A903 to A833 Conversion?

Fairly certain your bellhousing is a no go because the trans bolt pattern is different & they did not use the dual pattern in 1966 units. Existing clutch/ pressure plate should be good. The aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus for B bodies would work fine. Driveshaft should probably be OK. Floor plate that looks respectable will be a challenge to source or fabricate. Z-bar & hardware may be OK but may need some work. Personally I'd leave the 3-speed but to each his own.
 
OK my thoughts and ideas on your car...I think since your car has been modified already the loss of the column shift really isn't that big of a deal, I do agree with keeping all the original 3 speed parts, column, transmission and any other parts that don't make it through the conversion.

@rd92west posted a thread up with pics on how he converted a 66-69 B-body trans floor hump to work on a 66-68 C-body....much easier and cheaper than trying to find an original C-body 4spd hump IMO.

66 to 68 trans hump

Shifter well that's your choice I prefer an original feel so would try and find a bench seat inland shifter and then convert it on the bottom end to work with a hurst shifter mechanism on your A833.

As for clutch and bell housing I would figure out what size clutch you have...most likely a 10" or 11", then search for a 4 spd bell housing that will work with the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch you already have...of course the clutch usage depends on the spline count, but the other parts should be usable. Also you should know that there are a few different size bearing retainers used on 4 spds and you will need to get the correct bell housing to work with your A833.

Clutch linkage should be a pretty straight forward conversion and other than maybe a new or custom length pushrod to the throw out bearing arm it should be straight forward.
 
He already has a manual transmission. Why should he have to modify the floor. If there is any interference at all he could just tap it from underneath. I would go with the Hurst all the way. I've had Inland shifters and I think they are too sloppy complete and why bother modifying the Hurst. With the piece on the transmission the Hurst bolts right to the transmission and he would just have to screw a boot on the floor.
 
One thing I keep failing to mention to everyone regarding the interior for everyone opting towards keeping it as stock as possible for rarity sake is that it has already been modified with power seats from a late 90s GM (which shockingly enough fit very well and are quite comfy) and it does in fact have the factory carpet in great shape but the previous owner laid some house carpet over it to protect it (which personally I am a fan of it reminds me of the Big Lebowski) but the dash pad isn't there to hide anything it has absolutely 0 cracks under there

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I made my comment about "novelty" knowing full well the car had a lot of custom touches. As I said, I do remember seeing this car here.

Since it's kind of a throwback to earlier custom cars, the 3 on the tree fits. If you look at any of the Kustoms and lead sleds of the 50's, you won't see a floor shift in anything except a hot rod.

At the end of the day, it's your car. Do what you want, but keep the old stuff.
 
He already has a manual transmission. Why should he have to modify the floor. If there is any interference at all he could just tap it from underneath. I would go with the Hurst all the way. I've had Inland shifters and I think they are too sloppy complete and why bother modifying the Hurst. With the piece on the transmission the Hurst bolts right to the transmission and he would just have to screw a boot on the floor.

He has to modify the floor because with 3 on the tree it did not have to clear a floor shift mechanism, that is why 4spd cars, A,B,C,E-body have a hump on the floor.

As for shifter I never said t modify a hurst mechanism or shifter...I said to utilize the top portion of the inland shifter to retain an OEM look BUT to modify the lower portion of the inland shifter so that it will bolt up to a newer more efficient hurst shift mechanism. Not terribly difficult to do.
 
and of coarse the floor hump.

. Z-bar & hardware may be OK but may need some work
Z bar absolutely has to be reworked. Length and clocking of arm are different.
Big issue is bell housing. There are
many 4 spd housings. Ea. with a different ż bar mounting location. Check parts book for # for your application.


 
When I did my 66 polara I used a z bar and linkage from a 3 speed car. Fit perfect. A slant 6 z bar is longer than a v8. It is clocked correctly, but the pipe needs to be shortened. 69 to 72 z bars are clocked differently
I got a used bell from brewers as well as a clutch fork to match the bell.
Auto trans driveshaft was correct length.
Brewers sold me a b body Hurst comp plus shifter.
I don't have a console.
I didn't like the handle or I guess the bends in the handle.. By some fluke I saw a C body handle on shifter doc or shift doc Hurst site. Now I am happy.
 
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i'm doing a auto to a833 swap in my 65 dodge 880 , grabbed the parts required from another c body , the floor hump and bell with clutch linkage was a must for me . here is a pic of the stuff needed .

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and don't forget there is an adapter for the shifter mount . and 66 up trans will work , but in 70 there is two mounts on the tail stock for shifters and the mount for the trans has changed it position on the tail stock . note the top trans is a od but has the 70 up mounts , and the third one down is a 66 to 69 b or c body type . not sure of your driveline length or your front slip yoke . but just for your info the bell housing to the end of the tail stock of the a833 b and c and e body are the same as a 727 auto . and note the shift levers on this trans 1-2 are not like 3-4 . it's an od trans with a alloy case , not sure you want that type a833 .

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I know from personal experience, you won't have any problem finding the drive shaft (if it is different from the 3 speed) the A833 and the A727 uses the same driveshaft. Any A727 automatic driveshaft will work.
My $.02
 
and note the shift levers on this trans 1-2 are not like 3-4 .
the o.d. unit is what i have in the '69. the lever is upside down to select direct drive as third gear. they build it with the o.d. gear where third would normally be. with an o.d. box the input and output shaft turn at different speeds. these boxes were engineered to be driven with shafts locked in direct drive. with o.d. the bearings that connect the shafts turn constantly. they wear badly and the male ended shaft fails.
 
. these boxes were engineered to be driven with shafts locked in direct drive. with o.d. the bearings that connect the shafts turn constantly. they wear badly and the male ended shaft fails.
They also have a annoying howl in overdrive.
 
I had a 1964 Dart slant 6 factory 4-speed hurst shifter The slant 6 had a rod out the side of the block when I bought it, and I had a rusty 1965 belvedere with 273 3 speed manual I wanted to take the 273 with manual bell housing and put it in the Dart and the bell would not mount up to the dart 4-speed I had to purchase a bell housing flywheel clutch and pressure plate. Brewers may know if it will mate up I would contact them
 
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