darth_linux
Senior Member
My '66 Newport was not ordered with 4 way flashers. How difficult is it to retrofit them to the car? I imagine sourcing the dash switch would be the hardest part . . . thanks!
Adding 4 way hazard flashers - how difficult?
- Thread starter darth_linux
- Start date
You could find an NORS flasher kit like these. Possibly cheaper than sourcing a correct switch and it would be "period correct" as a lot of guys fitted these to their cars back in the 60's.
NOS Roberk #800 4-Way Emergency Hazard Flasher Chrome 12 Volt | eBay
NEW VINTAGE 1950'S-1960'S SIGNAL-STAT 4 WAY 12 VOLT FLASHER CHEVY+FORD+MOPAR | eBay
NOS Roberk #800 4-Way Emergency Hazard Flasher Chrome 12 Volt | eBay
NEW VINTAGE 1950'S-1960'S SIGNAL-STAT 4 WAY 12 VOLT FLASHER CHEVY+FORD+MOPAR | eBay
Another option, maybe not so vintage, is to build a simple circuit around a 4PDT relay and a flasher, would make switch selection easier, could be controlled from a much wider variety of single throw switches as opposed to trying to find something purpose made and 60+years old.
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darth_linux
Senior Member
I found the switch and the bezel on Hiltop Auto Parts, for those who want to add OEM parts to their car. Not cheap!
Switch - NOS Mopar 1966 All Models Emergency Flasher switch exc Plymouth B body
Bezel - NOS Mopar 1966 All Models Emergency Flasher bezel
Entire Kit - NOS Mopar 1966 All Models Emergency Flasher Package exc Plymouth B body
Switch - NOS Mopar 1966 All Models Emergency Flasher switch exc Plymouth B body
Bezel - NOS Mopar 1966 All Models Emergency Flasher bezel
Entire Kit - NOS Mopar 1966 All Models Emergency Flasher Package exc Plymouth B body
May want to check with Tom@RocketResto.com here in Washington state, he recently acquired Len Dawson’s Deception Pass Motor Parts inventory (very large NOS Chrysler parts collection), see if he has that part number (2770311) in stock.
darth_linux
Senior Member
Thanks! Any chance you're going to the Sunburst Mopar show in Graham on August 17?
@tallzag , of Rocket Resto, is a member here.
Actually, a very good chance at the moment, it is currently penciled in on my calendar, so far, no conflicts. I used to participate in Sunburst fairly regularly when I was more actively showing, it’s been a few years.
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darth_linux
Senior Member
I won't be showing any cars, but I'll be there just to look around. I'll PM you when the date approaches and check in with a time frame. Hope to see you there.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
In 68 all they did was tie these four items.
1. Brake feed to the column
2. Hazard Flasher (pre ignition)
3. Front left turn from the column
4. Front right turn from the column.
A single throw 4 pole switch will work.
One side of the switch, tie all four poles together, the other side the four items.
The factory split the wires at the switch, so each of the 4 items had two wires. You could use a tap on each circuit and run one wire from each to the switch.
The switch does not interrupt the other wires or functions, it just overrides them. (if you push the brake the rears will not blink)
Alan
1. Brake feed to the column
2. Hazard Flasher (pre ignition)
3. Front left turn from the column
4. Front right turn from the column.
A single throw 4 pole switch will work.
One side of the switch, tie all four poles together, the other side the four items.
The factory split the wires at the switch, so each of the 4 items had two wires. You could use a tap on each circuit and run one wire from each to the switch.
The switch does not interrupt the other wires or functions, it just overrides them. (if you push the brake the rears will not blink)
Alan
Is this what you mean?
For those of us outside the US that got separate orange rear blinkers that are also used as reverse lights, does this mean if I stick the car in reverse the hazards won't flash? I'd like them to keep flashing, as I figured that warning others of a hazard would take priority.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Yes on the switch.
With this the red brake lights will flash, not the rear amber turn lights.
I'd speculate that if you wanted the ambers to flash and not the reds then you'd not use the brake feed
Without seeing a wiring diagram I don't know how the backup switch is tied in.
Alan
With this the red brake lights will flash, not the rear amber turn lights.
I'd speculate that if you wanted the ambers to flash and not the reds then you'd not use the brake feed
Without seeing a wiring diagram I don't know how the backup switch is tied in.
Alan
Alright, so after spending an unhealthy amount of time finding a hazard light switch that'd look neat (the 4pst switches are nice but I really, really wanted a proper hazard switch), I eventually stumbled across something that I think will fit perfectly - the hazard warning switch from a 68-73(or 74) VW beetle/karmann ghia etc:
The below pic I shamelessly stole from here since nobody else seemed to actually have any pictures of the internals:
I was pleasantly surprised to find that it's still available on rockauto too: SKP part # SK953133.
