727 transmission with an ear or knob at the side? Help

Might be a bit of a stretch here, your limited slip rear end may be a culprit as well. My 77 NYB had the same issue, thought it was a transmission, had a rebuilt and problem was still there. turns out the carrier in the rear end is going bad. When I put the car in drive or reverse it didn’t moved until you give it a hard acceleration. I’m replacing the 9.25..

Just my 2 cents.
 
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Fluid check is done with engine running and trans in neutral. Consult the FSM for adjustment.
Don't have an FSM (factory service manual)? Download one here: My
No i used the one th
Did u happen to change the torque converter? Kim
at wa
Might be a bit of a stretch here, your limited slip rear end may be a culprit as well. My 77 NYB had the same issue, thought it was a transmission, had a rebuilt and problem was still there. turns out the carrier in the rear end is going bad. When I put the car in drive or reverse it didn’t moved until you give it a hard acceleration. I’m replacing the 9.25..

Just my 2 cents.
Thats a good one. I am focused on the tranny but it might be what you say as well. Thanks a lot, will look into that as well. As said earlier it is a sort of desert car that i saved and got plenty to do but i enjoy working on it. Wouldnt come up with this myself
 
Starting point:
Reemphasize linkage connected and properly adjusted
Fluid level at full (NOT ABOVE FULL) when engine warm, trans in Neutral.

Overfilling transmission adversely affects valve body and can cause leakages, etc
 
With the cable shift transmissions you have two cables, one for shifting from neutral, drive, 2nd & 1st and one cable for park. the shift cable could be broken or unhooked inside the trans but your park cable could be working fine. So the car shifts out of park but isn't shifting to any gears.

First thing is make sure the fluid is correct level. Then check the shift cable. All the pics below are from the 65 service manual.

1659360304445.png


Because the shift cable is attached inside the transmission at one end and the steering column at the other sometimes it is bard to tell is the shift cable is moving anything. If you move the shift lever from 1st to 2nd to drive does it feel really loose or does it feel like it is moving something?

This pic shows cable attached at the steering column and at the transmission. Lok at the adjustment section below to see how to verify the cable is connected, moving correctly and adjusted.

1659359777481.png
1659359842606.png

1659359969727.png
1659360010105.png
 
65 was first year for slip yoke and last year for cable shift.
66 and newer 727 have a different number of splines on the input shaft.
This broadens your choices of torque convertors and less expensive vs 65 and older 727's.
The 67 trans you have needs mechanical shift rods.
If you want to use the 67 trans you need to swap out the 65 steering column for a 66 column and all related shift linkages.
Or if console shifted, 66 and newer console and related shifter hardware.
But first diagnose your current trans isssue.
Hope this helps.
67 and newer is the breakdown on input shaft splines, not 66. 66 is technically a 1-year trans also, but that doesn't get the fanfare that a 65 does.
Starting point:
Reemphasize linkage connected and properly adjusted
Fluid level at full (NOT ABOVE FULL) when engine warm, trans in Neutral.

Overfilling transmission adversely affects valve body and can cause leakages, etc
Overfilling a trans can cause the fluid level to rise into the rotating parts, which aerates the fluid. Aerated fluid cannot activate hydraulic items properly (the air in the fluid must be compressed) and the air bubbles also do not lubricate nor cool vs non-aerated fluid.

Also, fluid expands when hot, so overfilling when cold is a double-whammy.
 
1964 and earlier TFs were cable controlled, but used pushbuttons on the instrument panel to select the gears. 1965 was the first US Federal mandate that all makers used a "common shifter and shift quadrant" orientation on their vehicles. Which meant the end of Chrysler's famous (post 1955) "pushbuttron drive"on non-floor shift TF-equipped vehicles, Ford's Cruise-O-Matic "D1 and D2", AND the end of GM's shift quadrant which had "R" next to "L". This shift quardrant conformity had been identified as necessary to prevent traffic accidents should somebody get into a strange vehicle and not knowing which gear was where could cause problems.

