77 Chrysler Newport/ throttle spring thing(first car)

[NewportLover77]

Do you know where I can find an alternative? This spring from the previous owner seems like they bought it from a hardware store. It's extremely stiff.

Also tidbit, I can't figure out why it didn't start today ? I started it about 5 days ago, I wanted to warm it up. I let it warm then turned it off. Then today, it just wouldn't start, I had gas. I'm not sure if I flooded it? (Not a lot of info, just wasn't sure if I did something stupid and obvious I overlooked).

 

[CBODY67]

Yep, not a factory spring. There should be some repro parts vendors that have the throttle return spring for a B-body car with a B/RB engine, I suspect.

As to "flooding", unless you kept pumping the accel pedal with each "try to start" cycle, there might have been a bit too much fuel in the intake manifold plenum. IF you suspect the engine is flooded, just floor and hold the accel pedal as you start the car. When the engine starts, release the accel pedal immediately. Flooring the accel pedal in this situation mechanically opens the automatic choke and also allows more air into the intake manifold so any over-richness can be "flushed" out with air.

As a general rule of thumb, hold the accel pedal about 1/3 to 1/2 open to start the car. You can learn what it likes best to start quickly and easily. Minimize "pumping" the accel pedal, too. Hold it steady.

How new are the spark plugs and where is the ignition timing adjusted to?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[NewportLover77]

Yep, not a factory spring. There should be some repro parts vendors that have the throttle return spring for a B-body car with a B/RB engine, I suspect.

As to "flooding", unless you kept pumping the accel pedal with each "try to start" cycle, there might have been a bit too much fuel in the intake manifold plenum. IF you suspect the engine is flooded, just floor and hold the accel pedal as you start the car. When the engine starts, release the accel pedal immediately. Flooring the accel pedal in this situation mechanically opens the automatic choke and also allows more air into the intake manifold so any over-richness can be "flushed" out with air.

As a general rule of thumb, hold the accel pedal about 1/3 to 1/2 open to start the car. You can learn what it likes best to start quickly and easily. Minimize "pumping" the accel pedal, too. Hold it steady.

How new are the spark plugs and where is the ignition timing adjusted to?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Wow, I didn’t even think about that! I haven’t changed the spark plugs yet, so based on what the previous owner told me, they could be around 10-15 years old. It was sitting since 2011. That’s definitely something I need to take care of.


As for the ignition timing, I had planned to address it, but this new issue popped up. I haven't been able to get to it. It’s all a bit clearer now. Thank you. I'll try what you said about the pedal, I've been very cautious when cranking. 1. Because my battery sucks(it's new) 2. I always see videos of people just burning the crap out of it cranking it forever until it starts. I try to do short turns.

Thank you

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the additional information.

A "new" battery certainly is "new", but that does NOT mean it is fully charged sitting there on the shelf at where ever it is being sold. When a battery is sold as "new", it only has about 60% or so of full charge. Plenty enough to start a car decently well, but not to the full-rated charge and ultimate voltage. Once in the car, the car's charging system takes over and charges the battery to full charge over time. So perhaps you need to use a quality self-regulating battery charger to get the battery to its fully-charged state.

Also, use a wire brush battery terminal cleaner to clean BOTH the inside of the battery cable ends and the battery terminals themselves. What might look "good enough" can ultimately take out about 10% of battery capacity, by observation.

I am presuming you have also changed the engine oil and oil filter after getting the car re-awakened?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Sport Fury 67]

Here is a link to Van's Auto. They sell Mopar parts, you have to look around for items that are for our C-Bodies.

The "correct" spring is similar to the 1969 Big Block 4-Barrel, Throttle Return Spring – Correct 45 Coil Gray – CHZENG007 - assuming you have a 400 or 440 engine.

You searched for throttle return spring - Vans Auto


Another source for parts is Rock Auto

Fuel & Air > Carburetor > Carburetor Return Spring | Shop Now at RockAuto


Let us know how it goes.

 

[Sport Fury 67]

There are some at Service Manuals – MyMopar

Unfortunately they don't go past 1973. I would suggest obtaining a used one from eBay or in the for sale / wanted area of this group, or a digital copy.

One other method is to conduct a Google search for your car and look at engine bay photos that are posted to get an idea of how it should look, or for the same year C-Bodies as your car with the same size engine.

 

[Big_John]

Do you know where I can find an alternative? This spring from the previous owner seems like they bought it from a hardware store. It's extremely stiff.

Also tidbit, I can't figure out why it didn't start today ? I started it about 5 days ago, I wanted to warm it up. I let it warm then turned it off. Then today, it just wouldn't start, I had gas. I'm not sure if I flooded it? (Not a lot of info, just wasn't sure if I did something stupid and obvious I overlooked).

View attachment 714756

You've got a couple problems going on. The return spring you've circled is attached to the carb incorrectly. Putting it in the correct spot will lower the force needed.

It should connect to the piece with the white arrow. A better spring will help too.

That's shown in this illustration.

Then there's the throttle linkage to the trans (mistakenly called "kickdown" by many). That would be the orange arrow. This is how it should look.

