Axle Removal questions…
- Thread starter TROUB
- Start date
57fury440
Well-Known Member
If it's an 8 & 3/4 axle the there are no C-Clips. When you remove the brake drums you will see the nuts holding the axles in. There is a hole in the axle flange so you can get a socket in the take off the nuts. It's a pretty easy job.
As said, you'll see the nuts you need to remove holding the backing plates on. Here's a tip... The axles might slide right out or they might stick a little. Turn the drums around and mount them back on the axles. They have to be loose so they slide on the studs. This makes for an easy slide hammer to pull the axles.
70DartMike
Active Member
Be careful when pulling to not let the axle rest on the axle tube seals, you can damage them.
All '65 Chrysler New Yorkers had 8 3/4" rear ends that do not use c-clips. This rear end is a 3rd member type that drops out of the housing. Axles are held in by a 5 bolt flange on either side. Down load the FSM at www.mymopar.com it is free. The manuals are in the tools/reference section. The manual gives detailed rear axle removal instructions.
Dave
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
1st we need to know if you have an 8.75 inch type axle. It has a removable differential, that removes from the front like the axle pictured below. It does not have an oil pan at the rear, that you would remove to access C-clips. As stated before it does not have a C-clips..
The 2nd point is that the nuts to remove an axle are on studs that go through brake backing plate and the plate that is pictured to the rear of the wheel hub on this 8.75 inch axle shaft. On the right side one of them has an adjuster fitting. It is very important when you reinstall the axle shafts to install them with correct end play. If the end play is something you can barely feel, you probably got it right.
Studs
A 3rd question is why are you removing the axle shafts? In other words, what symptom is causing you to remove them? Maybe we can help with the problem. Thanks and good luck! Ben
Removing the shafts and differential to shorten the housing to fit an A-Body Dart. The Newport is a Parts car that’s donating it’s 8 3/4 housing and it’s 383 as well. I’m used to dealing with 7 1/4 diffs so need all the knowledge I can get! Plan is to get new axles from Doc Diff as I believe these early C-Bodies have axles that aren’t long enough to shorten and get resplined for A-Body size. Thanks to you all for the help. Nothings ever easy if you haven’t done it before.
8 3/4 axles come out just like 7 1/4 axles.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Hi Troub
I had a 1968 Dart, that I converted using factory 8.75 housing. I pulled the axles from a 1973 pickup with an 8.75 rear; it was in a junkyard. I had them shortened. The tapered axle bearings were still good, and are much stronger than ball bearings when cornering.
In trying to think about a thread where I did some explanation on 8.75 inch axle install, my 1972 Fury thread may give you some help. The link to page 27 of the thread that is below is a good place to start.
1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles
I sold the Dart because I wanted to focus on my dream car which was 1970 Fury convertible 440/727/8.75. That’s a nice thread too and I put a lot of work into explaining the machinist details of building a big block. With the 383, you might get something out of that thread as well.
1970 Fury III Convertible 126115 miles: Intro & Planned 440/727 Swap
Feel free to add your questions to either thread. Someone else might have the same question.
Best of luck! Sounds like you're an A-body man. I know all C bodies can’t be saved because of rust. However if you do save 1, please share it with us. Either way, as a fellow Mopar man, you're always welcome here!
BenSimilar threads
