thrashingcows
Senior Member
I wish it was that cheap, they are large brass washer and there are 5 big thrust washers, and 3 small ones. The kit I got cost me $30 cdn.
727 rebuild guide....
- Thread starter thrashingcows
- Start date
I wish it was that cheap, they are large brass washer and there are 5 big thrust washers, and 3 small ones. The kit I got cost me $30 cdn.
72Fury
Senior Member
I was going to ask you that. I went through the parts catalog for 1972 (that I have) & it showed your 4 & 3 setup. The Hp had the 4 & 4. That was really the only difference that I found. I'm sure there is more, but maybe not.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
So. . . That was $7.50 US ?
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Thanks for sharing the experience.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
More to come...just waiting on parts, and having to work for a living cuts into car time too....;)
73Coupe
Senior Member
Looking forward to your progress. I just had mine flushed and there were clutch bits on the filter. Might have to do mine as well before too long...
thrashingcows
Senior Member
All the extra parts I needed are in. I picked up my thrust washers, and new torque converter today. will try and get most of the main parts cleaned and assembled after work this week. Hope to have it re-assembled next weekend.
Will update with info and pics once I start getting to it.
Will update with info and pics once I start getting to it.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
:sixpack:
thrashingcows
Senior Member
OK here's a brief re-assembly of the tranny...
Got the re-man torque converter from Rockauto. Bought the stone stock unit for the 71 300 the tranny came out of.
Looks darn close to me...;)
Then I had to compress the springs to get the snap ring off this assembly. There is two piston seals that have to be changed. I made this set-up with a 4" ABS pipe coupler with a notch cut out to access the snap ring.
Here's what it looks like coming apart...
And here you can see the inner and outer rubber seals that need to be replaced....
And the re-assembly. This required a second notch to be cut 180* apart from the first...so you could wrestle that darn snap ring back into place.
Got the re-man torque converter from Rockauto. Bought the stone stock unit for the 71 300 the tranny came out of.
Looks darn close to me...;)
Then I had to compress the springs to get the snap ring off this assembly. There is two piston seals that have to be changed. I made this set-up with a 4" ABS pipe coupler with a notch cut out to access the snap ring.
Here's what it looks like coming apart...
And here you can see the inner and outer rubber seals that need to be replaced....
And the re-assembly. This required a second notch to be cut 180* apart from the first...so you could wrestle that darn snap ring back into place.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Next assembly...
Removed the wave ring and pulled things apart.
Then replaced the two seals on this one as well. Pay close attention to the orientation of the lips.
Then I had to re-install the rear support bushing. I popped it into the freezer a few days before assembly, then made a couple guide pins from some old bolts, lubed things up with some clean ATF and tapped it in with a rubber mallet.
Assembled the rear planetaries and the sunshell...
Then install the rear band and drum first, then slide it into the case....
Removed the wave ring and pulled things apart.
Then replaced the two seals on this one as well. Pay close attention to the orientation of the lips.
Then I had to re-install the rear support bushing. I popped it into the freezer a few days before assembly, then made a couple guide pins from some old bolts, lubed things up with some clean ATF and tapped it in with a rubber mallet.
Assembled the rear planetaries and the sunshell...
Then install the rear band and drum first, then slide it into the case....
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I had an old tupperware container from when we cleaned out my parents house....put it to good use soaking the clutches and bands.
Install the rear Governor...be careful installing the little clip(s) that go on the end of this little retaining shaft...I had a heck of a time getting them on. They went flying three or four times.
Then flip case so tailshaft is down....
Sorry here's the sunshell and tailshaft all installed...
Install the rear Governor...be careful installing the little clip(s) that go on the end of this little retaining shaft...I had a heck of a time getting them on. They went flying three or four times.
Then flip case so tailshaft is down....
Sorry here's the sunshell and tailshaft all installed...
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Put clutches and new plates in the front and rear assemblies....Take pics of how they come apart, so you put them back together the same way. Also clean teh plates with some solvent...they had stick crap all over them.
Each one finishes with a pressure plate...
Snap rings, or wave rings back in...
And this you can see it looks a little different the the earlier pic...more on this in a bit.
Then slide assemblies into place.
Each one finishes with a pressure plate...
Snap rings, or wave rings back in...
And this you can see it looks a little different the the earlier pic...more on this in a bit.
Then slide assemblies into place.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Then slip the forward band in over the drum and position it roughly.
Then pull apart, clean and replace seal rings on the servo pistons (?). This one was the toughest to get the snap ring into place. I had to use a C-clamp and a big tapered bolt to go over the center pin in the assembly so i could compress the spring enough to get the snap ring in place.
Then I disassembled the entire valve body assembly and cleaned it, then put it back together...
I had also installed the front pump assembly. I was pretty much ready to drop the valve body in and call it done, but it was diner time. So after diner I was relaxing for a few minutes before heading back out to the hot and humid garage. I was scrolling through my tear down pics and noticed I had assembled something wrong.
