727 Missing a click

[Tony Mopar]

Got a strange problem here:

When installing a new B&M shifter + cable on my 727 TF, the transmissing only has 4 clicks moving the gear selector, when it suppose to have 5 right? 1-> 2 -> D -> N-> R -> P. Its not a cable or bracket issue, because when I remove the cable completly, and just have the gear selector bracket attached, i'm counting 4 clicks, instead of five....

The cable fits just fine. no matter from which point I start to adjust the cable: When I adjust the cable in low or first gear, it shifts all the way up the the R position. And if I start on P, it shifts flawlessly to second gear. But either way, it just misses a click - gear.... The gear selector bracket can be only installed in one position, so preventing movement just because the bracket got stuck or something, thats not the case.

Also, I'm not sure which gear position im missing now: is is the P or 1? Are there ways to determine that?

Any suggestions?

Its a 383 with a 727, there is no driveshaft attached as I recently did an engine swap to this 383.

 

[Justin Plant]

Several years ago I installed a B&M on a 85 Monte Carlo SS. Same problem. I was doing it for a friend, we worked on that thing for an hour trying to figure it out. Never could, He bought the shifter at a swap meet, so there was no taking it back. We double checked the PN with B&M's site and all looked correct. In the end he did without 1st gear.

 

[Whiskytango]

Several years ago I installed a B&M on a 85 Monte Carlo SS. Same problem. I was doing it for a friend, we worked on that thing for an hour trying to figure it out. Never could, He bought the shifter at a swap meet, so there was no taking it back. We double checked the PN with B&M's site and all looked correct. In the end he did without 1st gear.

Try turning the tranny output shaft. Sometimes wont go into park unless moved a bit to engage Lever into park gear.

 

[twostick]

Missboxed Powerglide shifter?

Kevin

 

[CBODY67]

Missboxed Powerglide shifter?

Kevin

In drag racing, doing a burnout in "1"/"L" can kill the sprag clutch, so advisable to use another forward gear position for that. To me, setting "P" and "D" would be more important. Modify the governor so shifts occur on cue, when needed, so "Put it in D" and go.

Is there a shift gate in the shifter or is it just relying upon the rooster comb in the trans for the detents?

CBODY67

 

[RemCharger]

If it's truly new as stated , there are instructions as to which shift gate to convert it to. Chrysler 727 is what you're looking for. And it won't necessarily click into park without turning the drive shaft to line up the park pawl.
In 1st gear the 727 applies the low band to help the sprag hold.
it's burnouts in drive, where the trans not shifted out of 1st yet and let off the gas, that rolls the sprag over. Always do burnouts starting in low range and work your way up

 

[Tony Mopar]

Thanx Whiskey, I'm gonna try that today.

 

[MONC440]

FYI I usually move the lever on the transmission all the way forward ( first gear) put the shifter in 1st gear and adjust it to just slip in the arm, then move the arm and shifter one gear at a time and make sure the adjustment is correct at each location. I toasted a trans with a full manual valve body one because it was slightly off in 3rd gear and allowed pressure to 2nd and 3rd at the same time.

 

[twostick]

In drag racing, doing a burnout in "1"/"L" can kill the sprag clutch, so advisable to use another forward gear position for that. To me, setting "P" and "D" would be more important. Modify the governor so shifts occur on cue, when needed, so "Put it in D" and go.

Is there a shift gate in the shifter or is it just relying upon the rooster comb in the trans for the detents?

CBODY67

In a full manual valvebody with no low band apply function, this is true.

If the trans is still fully automatic, or it has a manual valvebody with low band apply, you start in 1, which applies the band in addition to the sprag and then shift to 2 and 3, if the combo has enough steam to maintain wheelspeed. The band helps hold the drum with sprag.

With an automatic valvebody, you under no circumstances want it to downshift back into 1. The band only applies in manual 1, so if it downshifts, only the sprag is holding the load. You release the brakes and roll out of the throttle at the same time so when the tires bite, there is no shock load on the sprag.

This is what happens when a sprag gets rolled.

Kevin

 

[MONC440]

In a full manual valvebody with no low band apply function, this is true.

If the trans is still fully automatic, or it has a manual valvebody with low band apply, you start in 1, which applies the band in addition to the sprag and then shift to 2 and 3, if the combo has enough steam to maintain wheelspeed. The band helps hold the drum with sprag.

With an automatic valvebody, you under no circumstances want it to downshift back into 1. The band only applies in manual 1, so if it downshifts, only the sprag is holding the load. You release the brakes and roll out of the throttle at the same time so when the tires bite, there is no shock load on the sprag.

This is what happens when a sprag gets rolled.

Kevin

View attachment 679074

This is why I will only use a manual valve body WITH low band apply. Cope makes them as do others.

 

[Tony Mopar]

Tried to rotate the transmission shaft while clicking the gear selector. Still 4 clicks....But at least now I know that im missing the P, because the shaft rotates freely on all selected gears. Now I'm only assuming this as the shaft won't rotate when in P right?

 

[MONC440]

The park paw maybe frozen. The rod inside the trans that engages the park paw has a spring on it so you should still be able to move the external level into the park position unless something inside is assembled incorrectly. Push back fairly hard on the lever and see if it feels like a spring is pushing back.

 

[3175375]

The park paw maybe frozen. The rod inside the trans that engages the park paw has a spring on it so you should still be able to move the external level into the park position unless something inside is assembled incorrectly. Push back fairly hard on the lever and see if it feels like a spring is pushing back.

I had trouble when I put the valve body back in Elwood, my 68 Plymouth Fury. It has a 904, but the parking/shift control is almost the same.

I thought I had an issue with the parking pawl, but it was a misplaced valve arm. I didn’t have the valve centered on the arm.

 

[Tony Mopar]

Thanx guys, guess dropping the pan is the next step.

 

['66 Fury I]

Looking at the first post, there is a triangular shaped bracket which seems to be held in place by a couple pan bolts. That looks like a bracket on the trans on a '88 police cruiser I had years ago. the purpose of that bracket was to prevent selecting low gear ("1") position. I removed the bracket and the shifter worked normally. Lindsay

 

[CBODY67]

Looking at the first post, there is a triangular shaped bracket which seems to be held in place by a couple pan bolts. That looks like a bracket on the trans on a '88 police cruiser I had years ago. the purpose of that bracket was to prevent selecting low gear ("1") position. I removed the bracket and the shifter worked normally. Lindsay

Yes, most police cars' TFs had a "Low Gear Blockout" on them. Would not go into manual Low/"1".

Reason? Normally, when you move from "P" to "D", that's as far as things go, BUT in the heat of the moment, the shift lever gets slammed (so to speak) into "1" by mistake. Then, you know what happens several seconds later . . . engine at WOT . . . chase over, or at least the transmission not upshifting alerts the driver that "Time to Shift!", dum-dum. Then, "Calm down! You're in a Mopar!". So, keeping the shift lever out of manual low (only) has its merits.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Tony Mopar]

In this case, thats the bracket for the shiftercable that B&M provided with the shifter.