68 heater box (no AC) question

3175375

Senior Member
Joined
May 16, 2018
Messages
4,752
Reaction score
8,559
Location
Centerville, South Dakota
I’m cleaning up the heater box from Elwood, my 68 Fury II 4 door sedan.
It doesn’t have AC.

Can I remove this piece? (The steel)

It appears to be swedged onto the shaft that it pivots on.

IMG_3671.jpeg
 
I believe that is a mixing door for floor to defrost air flow. I did mine some time ago and was sure there was a reason for it. That curved tail piece looks like it should have cable attached. Maybe others can assist with more accuracy.
 
I believe that is a mixing door for floor to defrost air flow. I did mine some time ago and was sure there was a reason for it. That curved tail piece looks like it should have cable attached. Maybe others can assist with more accuracy.
I got all of the other pieces out and am cleaning them up.
I believe that you are correct on identifying the blend door. I am asking how to get the door out. I am probably going to clean it up in place, paint it and move forward.
The equipment will be working fine long after I am dust.
 
I’m cleaning up the heater box from Elwood, my 68 Fury II 4 door sedan.
It doesn’t have AC.

Can I remove this piece? (The steel)

It appears to be swedged onto the shaft that it pivots on.

View attachment 695900
It is one piece but you should be able to get it out. I think when I did mine, I popped it out of the bottom hole, then finagled it through the metal bracket without removing that bracket but it has been a lot of years. At least I don't recall having to rivet that bracket back on to the housing. Good luck and I hope you took lots of pictures of the dis-assembly.
 
It is one piece but you should be able to get it out. I think when I did mine, I popped it out of the bottom hole, then finagled it through the metal bracket without removing that bracket but it has been a lot of years. At least I don't recall having to rivet that bracket back on to the housing. Good luck and I hope you took lots of pictures of the dis-assembly.
Thanks
I will try to get it out that way.
I have done a couple of ford heater boxes this one is very similar.
 
I am probably going to clean it up in place, paint it and move forward.
Why bother? Your never going to see it, just give it a rubbing with steel wool and slap some clear on it while it's in the box if your so concerned about it rusting some more.
Why make more work for yourself it wasn't painted from the factory.

.
 
Why bother? Your never going to see it, just give it a rubbing with steel wool and slap some clear on it while it's in the box if your so concerned about it rusting some more.
Why make more work for yourself it wasn't painted from the factory.

.
One of the character defects that I have is doing the job better than needed. It’s a wrestle for me between ‘make it awesome’ and ‘it’s going to be better than before you f’d with it’…
 
If I recall correctly that is the one piece I couldn't remove when I rebuilt my heater box. I cleaned it up best I could without damaging where it mounts to the box. I found repairing and using the original heater box very satisfying once I figured out how to properly route the vacuum hoses that controls the vents.

Good luck
 
If I recall correctly that is the one piece I couldn't remove when I rebuilt my heater box. I cleaned it up best I could without damaging where it mounts to the box. I found repairing and using the original heater box very satisfying once I figured out how to properly route the vacuum hoses that controls the vents.

Good luck
Thanks for the replies!

This box is controlled with 3 cables and the blower speed. I’ll revisit and post in the project thread what I end up doing.
 
I drilled out the rivet and cleaned up and re-plated both when I rebuilt mine. I did not remove the rubber bumper from the door as it was stapled on.
 
Thanks
I will try to get it out that way.
I have done a couple of ford heater boxes this one is very similar.
If you don't want to remove it, you could toss the whole housing in a large tote with a molasses concoction. After a few days the rust would be gone and it wouldn't hurt the fiber housing. You could then clean it up with some soap n water and spray some clear coat on. Should be good for another lifetime.
 
If you don't want to remove it, you could toss the whole housing in a large tote with a molasses concoction. After a few days the rust would be gone and it wouldn't hurt the fiber housing. You could then clean it up with some soap n water and spray some clear coat on. Should be good for another lifetime.
Molasses concoction? Please elaborate…
 
Molasses concoction? Please elaborate…
There are a few threads on here concerning the molasses bath. I use a large tote. Buy a gallon of molasses from the farm store and mix it with 7 gallons of water in the tote. Toss in what I want to de-rust and let it sit for a few days. The bath will dissolve the rust. It is a cheap method and eco friendly when you want to dispose of it.
It does have a strong odor so you want to keep it covered. Some guys use a 55 gallon drum for larger parts but the tote works well for me.
 
I figured out that there’s a c clip under the sheet metal, popped that out and was able to remove the pieces.
I had to bend the end a little, but was successful.
IMG_3679.jpeg
IMG_3680.jpeg
 
Back
Top