deucecard
New Member
Wanting an old-school look for my 1966 Sport Fury with 383 auto and 8-3/4 rear end. What air shocks and traction bars will fit?
Airr shocks & traction bars
- Thread starter deucecard
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Any Monroe or Gabriel air shock, which is only ONE part number for each brand, for a C-body Chrysler of that vintage.
No real need for traction bars on a Chrysler product, due to their asymmetrical rear axle mount on the rear leaf springs. There's an Uncle Tony's Garage YouTube segment on that, entitled something like "What Makes Mopars Awesome". One of the old Traction Master bars would tend to compliment this set-up, I suspect, rather than the GM-like bars everybody with GM cars ran back then.
CBODY67
No real need for traction bars on a Chrysler product, due to their asymmetrical rear axle mount on the rear leaf springs. There's an Uncle Tony's Garage YouTube segment on that, entitled something like "What Makes Mopars Awesome". One of the old Traction Master bars would tend to compliment this set-up, I suspect, rather than the GM-like bars everybody with GM cars ran back then.
CBODY67
I'm going to say this... Mopars don't need traction bars. They are a bandaid for GM cars to stop wheel hop. The GM cars had a leaf spring that was longer in front of the axle, where the Mopar leaf springs were shorter in the front so the spring didn't wind up and give you wheel hop.
To put them on for looks tells anyone that knows this (almost everyone in the Mopar community) that you don't know this.
So, the fake race car look makes it look even more fake. Don't do it... People will point and laugh. Seriously.
To put them on for looks tells anyone that knows this (almost everyone in the Mopar community) that you don't know this.
So, the fake race car look makes it look even more fake. Don't do it... People will point and laugh. Seriously.
deucecard
New Member
Thank you.
deucecard
New Member
Thank you.
deucecard
New Member
Thanks.
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And air shocks are also a horrible idea if the intent is to increase the rear ride height as the rear shock crossmember was not engineered to actually support the weight of the vehicle. This is the leaf springs job not the shocks.
Dads300
Active Member
If your car is structurally sound, air shocks are fine. If you were towing a trailer with 6 passengers and a canoe on the roof it might not be a good long-term solution, but for cruising around with “the look” it’ll be fine.
Travis..
Travis..
deucecard
New Member
Thanks. With having antique plates, I am limited to 2,000 miles per year so only cruises and car shows. Sure lots of Mopars getting "laughed" at for having air shocks and traction bars attached.
A friend of mine had a Camaro with "slapper bars" on it. One night, driving around, he ran over a dog. No big deal, back then. Afterward, he started to get puking looks from others who pulled up beside him at red lights. Seems the dog had rolled and the front of the bar sent into the dog's rib cage, keeping him "hung" on the bar. So he had to remove the dog (now dead) and wash off the car. YUK! NOT one of his more pleasant memories of that car.
I might not "laugh" at a MoPar with GM-oriented add-ons on it, just snicker and suspect the driver/owner was "new to MoPars" and didn't know any better. Suspecting that "all cars are the same (like GM cars)
I might not "laugh" at a MoPar with GM-oriented add-ons on it, just snicker and suspect the driver/owner was "new to MoPars" and didn't know any better. Suspecting that "all cars are the same (like GM cars)
Blusmbl
Member
My car had air shocks on it for about 15 years for tire clearance, and it has made the shock c-channel slightly squeaky, I've been meaning to weld it up when I get a chance. Long term use with them fully inflated can damage the c-channel.
The mopar leaf springs are definitely the best of the OEM's but right now for drag only everyone uses caltracs. They're more adjustable and work better, especially for radial drag racing. They don't look nostalgic like slapper bars though.
The mopar leaf springs are definitely the best of the OEM's but right now for drag only everyone uses caltracs. They're more adjustable and work better, especially for radial drag racing. They don't look nostalgic like slapper bars though.
I have insurance called Modern Insurance Company
I pay according to mileage I choose and total value I choose.
deucecard
New Member
The Missouri Antique tags dictate the mileage per year, not my insurance.
Thanks.
That stinks hahaha
SuperDave
Member
I was going to suggest Caltracs as well. That's one of the items on my wish list. They don't just aid in straight line traction off the line or only prevent leaf spring wrapping, they positively lock down the rear axle, preventing twisting or torquing while still able to articulate up & down normally. With the addition of a sway bar, they dramatically enhance handling, keeping the car flatter in turns. I had a friend with a 70s Trans Am equipped with Caltracs, it would out handle a Porsche. Another thing I noticed is that after he installed them was that we could feel the transmission shift much more firmly. Full throttle shifts were delivered with a satisfactory kick in the seat. I want that on MY car!
I also agree that the shock-to-body mounts aren't designed to be weight bearing, so adding air shocks and overinflating them all the time can be detrimental. However, it is possible to reinforce and fortify that section to make it suitable for such. It might require yanking out the seats or climbing thru the trunk to weld in quarter inch plates to the floorpans or something, but it is doable. But please closely examine the undercarriage carefully for rust first. If a unibody is badly rusted and air shocks are installed, a hard solid bump over a pothole or speed bump could tear out the floor and result in repair costs sufficient to total the car out. I have seen it happen before.
I also agree that the shock-to-body mounts aren't designed to be weight bearing, so adding air shocks and overinflating them all the time can be detrimental. However, it is possible to reinforce and fortify that section to make it suitable for such. It might require yanking out the seats or climbing thru the trunk to weld in quarter inch plates to the floorpans or something, but it is doable. But please closely examine the undercarriage carefully for rust first. If a unibody is badly rusted and air shocks are installed, a hard solid bump over a pothole or speed bump could tear out the floor and result in repair costs sufficient to total the car out. I have seen it happen before.
deucecard
New Member
Thank you. Lots of good information.
Blusmbl
Member
I have caltracs, split monos and Viking double adjustable shocks on my ‘68. The B body caltracs bolt right on because the Furies use the same length spring as a B body.
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