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The factory wiring runs basically all the power from the alternator to the battery through the bulkhead connector, the ammeter and then back through the bulkhead. The power for everything except the starter and the horn tees off of this wire between the bulkhead and the ammeter.
This sets up 2 weak spots. The connector at the bulkhead & the ammeter (more likely the actual wire connections on the back of the gauge).
The full MAD conversion does 3 things to improve this situation.
1. Connect the Red & Black wires to each other directly bypassing the ammeter. You have already set this up by switching to a voltmeter. I'm not sure what the voltmeter connects to, but I assume that Redline Gauge has that figured out.
2. Eliminate the male & female connectors at the bulkhead and run the Red & Black wires straight through new holes. I'm not totally sold on this one, as it could make future work more difficult by making the underdash & underhood wiring permanently connected.
3. Adding a new wire connecting the alternator & battery that stays under the hood and doesn't pass through the bulkhead at all. The power for the ignition, lights, radio, etc still uses the original wiring, but the current that is charging the battery doesn't have to go through the bulkhead. If you are redoing the wiring anyway I would definitely consider this. The only real downside is it would affect the accuracy of the ammeter that you have already eliminated.