 

[Sport Fury 67]

If you remove the air cleaner and take a few additional photographs, that can be helpful. With this era of car, the factory carb and lean burn system were replaced with an after market carb, typically an Edlebrock brand. There is a bit of tweaking to get the factory cables - parts aligned when you swap out the carb.

 

[NewportLover77]

If you remove the air cleaner and take a few additional photographs, that can be helpful. With this era of car, the factory carb and lean burn system were replaced with an after market carb, typically an Edlebrock brand. There is a bit of tweaking to get the factory cables - parts aligned when you swap out the carb.

My apologies for the screenshot. The file size was too big.

 

[NewportLover77]

If you remove the air cleaner and take a few additional photographs, that can be helpful. With this era of car, the factory carb and lean burn system were replaced with an after market carb, typically an Edlebrock brand. There is a bit of tweaking to get the factory cables - parts aligned when you swap out the carb.

 

[NewportLover77]

Thanks for the additional information.

A "new" battery certainly is "new", but that does NOT mean it is fully charged sitting there on the shelf at where ever it is being sold. When a battery is sold as "new", it only has about 60% or so of full charge. Plenty enough to start a car decently well, but not to the full-rated charge and ultimate voltage. Once in the car, the car's charging system takes over and charges the battery to full charge over time. So perhaps you need to use a quality self-regulating battery charger to get the battery to its fully-charged state.

Also, use a wire brush battery terminal cleaner to clean BOTH the inside of the battery cable ends and the battery terminals themselves. What might look "good enough" can ultimately take out about 10% of battery capacity, by observation.

I am presuming you have also changed the engine oil and oil filter after getting the car re-awakened?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

I always disconnect the battery after running it. I did try to charge the battery but it gave very little charge. (Battery is from 23). I definitely scraped all the crap off from the old battery that was there.

I did change the oil and oil filter.

 

[NewportLover77]

You've got a couple problems going on. The return spring you've circled is attached to the carb incorrectly. Putting it in the correct spot will lower the force needed.

It should connect to the piece with the white arrow. A better spring will help too.

View attachment 714771

That's shown in this illustration.


View attachment 714776

Then there's the throttle linkage to the trans (mistakenly called "kickdown" by many). That would be the orange arrow. This is how it should look.


View attachment 714775

Thank you,

Yeah, there is a lot of unconventional pieces that were added.



An example of some pieces

 

[Big_John]

Thank you,

Yeah, there is a lot of unconventional pieces that were added.



An example of some pieces

View attachment 714840

LOL. I had a ball valve on one of mine.

That fuel line really bothers me though. Too much rubber hose and its routing leaves something to be desired. A small fuel leak would squirt gas all over the exhaust manifolds. I also have a preference for metal cased fuel filters because they don't melt in a small fire, but that's just a personal preference.

 

[CBODY67]

As for the fuel line, go into one of the Mopar repro websites or Fine Lines and get a fuel line for a 1970 Dodge Monaco 383 4bbl (Carter AVS carburetored) car. That will get you the pre-bent metal line from the back of the carb to the front of the engine, where it can connect to the factory fuel filter location, near the fuel pump and front of the engine. That will get the fuel line and fuel filter issues taken care of.

As to the heater water valve, does the heater core leak?

Whether the factory water valve works off of vacuum or a cable, there are many variations of inline valves (other than what Chrysler used) which can be used.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[NewportLover77]

LOL. I had a ball valve on one of mine.

That fuel line really bothers me though. Too much rubber hose and its routing leaves something to be desired. A small fuel leak would squirt gas all over the exhaust manifolds. I also have a preference for metal cased fuel filters because they don't melt in a small fire, but that's just a personal preference.

For the fuel filter, I Learned it the hard way. Not more so in that way but, it just broke. Started pouring a bunch of crap out. I had to do a complete rebuild of the carb. (With some help).

I had to order a different, one out of metal.

 

[NewportLover77]

As for the fuel line, go into one of the Mopar repro websites or Fine Lines and get a fuel line for a 1970 Dodge Monaco 383 4bbl (Carter AVS carburetored) car. That will get you the pre-bent metal line from the back of the carb to the front of the engine, where it can connect to the factory fuel filter location, near the fuel pump and front of the engine. That will get the fuel line and fuel filter issues taken care of.

As to the heater water valve, does the heater core leak?

Whether the factory water valve works off of vacuum or a cable, there are many variations of inline valves (other than what Chrysler used) which can be used.

Take care,
CBODY67

Thank you! When I did check to see if it actually was pumping gas through, it seemed to do ok. No real fuel problems (yet).

I haven't tried using the heater, I'm not sure if it leaks or anything of that. It's not very cold here, so I didn't bother. Same with the air-conditioning. I did accidentally turn the fan on, it does work.

 

[JimmyG]

Regarding the return spring, just a reminder that many of them were the double spring (mid-70's) with a smaller one inside the larger one, as opposed to the single one from the previous generations. Both ended up hooked on to the throttle stud. These are also available as they fit "B" bodies too. They have a reasonable pedal pressure. Having had one let go as I was "motoring briskly" past a puttering fool, two springs would have seriously reduced my white knuckle moment of uncontrolled full throttle acceleration. I was young. Happy motoring.