Bimetal exhaust manifold spring

Zymurgy

Old Man with a Hat
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I need to replace the bimetal exhaust manifold spring on my 383. I can't find anything specific to the 383 engine are they some what universal? Anyone buy one from a certain supplier that worked for them?

Bimetal manifold spring.jpg

Bimetal manifold spring.jpg
 
Question? What is the purpose for the heat riser? Prevent carb icing or cold weather driveablility? If for icing couldn't one just remove it and let the car warm up when it's very cold and humid? If for driveability that would be a different story. I'm confused!

 
Here is a heat riser on ebay, you will note it says for a six cylinder but to my knowledge they are all the same. Im pretty sure about this, they used to be readily available but it seems they arent made any more.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MASSEY-1039...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ded7dde6&vxp=mtr

Below I have included a link to a specific unit for the big block chryslers, you will note the kit is indentical to the first post, and the first one is half the price :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-NOS-6...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d16e2ca28&vxp=mtr
 
The heat riser works when the air is cold, winter etc, and it is closed on start up. What happens is it forces the hot exhaust gases back up through the crossover tube under the carb in the inlet manifold causing the system to heat up enough to operate properly in a shorter period of time. The riser will open and allow proper passage of gas after that.
 
The heat riser works when the air is cold, winter etc, and it is closed on start up. What happens is it forces the hot exhaust gases back up through the crossover tube under the carb in the inlet manifold causing the system to heat up enough to operate properly in a shorter period of time. The riser will open and allow proper passage of gas after that.

Let's see if I got this right. If it is stuck open the carb will not ice over if let to warm up slowly hence no stall. After warming up and the riser is open...no problem with driveability. So, if I don't want to spend about $100 for a kit, I don't have to. Correct?
 
Let's see if I got this right. If it is stuck open the carb will not ice over if let to warm up slowly hence no stall. After warming up and the riser is open...no problem with driveability. So, if I don't want to spend about $100 for a kit, I don't have to. Correct?
Yup that's it basically in a nutshell :)
 
Why not permanently open yours or remove it all together and plug the holes?

This looks like the route I am going to take. I have not really had any issues with cold starts so far and don't plan on driving it when it's cold anyway. Thanks for the input everyone.
 
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