and now the heater box needs to shimmy out

[furious70]

Almost have it out. I can't remember do you roll it up or down on it's way out? And do I have to take the bottom panel with the outlet for the driver's side vent off? I can't get it out from the dash just yet with that in place. I don't think I had put the console in the car yet when I did this the last time, had to slide that back some as well (or maybe not if I'm supposed to remove the bottom panel on the box itself)

Thanks

 

[70NEWYORKER]

Is this an A/C box?
If so, you need to remove the distribution duct on the bottom (heat vents) and A/C duct adapter from passenger compartment face of box.
If it still won't slide out from under dash you may have to roll carpeting back. Carpeting trick adds a little more than an inch of clearance.

 

[furious70]

a/c box yes. I removed all the ducting that goes to the vents, but sounds like the panel on the bottom held with 1/4" head cap screws needs to come off. It's sure in the way, so it makes sense.
I was trying to push the carpet out of the way, definitely saw that.
Do you roll it up or down (I can remember doing that per FSM, but not which direction)

 

[furious70]

Got it out, core is ugly, seals disintegrate upon touch, except the one against the firewall looked ok, not sure why ac drain is leaking. Evap starting to rust, but was still holding charge, should I replace?

 

[HWYCRZR]

If it is out it’s probably a good idea to replace unless you enjoy taking the box in and out. But if it is holding a charge it could be fine. The rust is probably from water/ condensation sitting in the bottom of the box due to dirt or something blocking the drain for years. New seals and gaskets are probably available from DMT (Detroit Motor Technologies)

 

[furious70]

From other thread, evap is about 20yrs old, heater core is the original one

 

[furious70]

anyone buy from this guy?
65 66 67 68 69 70 DODGE CHRYSLER PLYMOUTH W/AC HEATER CORE PAYPAL ACCEPTED | eBay

they say it actually fits or they pay shipping to return and refund. The photo is terrible is appears the piping is at least not right/complete on it.

 

[70NEWYORKER]

anyone buy from this guy?
65 66 67 68 69 70 DODGE CHRYSLER PLYMOUTH W/AC HEATER CORE PAYPAL ACCEPTED | eBay

they say it actually fits or they pay shipping to return and refund. The photo is terrible is appears the piping is at least not right/complete on it.

Going strictly from the first picture posted on eboy it is not the correct one. 1970 does not have the secondary water valve to close off coolant flow thru half of the core when the A/C is on. Three years ago when I needed a replacement, the correct one for my car was $500. plus shipping. I had mine recored by a local shop for $495. , no shipping, and I got to hold it in my hands BEFORE I parted with any cash.

 

[Pappy]

Hey Furious70, et al,
i've just begun the heater box removal from my 67 Fury III with ac.
might you know of a more step-by-step thread that i can follow?
i have FSM, but it doesnt have a ton of details.
thx! Pappy

 

[furious70]

Don't know is a thread.
I pull the ac vents, glove box door, glove box liner. Pull the sill plate and pull the carpet and underlay back, I needed that little extra space to get the box out. You may want to loosen the dash frame on the pass side. You can leave a console in but I had to unbolt and skooch back. Getting the nuts off in the engine compartment is a pita. I've done it with and without removing the wheel well.

 

[furious70]

Looks like I never posted a conclusion to my story. Old evap psi tested fine,I reused. Everything worked fine when put back together. Disappointed that fan speed wasn't better with new motor and seals. Power is run from a relay already

 

[Pappy]

THX! interior is stripped down to the pan. no console, removed glove box - in many pieces - and removed the 5 nuts from the engine side. i see a few black plastic "screws" (for lack of a better term ) sticking thru the firewall in to the engine compartment. do you know if they need to be punched back thru the firewall to get the box out??
thanks again. ill try not to be a pain...

Don't know is a thread.
I pull the ac vents, glove box door, glove box liner. Pull the sill plate and pull the carpet and underlay back, I needed that little extra space to get the box out. You may want to loosen the dash frame on the pass side. You can leave a console in but I had to unbolt and skooch back. Getting the nuts off in the engine compartment is a pita. I've done it with and without removing the wheel well.

 

[furious70]

Got a photo of those screws, can't picture it and I have my charger at my house now

 

[Pappy]

Got a photo of those screws, can't picture it and I have my charger at my house now

Looks like there are 2....

 

[furious70]

Different than a 70, but they don't look like something that'll hang it up

 

[Polara_500]

Those are push rivets that hold the insulation to the firewall.

 

[david hill]

Do not hammer or force the heater box studs through the firewall. You will break the heater box. The heater box configuration ii's the same as the 69-71 Chrysler 300. You must remove the center dash vent assemb to remove the heater box. The studs by the blower motor won't effect heater box removal. Take some photos the heater box under the hood would help. There is no mention what year your car is. The attached photo is of a 69-71 Chrysler 300 heater box. Note the bottom photo how it is broken at the top, this is why you don't hammer or use excessive force on the studs.