right or left. This adjustment is tricky to get right as 1/64" of movement is enough to cause a self steer issue. As noted, the o-rings need to be the high pressure hydraulic type or they will blow out.

Dave

 

[1971 300 Alvah]

Super easy to do. Two small bolts, ensure the o rings are good. You've got this! I believe in you! The bolts aren't that tight, don't overtighten them, they're small.

 

[1971 300 Alvah]

To question some of the advice, I think the OP is just asking about the fitting for the low pressure return line which I don't believe has any adjustment or affects on steering?

 

[Zaggart]

To question some of the advice, I think the OP is just asking about the fitting for the low pressure return line which I don't believe has any adjustment or affects on steering?

That's what I'm hoping it is according to the picture.. The elbow that the low pressure hose connects to. If it's any more than that it'll have to wait til spring, and a professional.

 

[MEV]

There is an adjustment, and it is in the position of the fitting. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but the above advice is correct in mine and davea's posts

 

[Zaggart]

Thanks! Glad I didn't just take it apart. I'll stock up on cardboard and tackle it in the spring.

 

[RemCharger]

Super easy to do. Two small bolts, ensure the o rings are good. You've got this! I believe in you! The bolts aren't that tight, don't overtighten them, they're small.

This is correct.

There is an adjustment, and it is in the position of the fitting. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but the above advice is correct in mine and davea's posts

This is not correct. (It would be if we were talking about removing the whole thing, but the pictures show we are not)

If you're quick, we're talking 20 min tops

 

[Davea Lux]

Most likely, the whole assembly will need to come off. Usually when they leak, it will be on the o-ring where the PA assembly is attached to the gear body. That is a high pressure point and is usually the one that blows out. The hose bib on the low pressure side rarely blows out although the o-ring might have cracked after 50 years or so. In any case, if one has gone, the rest are not far behind so they should all be replaced. The low pressure hose should also have a spring type clamp, not a fuel line clamp. Chrysler engineers wanted some give to the clamps to keep them from cutting the hose under stress.

Dave

 

[Barry S]

FWIW, I had a leak at exactly the same place on my 67 Newport, and it was leaking pretty good. I bought a Power Steering Control Valve Seal Kit from Rock Auto to get the necessary o rings (I bought the most expensive one they had, and it was like 4 bucks). This kit has all of the o rings necessary for both sides of the control valve. I removed the two bolts highlighted in your picture, cleaned up the surfaces, put on just those new o rings, and put it back together. It hasn't leaked since (fingers crossed). Since I didn't disturb the bolts holding the control valve to the steering unit, no adjustment was necessary. You may want to try that. If there is still a leak where the control valve attaches to the steering unit, then you'll have to remove the control valve from the steering unit, but you'll have the necessary o rings to fix that. An adjustment will be necessary, and there are some excellent posts here on how to do that. It's fussy, but not hard.

 

[MEV]

This is correct.

This is not correct. (It would be if we were talking about removing the whole thing, but the pictures show we are not)

If you're quick, we're talking 20 min tops

If we are talking only the cast aluminum nipple, i was incorrect as mentioned. Since the adjustment was asked about i assumed you wanted the "whole meal deal"

 

[Zaggart]

Thanks all, more clarification I'm hoping to just touch/replace the control valve body (it appears that the fitting/gasket/spring/piston) above it in the exploded diagram below come pre-installed on new ones. If the steering valve body is what requires the finer adjustments I'll make sure not to mess with that.

 

[Zaggart]

FWIW, I had a leak at exactly the same place on my 67 Newport, and it was leaking pretty good. I bought a Power Steering Control Valve Seal Kit from Rock Auto to get the necessary o rings (I bought the most expensive one they had, and it was like 4 bucks). This kit has all of the o rings necessary for both sides of the control valve. I removed the two bolts highlighted in your picture, cleaned up the surfaces, put on just those new o rings, and put it back together. It hasn't leaked since (fingers crossed). Since I didn't disturb the bolts holding the control valve to the steering unit, no adjustment was necessary. You may want to try that. If there is still a leak where the control valve attaches to the steering unit, then you'll have to remove the control valve from the steering unit, but you'll have the necessary o rings to fix that. An adjustment will be necessary, and there are some excellent posts here on how to do that. It's fussy, but not hard.

Thanks Barry,

I have that kit on the way now. I can't let something just sit if it looks easy.