Brake light switch /w cruise control fix

[Captainfury]

Last couple of days I've been working on trying to get my cruise control working again and found that in fact the cruise part of my brake light switch had gone bad. When looking online th non cruise switches are readily available, but the cruise ones are hard to find. The one NOS I found was 125$ and that's just too much for me. So I figured I'd give it a go and try and fix my switch, even though its another one of those non servicable parts, and provide some pictures of the internals for the rest of you and show how it works.

This is from my '75 Imperial but I think the switch is used across many years and models. Don't mind the cut wire, that was me and I'll patch it later.
View attachment 479080

The blue wire connectors are mounted on the cap of the white plastic housing. The cap is glued on but with a sharp slim knife I was able to break the connection cleanly by being careful and going all the way around and not just force it at one end.

Components:
View attachment 479081
Center white stalk operates both switches simultaneously. Normal condition is pushed in with open circuit in break lights part and closed circuit with cruise control part. When pressing brake pedal switch is extended closing brake circuit and opening cruise circuit.

Cruise:
View attachment 479086View attachment 479085
Brake:
View attachment 479087View attachment 479088

The first problem with cruise part of the switch was center stalk, you can see some spots on the narrow right side. Plastic deteriorated so that it was out of round causing cruise circuit to be open all the time. Sanding it down with some fine grit sanding paper was enough. Second issue was that somehow, on the cap, the copper rivet lost it's connection to the brass wire connector. Some soldering fixed that.
View attachment 479089View attachment 479090

Hope this helps anyone with a broken cruise control switch.

To thethee,
I’m currently going through a number of VERY similar issues to what you have expressed in this thread. I have the ( almost) same NOS stop light/constant speed switch for my 72 Fury gran sedan.
The first unusual thing I noted is that your switch has a threaded plunger end whereas mine is smooth/unthreaded. That’s interesting. I was going to use the cheaper non original ones but they all seem to be brake light control only, and as I want her to be totally original, with constant speed function overhauled soon I bought the Mopar switch. But my biggest issue now is getting the bracket and stop light switch installed. The FSM has some top and side on views, but as to exact holes that the bolt and notch fit is left out of the FSM. I can see that the bracket goes inside the 2 outer main steel plates, but whichever holes I line it up with seems to require that I grind off the small tab for adjusting its position, which means I’m off track somewhere. My earlier post tonight has pics. Do you know how it may fit? I am really stuck and living in Sydney means that there’s almost no support down here. Any advice is warmly welcomed.
Cheers and Thank you.