Boy, I'm a believer in claying the car now!

furious70

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I've never done it but over the winter I clayed the in hellcat because I got into some tar and orange spots. That was tough because it was cold, eventually i figured out to use the hair dryer to help.
The fury was painted in 1999. It was never buffed out enough as the guy lost his shop and actually finished in our shop but didn't do a great job. Even though i waxed it a fair bit over the years it's been really rough feeling for a long time. The clay turned black in a hurry, lots of stuff embedded in the paint.
It's not perfect paint now since it never was, but it's a lot smoother to the touch now. I'm sure a polish and wax would help even more now.
 
I've never done it but over the winter I clayed the in hellcat because I got into some tar and orange spots. That was tough because it was cold, eventually i figured out to use the hair dryer to help.
The fury was painted in 1999. It was never buffed out enough as the guy lost his shop and actually finished in our shop but didn't do a great job. Even though i waxed it a fair bit over the years it's been really rough feeling for a long time. The clay turned black in a hurry, lots of stuff embedded in the paint.
It's not perfect paint now since it never was, but it's a lot smoother to the touch now. I'm sure a polish and wax would help even more now.
Before / after pics?
 
It's not something you see so much as feel. Though I imagine in the right light you could see it. I didn't take any photos yet, I've done the top surfaces which is what contaminates fall in mostly of course. Still need to do the sides
 
A while back, I saw a hack of using "plumbers putty" to take the place of the clay bar item in that activity. Allegedly works pretty good, at a lower cost.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
It's not something you see so much as feel. Though I imagine in the right light you could see it. I didn't take any photos yet, I've done the top surfaces which is what contaminates fall in mostly of course. Still need to do the sides
The paint becomes smooth to the touch.

The test was to take a cigarette wrapper and put it on your fingers and rub against the paint. You'll feel it drag if the car needs claying.

The really nice thing about it is the car doesn't get as dirty. Use the right wax etc. after claying and the finish gets a "slickness" that won't let the dirt stick.
 
Claying the paint on my cars is something I have been doing for a few years now .
It really made a difference when my daily driver caught some paint overspray from ?? while parked at work one day.
My next purchase is going to be synthetic clay that is supposedly washable and reusable.
 
I can't live without the clay ever since I found it. Autogeek has a write up on it - was the first step in deep cleaning all hard surfaces (paint, glass, chrome) before the paint restoration on the gold Lincoln. The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints (other members have posted this link before)

Clay is a must before you buff, lets the buffer work the paint and not the fallout on the surface, keeps the pad cleaner and temps lower.

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Do the towel-toss test before and after.
Toss it across the hood or roof before you clay it. Reach up and grab it, keep it for afterward.

Clay the car, wax it, and toss the towel again.
This time, walk around the car and pick it up off the floor.
 
I've had a claybar kit for a couple years and keep meaning to do the wagon and the coronet. Do you use one claybar per vehicle or can you do more than one?
 
I've got a synthetic clay "bar" and I just clean it real good with Dawn when it gets dirty. Done 4 vehicles so far and ready for a 5th. Then I'll probably replace it.
 
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