hilly101111111
New Member
I am going to rebuild the 727 out of my 73 New Yorker. Any recommendations on brand of rebuild kit ? Torque converter ect. Once the 440 is built I expect it to have 500 and 500 at the flywheel. Thoughts anyone ?
727 Torqueflite Rebuild Recommendations
- Thread starter hilly101111111
- Start date
B & M used to have the premier automatic transmission rebuild kits. Each kit could be built for "stock", "towing", or HD/Race, as I recall. To me, that might be the "safe choice", BUT . . . it seems that every transmission builder has their own "special mix" of certain brands of frictions (plates and band) types, best this, best that. So expect a wide range of recommendations.
IF you can find one of the old Direct Connection Race Manuals (as in 1000+ pages of it!), it has a section on how to modify TorqueFlites for high performance applicaitons. Including the reverse-pattern valve body.
Converter? Same thing. Main issues will include: rear axle and tire size, cam specs @.050", intake manifold, exhaust system, etc.
In general, shoot for a stall speed that is UNDER the cruise rpm at 55mph. This way, the converter will not be "loose" so less heat is generated, at that highway speed.
Remember, it is torque that burns the tires and horsepower that pushes the car through the wind at WOT. I know, everybody is focused on big power numbers, as if they are necessary to just drive to the store or impress people at cruise-ins. "Bragging rights", but if that "big power" engine will not scatter bat guano at the red light, not good, as people want to see a show, not anything less. PLUS, that "big power" only happens at very high rpm for a very short time. Torque happens at more normal rpms in everyday driving. Better to have a lower horsepower engine that "drives well" than an engine that is finicky, yet sounds radical.
Now, one year at Mopar Nats, I broke off and went to the cruise area before everybody else got there. I happened upon a man with a '69 Newport 2dr hardtop. Sinister not-shiny black with aftermarket wheels on it. We got to talking and he said he had a 440 with headers, the original Purple Shaft 292 cam, big carb and such. Had some wide tires on the back with a 4.30 rear axle. What made that car really JUMP was the 4.30 rear axle ratio. It was a seemingly lackluster combination that just worked. That was in the later 1980s.
So, if somebody asks how much power your 440 has, tell them ". . . Enuff . . ." Then, when you leave in a cloud of expensive rubber smoke, they can agree " . . . Enuff . . ."
THEN . . . learn to drive the car and have the chassis configured/calibrated to handle the power produced, without looking like you are still learning to drive it.
Have fun,
CBODY67
IF you can find one of the old Direct Connection Race Manuals (as in 1000+ pages of it!), it has a section on how to modify TorqueFlites for high performance applicaitons. Including the reverse-pattern valve body.
Converter? Same thing. Main issues will include: rear axle and tire size, cam specs @.050", intake manifold, exhaust system, etc.
In general, shoot for a stall speed that is UNDER the cruise rpm at 55mph. This way, the converter will not be "loose" so less heat is generated, at that highway speed.
Remember, it is torque that burns the tires and horsepower that pushes the car through the wind at WOT. I know, everybody is focused on big power numbers, as if they are necessary to just drive to the store or impress people at cruise-ins. "Bragging rights", but if that "big power" engine will not scatter bat guano at the red light, not good, as people want to see a show, not anything less. PLUS, that "big power" only happens at very high rpm for a very short time. Torque happens at more normal rpms in everyday driving. Better to have a lower horsepower engine that "drives well" than an engine that is finicky, yet sounds radical.
Now, one year at Mopar Nats, I broke off and went to the cruise area before everybody else got there. I happened upon a man with a '69 Newport 2dr hardtop. Sinister not-shiny black with aftermarket wheels on it. We got to talking and he said he had a 440 with headers, the original Purple Shaft 292 cam, big carb and such. Had some wide tires on the back with a 4.30 rear axle. What made that car really JUMP was the 4.30 rear axle ratio. It was a seemingly lackluster combination that just worked. That was in the later 1980s.
So, if somebody asks how much power your 440 has, tell them ". . . Enuff . . ." Then, when you leave in a cloud of expensive rubber smoke, they can agree " . . . Enuff . . ."
THEN . . . learn to drive the car and have the chassis configured/calibrated to handle the power produced, without looking like you are still learning to drive it.
Have fun,
CBODY67
BrooklynBeer
New Member
There is a good 11 part rebuild series on YouTube, get the 727 rebuild manual as it will have all the tolerances, clearances, and specs. Most internals are done in inch pounds , not foot pounds. You are going to want to put in a bolt in sprag and change to a billet drum. 500 HP requires it or you could lose some toes if the sprag explodes. Hemi's had 5 friction disc's so you are going to need to replace the pressure plate with a cut one to get the snap ring and 5 steels and 5 clutches in. Most likely a new snap ring to get the clearances. They come in 5 sizes. You will need special tools to rebuild. Inch pnd torque wrench, circlip pliers, pressure plate spring compressor, different offset snap ring pliers, offset feeler gauges, lip seal tool. Assembly lube for transmissions. But get these manuals and read them 20 times over before taking it apart. They have great pictures, total and full part to part diagrams, and every number you need from torque specs to clearance. Put every part in a labeled plastic bag as you go. Take many pictures before doing anything and make notes. It is not hard to rebuild and it will be fine if you don't cut corners on the seals and the clearances of the steels and clutches. You can get different thickness steels and clutches to get the clearances you require. I just did one in my 70 D200. Great thing is that you airtest all th functions before installing back in the car.
BrooklynBeer
New Member
I like Trans parts warehouse. A kit like this is cheaper then part by part but you will need to most likely call and explain to them your wants with 500 HP and wanting to go to 5 clutches. Some specialty parts can be found at COPES. he makes his own billet drums. But the bolt in sprag is going to be a requirement with 500 HP and NEVER do burnouts in first gear with a 727. main cause of sprag explosions. https://transpartswarehouse.com/028...-kolene-transmission-rebuild-kit-1971-on.html
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