Chrysler's using a more simple cable rather than the later hard linkage in '65 was a transition into the legislated set-up. So, "one year only". As the internals had incremental changes.

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
Also the last year for the rear pump, which meant you could push start the car.
 
Hi Guys,

I have a 65 NYer and I need to replace the transmission. Since it is hard to get parts here in The Netherlands I only have the choice of 1 transmission that is for sale.
In my car there was originally a 413 but since i bought it what an stuck engine i replaced it with a 1967 440.

That transmission has a sort of knob on the side while other transmissions have an ear on that same spot.
Can somebody tell me what the difference is?

View attachment 547748

View attachment 547749
what motor do u have? y not just have the trany rebuilt? y replace the entire tans?
 
67 and newer is the breakdown on input shaft splines, not 66. 66 is technically a 1-year trans also, but that doesn't get the fanfare that a 65 does.

Overfilling a trans can cause the fluid level to rise into the rotating parts, which aerates the fluid. Aerated fluid cannot activate hydraulic items properly (the air in the fluid must be compressed) and the air bubbles also do not lubricate nor cool vs non-aerated fluid.

Also, fluid expands when hot, so overfilling when cold is a double-whammy.
Thanks! I learn everyday. Great that so many react. Brings me forwards.
 
Starting point:
Reemphasize linkage connected and properly adjusted
Fluid level at full (NOT ABOVE FULL) when engine warm, trans in Neutral.

Overfilling transmission adversely affects valve body and can cause leakages, etc
Yes thank you, that is where i am going to start. Linkage and oil.
 
With the cable shift transmissions you have two cables, one for shifting from neutral, drive, 2nd & 1st and one cable for park. the shift cable could be broken or unhooked inside the trans but your park cable could be working fine. So the car shifts out of park but isn't shifting to any gears.

First thing is make sure the fluid is correct level. Then check the shift cable. All the pics below are from the 65 service manual.

View attachment 548085

Because the shift cable is attached inside the transmission at one end and the steering column at the other sometimes it is bard to tell is the shift cable is moving anything. If you move the shift lever from 1st to 2nd to drive does it feel really loose or does it feel like it is moving something?

This pic shows cable attached at the steering column and at the transmission. Lok at the adjustment section below to see how to verify the cable is connected, moving correctly and adjusted.

View attachment 548081 View attachment 548082
View attachment 548083View attachment 548084
Thanks for the upload of the 65 manual. I will have a look at the linkage and the oil level.
 
With the cable shift transmissions you have two cables, one for shifting from neutral, drive, 2nd & 1st and one cable for park. the shift cable could be broken or unhooked inside the trans but your park cable could be working fine. So the car shifts out of park but isn't shifting to any gears.

First thing is make sure the fluid is correct level. Then check the shift cable. All the pics below are from the 65 service manual.

View attachment 548085

Because the shift cable is attached inside the transmission at one end and the steering column at the other sometimes it is bard to tell is the shift cable is moving anything. If you move the shift lever from 1st to 2nd to drive does it feel really loose or does it feel like it is moving something?

This pic shows cable attached at the steering column and at the transmission. Lok at the adjustment section below to see how to verify the cable is connected, moving correctly and adjusted.

View attachment 548081 View attachment 548082
View attachment 548083View attachment 548084
Put the rear axle on jack stands. Start the engine with it full of fluid and observe the rear drive shaft as you go through the gears. If it does not turn it's something in the linkage or transmission itself. If it does turnand the wheels do nothing it's likely the differential. A differential so bad it doesn't turn the wheels is not that likely. Looking at these service manual photos it's probably the cable not connected correctly. My money is on that.
 
Also the last year for the rear pump, which meant you could push start the car.
And also flat-tow it or tow it by the front without removing the driveshaft (if it has enough fluid in it, anyways).

I have a cableshift AT in one of my cars. I really should try to push-start it sometime. Get the Dads from the cul-de-sac and see if we can get it push-started before we hit the next street. :wideyed:
 
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