Then pull apart, clean and replace seal rings on the servo pistons (?). This one was the toughest to get the snap ring into place. I had to use a C-clamp and a big tapered bolt to go over the center pin in the assembly so i could compress the spring enough to get the snap ring in place.
Then I disassembled the entire valve body assembly and cleaned it, then put it back together...
I had also installed the front pump assembly. I was pretty much ready to drop the valve body in and call it done, but it was diner time. So after diner I was relaxing for a few minutes before heading back out to the hot and humid garage. I was scrolling through my tear down pics and noticed I had assembled something wrong.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
So what I had done wrong was install the outer planetary case incorrectly...remember the earlier pic that I said looked wrong...Yeah that was the outer planetary shell where is did not belong! SO apart came the tranny.
Here is the outer shell removed from it's incorrect position...
And the planetary assembly that should have the outer section "Under" it, not "over" it.
Wrong...
Correct...
Then it was re-assembly time...again.
Here is the outer shell removed from it's incorrect position...
And the planetary assembly that should have the outer section "Under" it, not "over" it.
Wrong...
Correct...
Then it was re-assembly time...again.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Went for a 30 minute drive and everything shifted perfectly, kick down worked, no issues at all. Then the car sat all week while I was working. one evening I replaced all the bearings and races in the front rotors (Timken) since there was a ton of play, and I could lock up the rotors from turning by putting 50/60lb/ft of torque on the outer axle nut! These are off shore drilled and slotted rotors that came with off shore bearings and races (AAM I think).
Anyway today I decided to go for a spin. Everything went well until I got home and was backing in the drive way. The whole reason I embarked on the tranny rebuild was because it seemed as though the torque converter was locking up at idle and trying to kill the motor while idling in gear. Well guess what happened when I pulled into the driveway....Yup same issue as before!
Anyway today I decided to go for a spin. Everything went well until I got home and was backing in the drive way. The whole reason I embarked on the tranny rebuild was because it seemed as though the torque converter was locking up at idle and trying to kill the motor while idling in gear. Well guess what happened when I pulled into the driveway....Yup same issue as before!
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Now I will try and describe what is going on. It only seems to happen when everything gets nice and hot. The car will surge like it wants to drive off, and the idle will drop for a second...seems like it's building too much pressure, then it releases and cycles again. It only gets more frequent and stalls longer, the longer the car idles. Eventually it will kill the motor!
The tranny cools through the rad first, then out to the air cooled cooler in front of the AC condenser, and back into the tranny. Been like this since I started driving the wagon...almost 10K miles since then with no issues until this year.
Here is a vid of the car surging...hard to make it out, but maybe someone has an idea on what's going on?
OK tried to upload vid twice...but wouldn't go.
I was talking with my friend and neighbour who's a old car guy (has a 63 Impala), and he was listening to it and couldn't believe the motor stalled! We were trying to figure out what might be going on. The torque converter is a reman unit...exactly the same as the OEM nit. Highly unlikely the reman unit would have the same problems and the old unit. Internal issue with the tranny, but all new parts and pieces...seems unlikely that it would still do it after the rebuild. Only thing not changed would be the valve body. Wonder if there could be something wrong/worn out in the valve body?
I have a small block 727 I snagged out of the wrecker many years ago, think from a 80's ram/van? I was thinking of swapping the valve body from this SB 727 unit into the wagons tranny and see if the problem persists...anything wrong with this idea?
The tranny cools through the rad first, then out to the air cooled cooler in front of the AC condenser, and back into the tranny. Been like this since I started driving the wagon...almost 10K miles since then with no issues until this year.
Here is a vid of the car surging...hard to make it out, but maybe someone has an idea on what's going on?
OK tried to upload vid twice...but wouldn't go.
I was talking with my friend and neighbour who's a old car guy (has a 63 Impala), and he was listening to it and couldn't believe the motor stalled! We were trying to figure out what might be going on. The torque converter is a reman unit...exactly the same as the OEM nit. Highly unlikely the reman unit would have the same problems and the old unit. Internal issue with the tranny, but all new parts and pieces...seems unlikely that it would still do it after the rebuild. Only thing not changed would be the valve body. Wonder if there could be something wrong/worn out in the valve body?
I have a small block 727 I snagged out of the wrecker many years ago, think from a 80's ram/van? I was thinking of swapping the valve body from this SB 727 unit into the wagons tranny and see if the problem persists...anything wrong with this idea?
thrashingcows
Senior Member
If I can't resolve the auto tranny I may very well convert the wagon to a 4 speed. I have pretty much everything to do it....well all the tough to find pieces C-body pedals, tunnel and Z-bar etc, that is. ;) Would need a bellhousing and pressure plate and stuff. I have a A833OD tranny to use as well.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Update....Just ran the tranny numbers...the SB 727 is from a 318 powered 86/87 B or D series truck/van with a non-lock up converter.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
Just finished reading all your issues in the last couple of posts, I am inclined to look at the fluid level in the transmission, I had this same problem once where the car actually locked up going down the road, and the rear wheels locked and i slid. It was the transmission fluid, I had overfilled it because I had the wrong dipstick in the tube, it was too short.
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