It's very similar to our headlight switch in terms of how it's mounted on the dash (remove knob shaft bezel, then unscrew knob), and how it's operated - pushed in, the regular flashers work, pull out, and the hazards light up.
The knob itself also has a bulb inside it for illumination, that same bulb will flash together with the hazards when active.
The way it works is that with the switch pushed in, terminals 15 and +/49 (black wire and white wire in above diagram, this relay follows the DIN 72552 numbering standard) are bridged by a sliding contact, allowing for operation of the turn signals as usual.
When the switch is pulled out, terminals 30 and +/49 are bridged instead, there is a second sliding contact that bridges terminal 30 and the R and L contacts, which enables the hazard lights to run.
Pin 58 is only used when the switch is pushed in and exterior lights are on, once pulled out it gets bridged by that second sliding contact previously mentioned to the hazard relay circuit, and it starts flashing. Chassis ground needs to be connected to allow this bulb to operate.
For our needs, the easiest way would be to reverse the operation of terminals 15/30 and +/49: 15 would go to the regular turn signal flasher, 30 to a separate hazard flasher, and +/49 would be our power feed. The only problem with this is that this will make the regular turn signal circuit active even when the ignition key is out, so the turn signals can still be used even with the vehicle off. For anyone that had rear orange blinkers that are also used as reverse lights, you'd need to add a piggyback terminal to pin 30, then connect a normally-closed relay that can disconnect the reverse light circuit when hazards are active. At the moment my brain is fried so if anyone can see a way to keep the turn signal circuit off unless ignition is on, please do post.
The below pic I shamelessly stole from here since nobody else seemed to actually have any pictures of the internals:
I was pleasantly surprised to find that it's still available on rockauto too: SKP part # SK953133.
It's very similar to our headlight switch in terms of how it's mounted on the dash (remove knob shaft bezel, then unscrew knob), and how it's operated - pushed in, the regular flashers work, pull out, and the hazards light up.
The knob itself also has a bulb inside it for illumination, that same bulb will flash together with the hazards when active.
The way it works is that with the switch pushed in, terminals 15 and +/49 (black wire and white wire in above diagram, this relay follows the DIN 72552 numbering standard) are bridged by a sliding contact, allowing for operation of the turn signals as usual.
When the switch is pulled out, terminals 30 and +/49 are bridged instead, there is a second sliding contact that bridges terminal 30 and the R and L contacts, which enables the hazard lights to run.
Pin 58 is only used when the switch is pushed in and exterior lights are on, once pulled out it gets bridged by that second sliding contact previously mentioned to the hazard relay circuit, and it starts flashing. Chassis ground needs to be connected to allow this bulb to operate.
For our needs, the easiest way would be to reverse the operation of terminals 15/30 and +/49: 15 would go to the regular turn signal flasher, 30 to a separate hazard flasher, and +/49 would be our power feed. The only problem with this is that this will make the regular turn signal circuit active even when the ignition key is out, so the turn signals can still be used even with the vehicle off. For anyone that had rear orange blinkers that are also used as reverse lights, you'd need to add a piggyback terminal to pin 30, then connect a normally-closed relay that can disconnect the reverse light circuit when hazards are active. At the moment my brain is fried so if anyone can see a way to keep the turn signal circuit off unless ignition is on, please do post.
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The issue I see with this is there's no feed to the rear brake light/turn signals. Hooking them to the R and L terminals with the right and left turn signals would make the front turn signals come on with the brake lights.
I see you make a reference to "rear orange blinkers" and our old cars in the states don't have those.
What could be done is to wire some diodes so it doesn't back feed, but if you are going to add diodes, you could just use a simple on-off switch and 2 diodes.
That is true, I totally forgot about the turn lights sharing the brake lights. I suppose with blinkers that share brakes, some diodes could be added. It'd be more effort than wiring a good old flick switch, but for me at least, I really do like how these look. But if anyone knows of a similar looking switch that works (and is hopefully simplier) then feel free to chime in.
darth_linux
Senior Member
Are you bringing a car?
I know darth decided to get the OEM dealer kit; it's a decent amount of effort to make your own one - having to crawl up under the dash and getting your arms up in there, crimping terminals in awkward positions etc. But I post this in case anyone else wants a different option when it comes to retrofitting hazard flashers, this one with the VW beetle hazard switch. It might be a little ghetto, but I like to think it's a bit of a posh ghetto at least.
