69mopar man
Member
Hey any preference for spark plugs on a 69 318 la motor, I got a little spark knock from running reg unleaded got premium it in now but still has slight knock
69 fury spark plugs
- Thread starter 69mopar man
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Slap Stick
Active Member
Either you have carbon buildup, ignition timing is too advanced or the carb is jetted too lean.
It darn sure shouldn't ping on premium fuel.
IIRC that madel year used N14Y or equivalent and later years were one heat range colder, N13Y.
It darn sure shouldn't ping on premium fuel.
IIRC that madel year used N14Y or equivalent and later years were one heat range colder, N13Y.
69mopar man
Member
What’s 11rc?
Find some fuel additive with PEA in it (Gumout is one), dump in one bottle with a full tank, and put that car on the Interstate (at prevailing speeds), and run it for at least 100 miles. Then get it back in and check the base timing. NGK V-Power plugs put a bit more eagerness into my '80 360 than the normal plugs that were in it when I got the car. Head toward the N13Y heat range, even with resistor plugs. Plug gap can be .040" or so.
Although the carb is calibrated toward the lean side of things for emissions, it should not have gotten "lean with age". You can check the carb base for vac leaks, just so you know they are all tight.
IF it still clatters, back-off the timing about 2 degrees BTDC and see how it goes. Is it "trace rattle" on moderate part-throttle accelerations or clatter at WOT?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Although the carb is calibrated toward the lean side of things for emissions, it should not have gotten "lean with age". You can check the carb base for vac leaks, just so you know they are all tight.
IF it still clatters, back-off the timing about 2 degrees BTDC and see how it goes. Is it "trace rattle" on moderate part-throttle accelerations or clatter at WOT?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
69mopar man
Member
What’s WOT ? It knocked something fierce on reg unleaded with some acceleration , not so easy to hear with premium
69mopar man
Member
So get N13y ? What brand?
69mopar man
Member
I believe it’s trace rattle at low speeds I’ll add some gum out and run that tank out then change plugs the car sat for 30 yrs has only 32k miles on it I had carb rebuilt , ran good last fall and when I started in dead of winter had some lifter tap so I put in 15w50 oil and added some rislone to crankcase noise got better it only makes that lifter tap for a few seconds at startup
That quart of Rislone detergent additive probably thinned that 15W50 down to about 10W35 range, I suspect. Still, a decent detergent additive for what it's worth. Thinner oil gets to more places quicker than heavier oil.
CBODY67
CBODY67
69mopar man
Member
I’ve never run it at WOT , with the car being so old I’ve babied it , do I dare run it WOT with the present slight lifter tap at startup and have 1/2 tank of premium with the rislone in now or wait till that’s gone before adding the gum out ?
69mopar man
Member
Ok thanks cbody67 I’ll keep you posted , one more thing when I start up let it warm up a few minutes when I put in gear it clunks it has 83/4 rear and 727 trans and I never changed tranny fluid
69chrysler300vert
New Member
A clunk on a 727 is normal. I don’t know why they do it but all 727s do that.
Clunk going into "R" from "P" or going into "D" from "P"?
The "a bit stronger" engagement into "R" has possibly two reasons, if I remember correctly, or at least one. The apply pressures for "R" are higher than those for "D". The fluid circuit for "D" goes through an accumulator (with a spring behind a piston) to soften the engagement.
Even when the car was new, and especially after the OEM fluid was changed, on the first start of the morning, if the transmission was shifted into "R", the car might not move immediately, but would after the fluid circuits got fully charged a second or so later. Perhaps the higher line pressure in "R" was to compensate for that a bit? The way to counteract this is to start the car in "N", which has better flow to the torque converter, rather than "P", which only has "lube pressure" in that selector position. By comparison, these situations don't seem to happen in GM transmissions, for whatever reason.
