Axle Leaking

[MJFUR]

What is happening here?

69 Chrysler 300, the rear end has been rebuilt 4 times in the last 3000 miles. 8 3/4 Diff Dilemma

I saw some leakage on the backside of the Rear Drivers Side tire, figured it was the brake cylinder. When I took it apart, it sure looks like a thick red grease or oil. (Dot 3 fluid is a tan/yellow.)

Is it outer axle bearing grease leaking out or is it the gear oil from the differential making its way out (Is that even possible?)? What is the fix?

Why can't I have a bullet proof 8 3/4 that runs all day, every day like everyone else? Thx

 

[Big_John]

The grease from the wheel bearing won't drip and run like that.

Looks to me to be the rear end gear oil.

I'd say it's the inner seal on the axles. Lot's of things happen, like the seals weren't put in correctly. I had one where they didn't push the seal in far enough and it rubbed on the bearing collar. The other possiblity is the seal was damged when pushing in the axles.

Since that's the right rear, there should be an adjuster for the axle play... Unless you've replaced the good tapered bearings with the "green" bearings. (ugh)

So... Pull the axle and look.

 

[volksworld]

gear oil has a distinct sulfur smell and its presence is pretty easily identified by that...however its a liquid, not a jelly...but it may be finding its way past the inner seal and partially dissolving the wheel bearing grease allowing it to be thrown against the shoes...there should be an outer grease seal as well but i believe the bearing needs to be pressed off the shaft to change it...if you go back to your previous thread, the second picture of post #3 shows the shiny spot on the axle shaft where the inner seal would ride...any rust or damage there and it would leak...like if someone hit it with a chisel trying to split the original retaining ring to remove it...kinda a long shot but make sure your axle vent (the hollow bolt with the cap on it that holds the rear brake line T to the rear) isnt plugged up or it can cause seals to leak when pressure builds up due to heat

 

[1970FuryConv]

Inner axle seal can be removed easily with a slide hammer.
Hammer the new inner axle seal home with the right size socket and carefully install the axle shaft so it doesn't damage the new seal.
If the new seal looks like it's been in the parts store system for a while, it probably has. I installed one from NAPA that lasted 1 month. Make sure new seal looks new. Easy job to replace.

 

['66 Fury I]

I have had great success buying bearings and seals at local bearing shops. These shops stock (or order) bearings from manufacturers like SKF, Timkin, National and the like. This ensures (as much as possible) fresh, well made parts. These shops aer also part of nation-wide companies and have internet access to inventory in many warehouses. Lindsay

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

There is a vent on the axle housing right? May want to make sure that isn't plugged.


.

 

[Lefty71]

If your rear has been rebuilt four times and the axle seals still need replacing, then you need four new mechanics!!

Your pix look like the hot gear oil has broken down the axle grease and spit it all over the brakes.

X2 on checking the axle housing vent.

Good Luck, Lefty71

 

[MJFUR]

All Bearings and Seals have been replaced four times. Every failure has been different.
So far I've had three different recommended "Experts/Shops - I can do an 8 3/4 in my sleep, no problems." rebuild it.

Thx

 

[Lefty71]

All Bearings and Seals have been replaced four times. Every failure has been different.
So far I've had three different recommended "Experts/Shops - I can do an 8 3/4 in my sleep, no problems." rebuild it.

Then you have a bent axle or housing or something.... Someone needs to take a hard look at that assembly.

 

[rags]

So far I've had three different recommended "Experts/Shops rebuild it.

at this point why would you not just take the nuts off and pull the axle. if you can't spot the problem, post pictures here and there's a pretty good chance that a member here will be able to help you. if every failure is different and they've all been repaired in the process of creating a new problem, stop overhauling it each time and just fix the one problem.

Hammer the new inner axle seal home with the right size socket

do these seals have springs on the back side? i think it was you who suggested putting grease on the backside to hold the spring in place. a tip that i've used several times since, thank you.

 

[1970FuryConv]

do these seals have springs on the back side? i think it was you who suggested putting grease on the backside to hold the spring in place. a tip that i've used several times since, thank you.

Yes. I oversimplified and skipped steps. Grease the rubber to hold the spring and give the axle shaft a lubricated surface, such that it doesn't make contact with dry rubber at start up.

 

[MJFUR]

at this point why would you not just take the nuts off and pull the axle. if you can't spot the problem, post pictures here and there's a pretty good chance that a member here will be able to help you. if every failure is different and they've all been repaired in the process of creating a new problem, stop overhauling it each time and just fix the one problem.

do these seals have springs on the back side? i think it was you who suggested putting grease on the backside to hold the spring in place. a tip that i've used several times since, thank you.

Come on down to Texas, I'll buy the Beer and BBQ. Let me know when.

 

[Big_John]

One of the questions that was never answered is if you are using green bearings or not.

I just went through the other thread and something doesn't make sense... The first shop installed everything, but you said they didn't replace the bearings... Although it looks like you bought everything and said you had "green bearings". The picture at the top of this thread has no adjuster, which leads me to believe you have green bearings.

