Regarding the Green bearing; did you keep the axle tube seals? I have the kit and it didn't come with the axle tube seals ... i'm thinking they are not needed and have read that sometimes they are even in the way.
If your thrust button fell out, that means you had the clutch type SG and not the cone type. The thrust button in the cone type is trapped by the differential itself but not so with the clutch type....but I like to pull them out of both types. I've built several complete rear ends over the years using the Green bearings and never installed the factory axle seals. I also would think that if the thrust button 'pin' broke because the setting was too tight, it remained in place until one of the axles was pulled but I don't trust that to be a fact.
the center section I was referring to in my reply to Darby's comments is an open rear 741 case that still has the spacer/thrust block. Going to green bearing so i want to remove that piece. I don't have it apart yet just wondering how that comes out. Thanks!
I pressed the bearings on and that was it, no extra seals or doing anything to the gear set. I don’t see that I’ll go back to stock bearings and seals. I’m using a Yukon Power Lock carrier with the stock 3.32 gears.
You pull the spider gear shaft out and that will free the thrust spacer. You may have to remove the ring gear to get that spider gear shaft out. There's a cotter pin that needs to be driven out before the shaft can be removed. Once the cotter pin is out, take a drift and tap the shaft on both ends to help unstick it. There's what looks like a screw driver slot on one end of the shaft but don't remember if it unscrews or pushes out. Been way too many years since taking one apart.
