69 Chrysler brake booster question

AlecB

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I’m helping a friend resurrect a 1969 Chrysler Town & Country station wagon, 383 HP. The brake booster seems to be shot and the brakes are non existent. He is going to buy a new master cylinder and booster, but I wanted to know if a unit from a 90s Durango/Truck would work as an affordable alternative.

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Look at the aftermarket ones. Your booster looks like 8 or 9" dia so it is a tight fit.
 
I don't know about the newer parts swap compatibility, could possibly work? That is the small diameter, dual diaphragm booster that came with the car originally, quite sought after for its size and performance. I would have it rebuilt and reinstall. That's not exactly cheap, but it will save you alot of headaches.
 
Many people perceive that all the parts are the same and any auto supply can get them, which is about 45+ years out of date. Even back then, the power disc brake boosters would probably need to be ordered, too.

The main issue with fitment is the diameter of the booster body, plus its "dual-diaphram" length issue (also related to the factory disc brake option). Plus the mounting plate possibly having different spacing than anything newer than possibly 1978?

As mentioned, the best option is to get the orig booster rebuilt by the above-mentioned company. The wait will be worth it.

Nice looking car. I always thought the Chrysler fuselage wagons were some of the best looking wagons ever made, back then. One great "aero" design, front to back. Only thing close was the similar-year B-body wagons.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Keep and rebuild that Bendix Dual Diaphragm booster that you have. There is no better booster! Have your master cylinder rebuilt also. It is close to the Hemi MC. Don't buy that Chinese junk!!!
 
For the time being, my friend is going to find an aftermarket unit so he can at least drive the car safely. Later on, he will get the original booster rebuilt. We washed the car today, it looks way better with that bronze paint gleaming.

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Update on the brakes: So it turned out that the master cylinder was seized in the forward position. The brake pedal push rod was moving in free space without even touching the master cylinder, which is why we had zero brake pedal. We swapped on a new master cylinder, bled the brakes and now the pedal is rock-hard. We still haven't driven the car yet so we don't know for certain if the booster is even bad. My friend picked up a new booster just in case. Unfortunately, the starter motor is on its last legs, so that is the next repair before we try to drive the car.
 
We got the new master cylinder in, bled the brakes, now that pedal is rock hard. We also had to swap out the starter. This car runs and drives now, still needs to be tuned and some other things fixed, but boy is it fun. We parked it next to my neighbors ‘78 Concord, it looks puny compared to the big C body. Big block power and open differential means this wagon can lay patch indefinitely.

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