A/C Compressor Clutch Seal Replacement

[volksworld]

the Original Air video shows you just enough to be dangerous...fails to mention marking rod caps so they go back together the same way....putting pump rotor back the same way it came out...completely screws up the description of how the oiling system works...doesn't address crank, front bearing or seal etc etc....

 

[Prusakowski]

No good deed goes unpunished....

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Compressor rebuild video

Thanks for giving us that vid link, but he never showed any rod or oil rotor wear, the reed valves were fine, and I guess his point is what to look for during disassembly not knowing what would be the condition of that core. But the most important, difficult and frequent repair is the damn ceramic seal and he never mentioned or touched that. Strange.

So you're still being punished! No, seriously....thanks for finding that vid.

 

[volksworld]

think OA did that video not to actually show anyone how to rebuild their own...but more of a " pay us to rebuild yours ,they're complicated but we know what we're doing " or," before you pay to ship us a boat anchor, here's how to tell if it stands a chance of being a rebuildable core"

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

think OA did that video not to actually show anyone how to rebuild their own...but more of a " pay us to rebuild yours ,they're complicated but we know what we're doing " or," before you pay to ship us a boat anchor, here's how to tell if it stands a chance of being rebuildable core"

Good point. OA doesn't really want to help "us" rebuild our own compressor. This was a promotional vid for business.

However, they could have really terrified us with talk about properly installing the two types of RV2 ceramic seals.

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

Good point. OA doesn't really want to help "us" rebuild our own compressor. This was a promotional vid for business.

However, they could have really terrified us with talk about properly installing the two types of RV2 ceramic seals.

And the dont sell the reseal kit anoymore.

I like this mastertech vid:

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

And the dont sell the reseal kit anoymore.

I like this mastertech vid:

That's is certainly a good vid. Tack själv!

 

[RS23VOA]

Compressor rebuild video

Thanks!! Picked up another car that as a bad bearing in the compressor so this is timely.

 

[RS23VOA]

And the dont sell the reseal kit anoymore.

I like this mastertech vid:

That's a good video. Thanks for posting it.

 

[volksworld]

ok...few observations on Santech vs Mopar seals...the bearing side of the Mopar seal has radial grooves in it...the crank has an oil hole in front of the bearing that squirts oil to lube the bearing and seal when the crank aligns with a slot in the rear bushing...the Santech seal is solid on the back and will block this hole...but here's my main issue...the body of the Mopar seal has a rubber sleeve inside it that seals to the crank...this sleeve has a flange on both ends to hold it inside the housing...and the back side of the carbon seal ring sits on this rubber flange and seals to it. Now, the Santech sleeve only has a flange on one side...the bearing side, as it is comes assembled. So, the back of the carbon seal just sits on the metal housing and is not sealed to it...It appears that if the spring loaded housing is compressed far enough the end of the rubber sleeve will probably contact the back of the carbon seal...but that didn't happen on my compressor and it leaked ...a lot...fortunately while bench testing, not on the car...NOS crank, yes the thrust shim was in there...maybe the front housing piece machined too deep? IDK but it was cured by the NOS seal that came with the crank that I had absolutely no intention of using (seal surface was excellent, thankfully)

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

ok...few observations on Santech vs Mopar seals...the bearing side of the Mopar seal has radial grooves in it...the crank has an oil hole in front of the bearing that squirts oil to lube the bearing and seal when the crank aligns with a slot in the rear bushing...the Santech seal is solid on the back and will block this hole...but here's my main issue...the body of the Mopar seal has a rubber sleeve inside it that seals to the crank...this sleeve has a flange on both ends to hold it inside the housing...and the back side of the carbon seal ring sits on this rubber flange and seals to it. Now, the Santech sleeve only has a flange on one side...the bearing side, as it is comes assembled. So, the back of the carbon seal just sits on the metal housing and is not sealed to it...It appears that if the spring loaded housing is compressed far enough the end of the rubber sleeve will probably contact the back of the carbon seal...but that didn't happen on my compressor and it leaked ...a lot...fortunately while bench testing, not on the car...NOS crank, yes the thrust shim was in there...maybe the front housing piece machined too deep? IDK but it was cured by the NOS seal that came with the crank that I had absolutely no intention of using (seal surface was excellent, thankfully)

Outstanding observations, and that probably explains my repeated issues with the Santech kit. I once had an NORS Mopar seal kit, but because it was decades old, the mirror surface that the ceramic rides on was rusted....moisture coming through the cardboard on the back of the packaging.

 

[volksworld]

ouch...that's quite a seal collection...for what its worth it looks like you could use the polished Santech front piece with the rest of the original Mopar seal...they were within a couple thousandths of the same thickness...oh and the perfect tool to drive in that front piece is a 1 inch PVC pipe coupling