When I was done, I realised that it was basically a rehash of the OEM dealer option kit:
Only instead of adding its own little harness between the steering column and the factory harness, I ended up just doing the lazy way and installing a piggyback quick disconnect on the column side, which you'll see further below.
First, my car didn't come with a radio, so there was a blanking plate there. Conveniently, this means an empty hole where a dial would otherwise be, that's almost in the center of the dash - a perfect spot for a hazard switch that would need to be activated in an emergency by either driver or passenger:
Pros:
- switch can still be got off rockauto
- if you have a Monaco dash, it fits surprisingly well aesthetically
Cons:
- Uses a hole for one of the radio dials, ergo only really works if your car didn't have a radio
-- Said hole needs to be slightly enlarged to enable the bezel nut to actually thread into the switch to hold it in place
- Requires putting something in place of the gaping holes in the dash if gaping holes in the dash upset you
-- Requires modifying the radio blanking plate or fabbing up your own one if you don't want to cut it short
- Will need to think of another spot to put it if your dash has a different layout from above
To recap, see the terminal pinout below:
Pin 31 can simply be grounded to one of the existing nuts nearby up in the dash, takes a 3/8 socket to remove.
Conveniently, there's a bullet-type socket for the dash lights that has two extra holes for other things:
Perfect for our hazard switch - just hook up a wire from here, to pin 58b on the hazard switch, and now it'll light up when you turn on the parking lights or headlights.
Interestingly, my factory fuse box has its own fuse for the emergency flasher - labelled as 'EM FL':
This goes to an unused two pin flasher relay connector tucked up under the left side of the dash, right below the glovebox. How convenient is that, we've even got a battery power, fused circuit ready to use!
I unpin the the factory red terminal from that unused flasher socket, and use one that was included in a new electric choked-carby I bought but never used, to run all the way up to the 49a terminal on the flasher relay.
Now the fun part: the R and L terminals will need to branch out into two wires each, this needs to be spliced into the tan/brown and green/light green wires at the steering wheel disconnect. In my case, I decided to cut the steering column harness side and install piggybacks. Heat shrinked the exposed terminals to cut down the chances of shorting in the event that it touches metal bits there:
I haven't tested it yet...typical of me, I bought everything I needed to do this modification, except buying the flasher relay lol. But I don't see why it wouldn't work, given that it's just a different take on how the OEM dealer kit does it.
When I was done, I realised that it was basically a rehash of the OEM dealer option kit:
Only instead of adding its own little harness between the steering column and the factory harness, I ended up just doing the lazy way and installing a piggyback quick disconnect on the column side, which you'll see further below.
First, my car didn't come with a radio, so there was a blanking plate there. Conveniently, this means an empty hole where a dial would otherwise be, that's almost in the center of the dash - a perfect spot for a hazard switch that would need to be activated in an emergency by either driver or passenger:
Pros:
- switch can still be got off rockauto
- if you have a Monaco dash, it fits surprisingly well aesthetically
Cons:
- Uses a hole for one of the radio dials, ergo only really works if your car didn't have a radio
-- Said hole needs to be slightly enlarged to enable the bezel nut to actually thread into the switch to hold it in place
- Requires putting something in place of the gaping holes in the dash if gaping holes in the dash upset you
-- Requires modifying the radio blanking plate or fabbing up your own one if you don't want to cut it short
- Will need to think of another spot to put it if your dash has a different layout from above
To recap, see the terminal pinout below:
Pin 31 can simply be grounded to one of the existing nuts nearby up in the dash, takes a 3/8 socket to remove.
Conveniently, there's a bullet-type socket for the dash lights that has two extra holes for other things:
Perfect for our hazard switch - just hook up a wire from here, to pin 58b on the hazard switch, and now it'll light up when you turn on the parking lights or headlights.
Interestingly, my factory fuse box has its own fuse for the emergency flasher - labelled as 'EM FL':
This goes to an unused two pin flasher relay connector tucked up under the left side of the dash, right below the glovebox. How convenient is that, we've even got a battery power, fused circuit ready to use!
I unpin the the factory red terminal from that unused flasher socket, and use one that was included in a new electric choked-carby I bought but never used, to run all the way up to the 49a terminal on the flasher relay.
Now the fun part: the R and L terminals will need to branch out into two wires each, this needs to be spliced into the tan/brown and green/light green wires at the steering wheel disconnect. In my case, I decided to cut the steering column harness side and install piggybacks. Heat shrinked the exposed terminals to cut down the chances of shorting in the event that it touches metal bits there:
I haven't tested it yet...typical of me, I bought everything I needed to do this modification, except buying the flasher relay lol. But I don't see why it wouldn't work, given that it's just a different take on how the OEM dealer kit does it.
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