Article for you torque monster stroker dreamers

[bajajoaquin]

That's power you can feel in seat of your pants. Then add 15.9% more cubic inches, the drop off gets steeper. This is not to say don't do it (manifolds) but there is definitely a penalty.
The best and simplest explaination of how/why headers work I saw on a episode of Wheeler Dealers. The new guy (not Edd) took a exhaust manifold, placed a napkin over a exhaust port at one end and using a blow gun with compressed air blew in the port at other end (furthest away) and it blew the napkin off the port. On the header same setup the napkin did not move, all the air went down the tube and out the collector/toward exhaust, no reversion back up the other tube to push the napkin off. Headers are good, manifolds are okay, but you will never get back to as good as crappy headers. Even the factories have succumbed and most of the manifolds on hp engines look like stubby headers.
The only reason for manifolds are required for FAST racing or pure stock drags etc.. For a 1000 point resto absolutely and they don't look bad, it's just not worth the efficiency and power loss, IMO. If your car did not have HP manifolds or even the correct engine in it why the hell would you torture yourself.

You’re exactly right. The trouble for me is figuring out what is the best marginal thousand bucks. If I’m going to do a stock rebuild with 440-source heads, and I want to spend about a thousand bucks extra, what’s the best option for my use case?

Cubes? ($1500)
Roller cam? ($1000)
TTI headers? ($850)

(Note these are marginal costs over the stock configuration)

Ideally I’d do all three. But that’s too far over budget. I know I’ll bust the budget somewhere, so I don’t want to start off over budget too.

 

[Turboomni]

I have located the supposed best stock intake mopar made for a 440 to replace the 1973 intake on my core engine I just bought.. This is the same intake that is on my present 440. That way all linkage etc and stock dual snorkel air cleaner I know will fit. Later I can swap out the intake if I feel the need. I want to concentrate on the bottom up. I can always add a fancy intake ,or headers later. Headers for me is the very last resort. So a stroker bottom end ,likely a roller cam and aluminum heads and carb.
And just to piss you all off points ignition. [I can always change that easy later if need be too.] Halifaxhops said he could set up a nice distributor with a setup mechanical advance on his Sun dizzy machine.


440 source description of the intake manifold I will use.

The 2806178 intake was used on all 440 4 barrel engines from 1967 through 1969, on both standard and high performance models. Because of the years and engine this intake was used on, it is considered one of the best "muscle car" intakes. SHOWN FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY, NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE.

 

[Turboomni]

Even if I go from 300 hp on my present low compression 440 to 450 to 500 hp say and from 400\ torque to 500+ with the stroker the seat of my pants will notice the difference I think. Even with the HP manifolds I will be impressed,,,I don't think I will know the difference of 18 hp and 23 torque at that point. As Einstein once said" Everything is relative"

 

[70bigblockdodge]

@Turboomni that's not the best intake. Likely the best intake is the 73 intake, you already have or later. The Mopar performance M1 dual plane was a copy of the EGR spread bore intake, it had the most interior volume of any RB intakes, and it was cast in aluminum.
I have a 69 HP intake if anyone wants to buy it.
Duct tape the intake ports on both intakes so they will hold water, you will also have to do the EGR valve on the 73. Then "borrow" your wife's measured pitcher from the kitchen and fill each intake with water noting the volume to fill each and I believe you be surprised. The earlier intake also has sharper corners on the turns from center to ports.
You will definitely notice a jump from 300 to 450. I like the points idea, I'm running them myself and could not be happier knowing my ignition has very few parts that all fit in a band-aid box in the glove compartment.

 

[twostick]

Don't even think about a roller for your application. Zero advantage for what you are building other than bragging rights. Don't believe everything you read in Hotrod Magazine.

Kevin

 

[Turboomni]

Thanks guys ,very interesting on the intake and points!! As for the roller I see your point too and would only use one if there was absolute proof there was enough power to be gained in my application. Sure would be alot cheaper not using one too. Bragging rights do not concern me as I want the engine to look stock anyways. No bling and a stock dual snorkel air cleaner. So more research to do and thanks.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Thanks guys ,very interesting on the intake and points!! As for the roller I see your point too and would only use one if there was absolute proof there was enough power to be gained in my application. Sure would be alot cheaper not using one too. Bragging rights do not concern me as I want the engine to look stock anyways. No bling and a stock dual snorkel air cleaner. So more research to do and thanks.

I have to say I think you can get where you want to be without a roller. A roller will definitely make more power, that's why the OEMs have gone to them, but they redesigned the block to use them. The link bar system is a ticking time bomb, a when not if. For all the power sure but you have already compromised the flow so the roller is not as effective so why not save the coin. Just my opinion. Your sweating a couple of horsepower for the roller and giving up a couple for the exhaust manifold with a $700 dollar penalty, no the roller will not get them back, lost flow is lost flow. If you increase the wire size before a resistor you do not get more amperage out after the resistor.