So, some mild clunks are normal in your situation. And, if cruising at about 45mph, some quick on-off throttle activities can induce similar clunks from the rear axle. That's normal, too.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
The "a bit stronger" engagement into "R" has possibly two reasons, if I remember correctly, or at least one. The apply pressures for "R" are higher than those for "D". The fluid circuit for "D" goes through an accumulator (with a spring behind a piston) to soften the engagement.
Even when the car was new, and especially after the OEM fluid was changed, on the first start of the morning, if the transmission was shifted into "R", the car might not move immediately, but would after the fluid circuits got fully charged a second or so later. Perhaps the higher line pressure in "R" was to compensate for that a bit? The way to counteract this is to start the car in "N", which has better flow to the torque converter, rather than "P", which only has "lube pressure" in that selector position. By comparison, these situations don't seem to happen in GM transmissions, for whatever reason.
So, some mild clunks are normal in your situation. And, if cruising at about 45mph, some quick on-off throttle activities can induce similar clunks from the rear axle. That's normal, too.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
69mopar man
Member
Ok I added rislone with the pea in it to about a half tank ran it wot many times put 130 miles on it and it seems to be loader at both low speeds and wot , I’ll run it out of gas and another full tank of premium this is really annoying for a car with such low miles even if it’s so old
69mopar man
Member
Sorry spellcheck louder than before at low and wot
69mopar man
Member
Chunk from p into r
Retard the timing now. Don't drive it pinging. And why put the 15/50 oil in? Thinner oil will get to more places than think oil will
Just drive it around with a warm engine. The hot oil will help it, but the tick really will just bother you more than hurt anything.
Just drive it around with a warm engine. The hot oil will help it, but the tick really will just bother you more than hurt anything.
Last edited:
69mopar man
Member
I’m a novice can you walk me through it which way do I turn distributer cap and how much ? Have it running ? Take off air cleaner ?
The unfortunate part of additives is that they do not magically work instantly. NONE do, no matter what the container claims. In the case of an oil detergent additive, if it worked to magically clean the engine of all gunk, it would then clog the oil filter after the first minutes of run time. So all additives work slowly, over time. Which is one reason for "Top Tier" fuels with an optimum amount of fuel detergents in them to keep things cleaner to start with. If the fuel is "Top Tier", there will be a stick on the fact of the fuel pump stating such, near any state certification for accuracy and "amount of ethanol" notifications.
Fuel cleaner additives with PEA are acknowledged to be the best ones available, although nobody claims "more" in their advertising or mentioning "optimum levels" either. Still does not mean they work "instantly".
The engine should NOT be clattering/spark knocking with 93 pump octane fuel. Set the ignition timing to stock OEM specs. If the clatters continue, retard it 2 degrees more to help decrease it. THEN drive it so as to not make it knock. Highway miles at 60+mph get the engine into a heat range where the carbon can get cooked-out gradually over time. Even if the engine does not or should not have any significant carbon build-up in the combustion chambers. Which is why longer trips (1 tank of fuel, continuously rather than cumulatively) are the best ways to de-carbon an engine.
If the engine still has ignition points, check and adjust the dwell. Set the dwell first, THEN set the base timing. In that order!
CBODY67
Fuel cleaner additives with PEA are acknowledged to be the best ones available, although nobody claims "more" in their advertising or mentioning "optimum levels" either. Still does not mean they work "instantly".
The engine should NOT be clattering/spark knocking with 93 pump octane fuel. Set the ignition timing to stock OEM specs. If the clatters continue, retard it 2 degrees more to help decrease it. THEN drive it so as to not make it knock. Highway miles at 60+mph get the engine into a heat range where the carbon can get cooked-out gradually over time. Even if the engine does not or should not have any significant carbon build-up in the combustion chambers. Which is why longer trips (1 tank of fuel, continuously rather than cumulatively) are the best ways to de-carbon an engine.
If the engine still has ignition points, check and adjust the dwell. Set the dwell first, THEN set the base timing. In that order!
CBODY67
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