Backfire, wont start.

After sitting so long...it might yes. These oil pumps are aircraft grade mechanical pumps. Not often they fail. But who knows what the pickup is sitting in.

I pulled my pan to paint it and the whole bottom was full of lead resin from the leaded gas it used to run. Was a clear ring where the pickup was sitting.

Amsoil? Good stuff. I'm running VR-1 for the high zinc level.
 
The complete ign upgrade was bought through recommended cbodies vendor, came with dist, coil, resistor. Upgraded harness from bill evans, era correct plug wires also through cbodies vendor. Champion plugs.
How's the harness? I was thinking of rewiring mine...it's brittle. Everytime I work on it I have to heat up the wires with a heat gun for some flexibility.
 
Bill Evans did my engine compartment harness. Ignition/charging, came with updates for electronic. Oil sending unit plug and temp sending unit and horn circuit. I replaced the bulkhead, got new terminal ends and color correct wire to resplice under dash. Wont Never do that again! But it looks good.
 
I have never had to attempt this, whats the best method?
Man... I'm not sure for a Mopar. For a SBC you spun the distributor gear with a special attachment for a drill.

You could take off your valve covers and crank the motor with no coil attached. You should get oil out of the pushrods at some point. That will tell you your getting pressure. Keep in mind you replaced your harness... You might just have a pressure switch issue. If it worked before you replaced the harness, I'd be looking at the wiring.
 
Was not an issue before wiring problem. Dont if when i tried to start it last weekend and huge backfire through exhaust, if something happened internally.
 
Ok.. hold it there then. It might be that you need to take off those valve covers and inspect your push rods and such. It's worth the aggravation.

Don't run the motor thinking it's going to settle down.

You can then safely run the oil pump and make sure you're getting flow to the top of the motor. If you bent a pushrod, it's only going to get worse. Running the motor will cause something to jam up and break.

Someone else posted recently that was running a car that sat a while, backfired...blew out the muffler on the driver's side. Turns out it broke the lifter and bent the pushrod as well. The rods are designed to do that to avoid leaving the valve in the open position in case there is a problem.

It's not the end of the motor. He replaced the broken lifter and the rod and went on his way. These Mopar blocks are tough blocks. So dive in there and take a look. Post pics
 
Here's the thread. Look at page 5 and up from there

'65 New Yorker bringing it back to life thread-

I'm not trying to put the fear of God in you with this ..it's just from what it sounds...you need to check a few more things before you do any damage. Imagine backfire is like a bomb going off in a cylinder. Never know what it might do. Could have jumped a timing chain tooth... All sorts of bad **** can happen if the detonation is bad enough.

Could also be something as simple as having too much retard in your timing. Seeing you just swapped from points to electronic... You HAVE to adjust your timing as well. And your motor will sound like a total disaster if your timing is way off...ask me how I know that ..

One check at a time.
 
Here's the thread. Look at page 5 and up from there

'65 New Yorker bringing it back to life thread-

I'm not trying to put the fear of God in you with this ..it's just from what it sounds...you need to check a few more things before you do any damage. Imagine backfire is like a bomb going off in a cylinder. Never know what it might do. Could have jumped a timing chain tooth... All sorts of bad **** can happen if the detonation is bad enough.

Could also be something as simple as having too much retard in your timing. Seeing you just swapped from points to electronic... You HAVE to adjust your timing as well. And your motor will sound like a total disaster if your timing is way off...ask me how I know that ..

One check at a time.
Thats what I was kind of worried about. Already had left side off, didnt see anything unusual. It does have a slight miss to it also. It already had electronic conversions done, after resistors and coils starting to go out, found bulkhead burned out, lots of ugly wires. Motor ran perfect before that. Decided to replace all and start over. The back fire was my fault. Going to keep ckng, definately am not running any more until i'm sure.
 
Thats what I was kind of worried about. Already had left side off, didnt see anything unusual. It does have a slight miss to it also. It already had electronic conversions done, after resistors and coils starting to go out, found bulkhead burned out, lots of ugly wires. Motor ran perfect before that. Decided to replace all and start over. The back fire was my fault. Going to keep ckng, definately am not running any more until i'm sure.

Did you adjust your timing after installing the electronic ignition?
 
Did you adjust your timing after installing the electronic ignition?
I put dist back almost exactly where i took out the old one, did fire right up. Dont want to run it to ck but dont think is my biggest concern at this time. Oil pressure, need to get my tick tick tick to go away first, dont think that will be atiming issue.
 
I'll say this about the Pertronix, it was way off from the dual points and I had a hell of a time starting my motor. Until I jumped out and spun my dizzy around 20 degrees to get it running smooth.

I realize your not running that system, but seems like something similar in that you changed out the whole ignition harness, dizzy, coil and all.. and now it's running like ****.
 
I'll say this about the Pertronix, it was way off from the dual points and I had a hell of a time starting my motor. Until I jumped out and spun my dizzy around 20 degrees to get it running smooth.

I realize your not running that system, but seems like something similar in that you changed out the whole ignition harness, dizzy, coil and all.. and now it's running like ****.
I think when i get oil/lifter issue taken care of it should be good. When it backfired I created another problem.
 
If you bent a pushrod, it's possible that a lifter came up out of the bore. That would cause you not to have oil pressure. Also have seen the pushrod pierce through the rocker arm more than a couple times.
 
If you bent a pushrod, it's possible that a lifter came up out of the bore. That would cause you not to have oil pressure. Also have seen the pushrod pierce through the rocker arm more than a couple times.
I've also seen the springs in the lifter break and cause the same issues
 
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