B body gas tank, in a c body?

Just bought a spectrum tank for a 68 Roadrunner instead of the Fury tank. Note how the straps are offset but it is mounted solid with no problems Joe

nice thats exactly what I'm doing, do you by chance remember what the model tank you got was? CR9C is what I ordered...
 
so tank came in, compared to my old one, its about 2-3 inches longer which I think should be fine. I just ordered the filler neck grommet and I am trying to source the tank pad...can I just go to a fabrics store and get some kind of felt and cut it to size?

I also googled it and saw people using roofing tar paper as a suitable replacement...what are your thoughts?
 
I have one from a 63 that looks to have been coated on the outside already. Located in Ripon, WI, looking for 75 out of it. I may ship it. It has been empty of fuel for a while now.
 
I vote for the roofing paper. Felt will hold way too much water and you'll be doing another tank and the trunk floor a whole lot sooner than you'd planned.

If you REALLY want to kill two birds with one stone, go to the roofing supply place and ask for Glace Ice Shield. That's what the NASCAR guys use as bear-bond. It repels water and it'll also act like a bit of a sound insulator.

If you live in Florida, the roofing places have probably never heard of it.........
 
seems like a stupid question, but does the fuel filter go before the fuel pump? or after, in between the pump and carburetor?
 
stock replacement http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/prod/All/FG143A ohm rating 10 to 70 ohms

and the possible replacements are 10 to 80 ohms
http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/prod/All/FG68A
http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/prod/All/FG129A

any issues in the 10 ohm difference?
Note that some models are "10 to 80 ohm" and others "80 to 10 ohms". If doesn't say which value is full & which is empty. I recall that Mopar's are ~10 ohm full, 70 ohm empty. Search in the A-body forum for better info. I don't recall Mopar ever changed, between body sizes or years. The reverse action is Ford senders, I recall. GM is something like 0 to 90 ohm. Google to find exact values. Anyway, 10 ohm around the 70 ohm value wouldn't matter much. To get it perfect, you might need to add a trim resistor, either series or parallel. If you install a later electronic dash "voltage limiter" (smart idea, $30 ebay), you can trim the 5 V output to make one reading exact (isn't "empty" most critical?), but that would also affect your coolant temperature reading.

A 3/8" outlet would be smart if you ever plan an EFI fuel pump, say for electronic fuel injection (like me), though 5/16" still works for normal engines, like Magnum engines (small block) w/ MPFI. You can usually squeeze 3/8" rubber hose to clamp tight on 5/16" tubing. Install only "fuel injection" hose today. The cheap carburetor hose doesn't deal well with ethanol and you don't want to change the sender hose again, or worry about it collapsing under suction if it softens from ethanol.
 
View attachment 36551This is a b-body tank on my 1968 Fury

View attachment 36551
I also have a Fury (1967), and I was thinking about using a Coronet tank & sending unit. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind my asking.

1- our tanks are 23 gallon, I believe, but most b-body tanks are 19 gallon. Do you notice a big difference?
2- does having a smaller tank affect the gas gauge? is the needle off at all?
3- do I have to seal the inside of the new tank? or does it come sealed?

Your car looks awesome from underneath BTW.

Thanks in advance!
 
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