70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Now you have to buy the same side, or just buy a pair.
any tips for removing stuck torsion bar
- Thread starter Cazman
- Start date
Cazman
Active Member
Mr. Fix It (member) has some used torsion bars for me, but we are not sure if they will swap.
Mine is for a '68 300 w/440
His are from a 73 Chrysler Newport 4dr sedan 400BB
My numbers stamped on the TB are:
621L BDZ
620R BDZ
His are stamped:
623L CNV
622R 482
All are 47" & black coated
How do we know?
Mine is for a '68 300 w/440
His are from a 73 Chrysler Newport 4dr sedan 400BB
My numbers stamped on the TB are:
621L BDZ
620R BDZ
His are stamped:
623L CNV
622R 482
All are 47" & black coated
How do we know?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
The L and R go toward rear I believe. Measure them with some calipers. Even cheap harbor freight ones are good for things like this.
Bigger diameter will be fine. I would not go smaller.
Bigger diameter will be fine. I would not go smaller.
Cazman
Active Member
So, the part numbers do not matter. Just the length and diameter?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
As are the most important things in life are.
Cazman
Active Member
They are .960, so I guess all I have to do is match that diameter.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
The pair I have is .985"+-.0001"
Just a bit heavier of a bar.
Just a bit heavier of a bar.
Cazman
Active Member
umm. not sure what to do here. Go to the heavier bar? Sounds like the police version was even heavier, so I guess the .985 should be ok.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
do your research and go with what your gut tells you to do.
the thicker bars will give you a slightly firmer ride.
With that little of a difference I doubt that you would notice a difference. As long as they fit and y'all agree on price I say go for it.
Looks like a 2.6% heavier TB. A good and mild upgrade. . .
Cazman
Active Member
Thanks for the input all.
The numbers shown are the last three digits of the full part number.
Screen shot from '68 parts manual.
'73 parts manual.
The diameter of the various bars are also listed in the FSM.
They don't list a '68 FSM here, but I assume you have one if you've gone this far. They do list the parts manuals though.
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Like going from a 318 bar to a 340 bar on a A body. Just a tick stiffer, not bone jarring.
Cazman
Active Member
Yes, I do have a FSM. And yes, the diameters are in there. I did not see them before. Thanks.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
YES!!! This was exactly what I resorted to 16 months ago when rebuilding my front end. I gently heated the rear socket until the 50 yr old grease started to flow, then hammered on my oak block torsion bar tool and DEUS LAUS! ET GRATIAS A SANCTUS IOSEF! the bar moved. Once started, it got progressively easier. I probably will work on it again within another year, as I want to further improve my suspension.
Heat works, when applied with care.
Cazman
Active Member
I have found that having two people is better. One person uses an impact wrench on the tension bolt (screw in then screw out multiple times) while the other taps the bar out. I think the rotation of the bar has to be perfect to some out.
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