70bigblockdodge- and anyone else, cam opinion please

[65Fury440]

The ......POS....... was a joke. I was pleased with the power the engine made, as it made 500 lb-ft from 3500-6000 rpm. Yep, we put in a 278/280 @ .050 solid roller that Racer Brown made for my Dad back in 1968 and it made 658 HP @ 6,600 RPM.

The better heads will allow the horsepower to hang on as you wind the engine and there is a lot more to RPM of peak horsepower than port volume.

I believe that the cam and cfm of the port has a greater effect on rpm of peak horsepower than the volume of the port at the airflows that you have. I think that even a well done intake port, on a B-1 Original head, doesn't have too much volume to have a deleterious effect on port velocity and engine performance.

I really still believe your rpm of peak horsepower will be at 6,000 rpm or less (we've built too many 493-505 inch engines with street solid rollers [256-260 degrees @ .050"] that make 650tq/650hp at 5.800-6,000 rpm), and, that it will keep over 600 HP for a long ways after 6,000 rpm.

LOL ok makes sense, yea I was thinkin , "how much power did he expect?"

I hope your right, I'm not too hung up on the HP numbers, I would be really happy though if it held 600Lbs TQ for a while. I really don't want to spin much past 6k,if at all.
I expect to have the motor together in the next 8 weeks. It will be interesting to see how it runs!

Thanks again for your time and knowledge!

 

[heyoldguy]

I would expect 600 lb-ft of torque for a 2,000 rpm range, say 3,500-5,500 rpm.

 

[BigFury]

I'm building a 431 stroker for my 65 Sport. I called Jim Dowell at Racer Brown and he ground me a real nice cam. He definitely knows Mopar and will want to know everything about your set up.. #410 866-7660. Call him after 3 pm EST sometimes later. You simply won't deal with a better guy.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I'm building a 431 stroker for my 65 Sport. I called Jim Dowell at Racer Brown and he ground me a real nice cam. He definitely knows Mopar and will want to know everything about your set up.. #410 866-7660. Call him after 3 pm EST sometimes later. You simply won't deal with a better guy.

Let us know how that this one goes I have a 2 bbl 383 that is begging for a RB crank.

 

[BigFury]

Will do. On a tight budget have a 65 HP block and a buddy had a clean 440 forged crank. Seemed like a sensible route to go for a big car. Diamond makes a nice piston...That's the big coin to make it happen. Good info here.. www. arengineering.com The Jackson Garage.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Will do. On a tight budget have a 65 HP block and a buddy had a clean 440 forged crank. Seemed like a sensible route to go for a big car. Diamond makes a nice piston...That's the big coin to make it happen. Good info here.. www. arengineering.com The Jackson Garage.

Yeah Diamond is really proud of their pistons and I just wanted to make a street and strip engine, I found a set of forged 454 Chevy pistons TRWs I think but they need some mods which may offset the lower $ cost. I will see if I can locate the paper I wrote the stuff down on.

 

[BigFury]

Proud! Yes...Excellent choice of words. They quoted me $1,000.00 for a FT piston and Molly ring pack. But I have a nice forged crank that a buddy let me have and I'm going to use my 383 rods. A budget stroker if there ever was one. I'd be interested in seeing your BBC piston info.. I know some of the B strokers have used Chevy rods with some grinding.

One thing I am on the fence on is whether to use iron 906 \452 heads or just get the stealth heads. This is purely a street mill so I don't need huge flow up top. Thoughts?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

The main thing was if I remember I wanted to see if I could get the piston pin hole redrilled offset to also help move the compression height more in the right direction and just reuse the 1.094 mopar pins.

 

[BigFury]

The main thing was if I remember I wanted to see if I could get the piston pin hole redrilled offset to also help move the compression height more in the right direction and just reuse the 1.094 mopar pins.

I see I see... Will follow.

 

[twostick]

Proud! Yes...Excellent choice of words. They quoted me $1,000.00 for a FT piston and Molly ring pack. But I have a nice forged crank that a buddy let me have and I'm going to use my 383 rods. A budget stroker if there ever was one. I'd be interested in seeing your BBC piston info.. I know some of the B strokers have used Chevy rods with some grinding.

One thing I am on the fence on is whether to use iron 906 \452 heads or just get the stealth heads. This is purely a street mill so I don't need huge flow up top. Thoughts?

Check out 440 Source. Their 383 piston kits are $600. You might want to look into their rods also. By the time you pay to resize your old rods and buy new ARP bolts you've put a pretty good dent in the price of new H-beams. And while I'm spending your money, a 4.25" crank in a 383 is 496....

The Stealth head is a good casting but from discussions on Moparts, OOTB the Sidewinder will be head and shoulders above it flow wise. I think it is at least 40 cfm better OOTB.

In any case again by the time you pay to properly rebuild a set of 452's, you just paid for all or a large part of the 2 aluminum heads mentioned. If you are adding hardened seats to a set of 906's on top of the rest well it's even more of a no brainer. The extra power from the increased flow is pretty much free at this point.

Kevin

 

[BigFury]

Check out 440 Source. Their 383 piston kits are $600. You might want to look into their rods also. By the time you pay to resize your old rods and buy new ARP bolts you've put a pretty good dent in the price of new H-beams. And while I'm spending your money, a 4.25" crank in a 383 is 496....

The Stealth head is a good casting but from discussions on Moparts, OOTB the Sidewinder will be head and shoulders above it flow wise. I think it is at least 40 cfm better OOTB.

In any case again by the time you pay to properly rebuild a set of 452's, you just paid for all or a large part of the 2 aluminum heads mentioned. If you are adding hardened seats to a set of 906's on top of the rest well it's even more of a no brainer. The extra power from the increased flow is pretty much free at this point.


Kevin

Thanks that's really great advice, I am really trying to put together a decent street mill and stay in a targeted budget. The 3.75 crank I have now is a really clean low mileage piece so I def want to use it in the build. The 440 source piston\rod route is a more economical for sure.. Taking my junk to the builder in October so he set me straight and put something together.