Axle Leaking

1970FuryConv said:
Inner axle seal can be removed easily with a slide hammer.
Click to expand...
Hell! Use an old brake drum for your "slide hammer." I did, and pulled my axle shafts easily.
1970FuryConv said:
Hammer the new inner axle seal home with the right size socket and carefully install the axle shaft so it doesn't damage the new seal.
Click to expand...
This operation is one which the utmost care possible should be used on. I made a nice seal driver from some SCH 40 PVC pipe, to minimize damage to the axle tube or new seals. It worked well, with nary a drop of gear oil escaping after replacing one axle shaft w a nicked journal.
1970FuryConv said:
If the new seal looks like it's been in the parts store system for a while, it probably has. I installed one from NAPA that lasted 1 month. Make sure new seal looks new. Easy job to replace.
Click to expand...

Easy to replace, and replace, and replace unless done right! Yes, the job is easy, but requires a bit of care. Carefully throttle anyone approaching with talk of Green bearings too, then render the carcass in quicklime for final disposal.
 
rags said:
you successfully diagnose your leak with little to no help from anyone. great job!
Click to expand...

It's easy enough. If your rear end moans around corners and curves, and you find thick, smelly oil on the rear brake shoes, then its time to replace some axle seals, bearings and such. I did so in January 2017 with happy results, though I would have to do the passenger axle shaft over in 2020 due to my clumsy, amateur nick in the journal. That wore on the seal, and sure as ****, it began to leak there. By 2020, I had some REAL shop tools, a 20 ton press, old Owatona Tool Co bearing splitter and such which made the job EZPZ. The cool thing was: I got those venerable, awesome tools from venerable old men who happily sold them to a relative youngster like myself. The damn old cowboy who sold me the press hauled it to Mathilda's trunk by his self, him being just 93...
 
Gerald Morris said:
Hell! Use an old brake drum for your "slide hammer." I did, and pulled my axle shafts easily.
I was talking about the seal, not the shaft. I have also heard of people drilling a screw hole in the seal, installing a screw, and pulling out the seal by grabbing the screw with pliers.
This operation is one which the utmost care possible should be used on. I made a nice seal driver from some SCH 40 PVC pipe, to minimize damage to the axle tube or new seals. It worked well, with nary a drop of gear oil escaping after replacing one axle shaft w a nicked journal.
I used a socket and it worked fine. It's been at least 6 years with no leaks. For me it was important to measure and assure that the seal was seated, then stop hammering.

Easy to replace, and replace, and replace unless done right! Yes, the job is easy, but requires a bit of care. Carefully throttle anyone approaching with talk of Green bearings too, then render the carcass in quicklime for final disposal.
Click to expand...
True that, I had green bearing fail at 28000 miles. Fortunately, no other cars were around. Unfortunately, the entire quarter was destroyed when the wheel and brake drum detached.:rofl:Quicklime might be too good for them.
 
Moser sells complete assemblys, but thats a lot of cash to spend. Looks like your on the right track to a proper repair.
 
1970FuryConv said:
True that, I had green bearing fail at 28000 miles. Fortunately, no other cars were around. Unfortunately, the entire quarter was destroyed when the wheel and brake drum detached.:rofl:Quicklime might be too good for them.
Click to expand...

It's too good for Green bearing pushers if still breathing, but it dissolves nasty, bloated remains well. I suppose their mental problem arises from constipation. Down here, we have the Saguaro Enema to help rectify such delusions. Works most EVERY Time!
 
Big_John said:
Just happened to think of these sleeves that are pressed on. Other companies make these too. Redi-Sleeves | The Timken Company

another Wear Sleeves | Bearing Service
Click to expand...

I did not know these sleeves were available. Might be just the trick to get the OP on the road to recovery. Another trick I heard about is to not drive the new inner seal all the way home in the axle housing. Drive it just far enough so that the seal contacts a good smooth surface that is away from the damaged / nicked area on the axle. Of course you hafta be sure the seal is straight and true and not cocked.
 
Ripinator said:
Drive it just far enough so that the seal contacts a good smooth surface that is away from the damaged / nicked area on the axle.
Click to expand...
was thinking that same thing. looking at the damaged axle, i can see two dark rings. one intersects the damaged area, the other further inboard. thinking they were made by the two areas of the seal that contact the axle. looking at the housing it appears that the seal is driven all the way in. it would be easy to check the depth of the oil seal surface to see if it's contacting the damaged area of the axle. if it's only the outer dust seal surface area of the seal, i'd polish the high spots off those diggers with a cookie wheel, grease it, reseal the housing and try it.
 
Ripinator said:
I did not know these sleeves were available. Might be just the trick to get the OP on the road to recovery. Another trick I heard about is to not drive the new inner seal all the way home in the axle housing. Drive it just far enough so that the seal contacts a good smooth surface that is away from the damaged / nicked area on the axle. Of course you hafta be sure the seal is straight and true and not cocked.
Click to expand...
One can even drive in 2 seals, or contrive some other spacer to avoid the compromised inner surface. The repair sleeves, being from Timken, look very promising. I'd try those if I had such a problem.
 
Redi sleeves are very effective and simple to use. They are made of stainless steel and as such will wear longer than the original surface. Since they are several thousandths thick, the seal will be just that bit tighter as well. I have used them on engine front seals as well as in machines with 4 to 6 inch shafts with excellent results in hostile situations. I'd do it in a heart beat! Lindsay
 
I sanded the axle smooth, repacked the bearing, installed a new seal at a different depth, added some 70W90. Test drive tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Thx
 
MJFUR said:
I sanded the axle smooth, repacked the bearing, installed a new seal at a different depth, added some 70W90. Test drive tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Thx
Click to expand...
Yeah those divots didn't look all that bad to me most likely were done in the collar removal process with a errant cold chisel strike. I would've just fine filed it down then some Emory cloth, (heck you can even go so far as wet stoning it for a final polish) then install a good USA quality seal and as the Aussie's say "Bob's yer Unkl".


:thumbsup:
 
Went for a 25 mile drive, no leaks so far. The diff still grinds and pops when turning left though.
 
MJFUR said:
Went for a 25 mile drive, no leaks so far. The diff still grinds and pops when turning left though.
Click to expand...

Go to the MOPAR Parts counter and pick up two bottles of Sure Grip additive and pour one of them in the diff. You may or may not need the second bottle.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
8 3/4 diff/axle noise in Reverse
Replies
5
Views
337
66 Monaco 500 365
66 Monaco 500 365
Zip
Axle end play problem
Replies
11
Views
1K
jmustian
jmustian
M
8 3/4 Diff Dilemma
2
Replies
20
Views
8K
66 Monaco 500 365
66 Monaco 500 365
MoPar~Man
NOT MINE 1969 Dodge Monaco 500 383 Auto 2dr Coupe (Martensville, SK Canada) $22k (16k USD)
Replies
9
Views
4K
Fratzog
Fratzog
70bigblockdodge
Old car and a road trip.
Replies
12
Views
3K
GORDON DREW
GORDON DREW
Back
Top