I don't personally like green bearings, but whatever... Let's say you aren't, and there's no spacer in the center... That will cause a problem. Let's say you are and there is a spacer... I could think that may cause problems if the spacer side loads the ball bearings.

I really think if you can pull the wheel and brake drum, you can figure out how to pull that axle. Just 5 nuts and give it a yank... If it doesn't want to come out easy, turn the drum around, put some lug nuts on it loose and use the drum like a slide hammer. I've never not been able to pull an 8 3/4 axle out that way.

Once you get that axle out, we might be able to help... Until then it's just speculation.

 

[rags]

Let me know when.

no doubt that's a sincere offer. unfortunately, it can't happen but i do appreciate it. upside is, what @Big_John says is true. five nuts and pull the axle. you have nothing to loose. post pictures and he and no doubt several others would be willing to help you.

 

[MJFUR]

Ok, here you go. It's about 137F in Texas today, working on Jack Stands, you're killing me. I will most likely complaining and ***** mostly from the heat, but I do appreciate the help. Thx

The leak is on the Drivers side, the adjuster is on the Passenger side. Yes, the fluid smells like Sulfur. The Vent bolt is clear and venting.

At this point I do not know if Green Bearings were installed or not (at any of the rebuilds)? I also don't know about this Thrust Block thing either.
"Green bearings will often push the axles too far inward so that they collide with the center thrust block. If that is the case, you won't be able to secure the axles properly, and it could cause similar problems to what you are describing. The fix is to remove the thrust block from the differential. Did he do that when the sure grip was installed?"

Do you need any other pics?

Ok, now what happens?

 

[volksworld]

ok...those are stock bearings, not" green" bearings...the thrust button appears to be in place in the diff (good)...now clean off the spot on the axle shaft where the seal rides(the skinny part) and make sure there is no damage...that spot has to be polished and smooth for the seal to work...if there is, you'll need another axle...it looks like the bearing grease has been washed inside onto the face of the seal, so gear oil has made it past the inner seal...so replace the seal and see if there appears to be any problem with it (inner spring missing, any tear in the rubber, rubber cracked or hardened)...the right tool to pull a seal is a rectangular plate with a long slotted hole in it that attaches to a slide hammer or puller...the long slot allows the plate to be laid horizontal to fit through the center of the seal, then stood vertical once inside...auto zone rents a seal/ bearing puller but idk if it is the correct size for you as its designed to pull chevy stuff...if all is good you'll need to flush the contaminated grease out of the bearing (lots of aerosol brake kleen and hopefully compressed air) and repack it...then you need to go through the procedure to re-set the end play between the axles which is a whole other story and hopefully spelled out in some other thread on here...since its the non adjustable side you're working on you might be ok if the last guy did it right but the last thing you want to do is bend the retainer plate if the other side is wrong...and you'll need a new gasket for the retainer plate and the thickness of that can affect the end play

 

[MJFUR]

ok...those are stock bearings, not" green" bearings...the thrust button appears to be in place in the diff (good)...now clean off the spot on the axle shaft where the seal rides(the skinny part) and make sure there is no damage...that spot has to be polished and smooth for the seal to work...if there is, you'll need another axle...it looks like the bearing grease has been washed inside onto the face of the seal, so gear oil has made it past the inner seal...so replace the seal and see if there appears to be any problem with it (inner spring missing, any tear in the rubber, rubber cracked or hardened)...the right tool to pull a seal is a rectangular plate with a long slotted hole in it that attaches to a slide hammer or puller...the long slot allows the plate to be laid horizontal to fit through the center of the seal, then stood vertical once inside...auto zone rents a seal/ bearing puller but idk if it is the correct size for you as its designed to pull chevy stuff...if all is good you'll need to flush the contaminated grease out of the bearing (lots of aerosol brake kleen and hopefully compressed air) and repack it...then you need to go through the procedure to re-set the end play between the axles which is a whole other story and hopefully spelled out in some other thread on here...since its the non adjustable side you're working on you might be ok if the last guy did it right but the last thing you want to do is bend the retainer plate if the other side is wrong...and you'll need a new gasket for the retainer plate so the thickness of that can affect the end play

You lost me after "not green bearings".

 

[Big_John]

Here's your answer. One of the hacks working on ot banged it up and just tossed it back in. Those marks will tear up the seal in no time.

It can be filed down to smooth, and that would stop it from destoying the seal. I'm not sure if it might still leak or not.

I'd pull the other axle to check for similar damage.

I think someone owes you a new axle... That's some poor work there.

 

[Ripinator]

You lost me after "not green bearings".

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Maybe this info will help:

Looking at the photos you posted, there appears to be damage to the bearing outer collar (looks galled) and it appears the seals are not sealing at all. In fact, I can't even tell if they are present. Looks like the sealing surfaces are all boogered up too. I'm not surprised at the leak(s). I don't know if you can polish out the sealing surfaces enough to allow the seals to work. You may need to acquire new or good used replacement axles.

 

[MJFUR]

Where do I get Not China axles?

Does anyone sell a bolt-in ready to go axle assembly?