I've had three of these cars. The first one I converted to carb when I was 17. It's not hard. Remove EFI components. Install conventional distributor, carb and intake. Find ign. hot and start wires. Wire up the 4-wire connector to standard electronic box, one is start feed, one is coil. 50% of the wiring just goes to the distributor! Seriously this isn't hard. Just disconnect all the EFI wiring. You need not remove it.
That solves your spark. You can draw through the in-tank pump, but you should probably drop the tank and at least make sure the filters are clean. Just wire a low-pressure electric pump the same way you would any other carb/elect. pump car.
There is no black magic on the dash. The swap just gave you a different calibration to make the "mile per gallon/miles till empty" gadgets work. The digital gauge works as normal, just a regular sending unit. The speedo runs from a mechanical speed sensor. Nothing changes. Everything else is an idiot light.
All of this said, I only suggest this hackery to save the car. It's not impossible to make the system work. My second car kept the EF
M. The pump plate is the only real tough part. The problem most people have with these cars is that there is no tolerance for vacuum leaks (or variances in air/fuel mix). It doesn't know how to deal with that, which is why it won't run without the air cleaner lid tight, and it's why they often run better with the o2 sensor disconnected. It defaults to "open loop" mode which is fuel-rich.
Here's my third example, which I sold a few years back. I might have kept it if the EFM was still on it... To me that's part of the character of the car.