Broke my ignition switch and need help with starting

[Hansson72]

Hi Guys...
I was just at the winter garage and was going to take out the old beast.....
With a fresh battery and squirt of gas down the holes i was now ready to hear the greatest sound in the world.... Turned the key and the engine cranked half a turn and then the key just "boink", No ignition and no cranking. The steering lock goes off just fine but the ignition switch has broke. No resistans at all when i turn the key. So.... now I need your expertise of how to make a temporary wiring in the engine compartmen so I can drive it home to my own garage.
The car is a 1971 300....
Is it enough with + from battery to + on the coil and then jump the solenid at the starter or is something else?

 

[NY69]

Hi,
First of all, I really, really like your sunroof car.
In my 21 years of mopar ownership it only happened once that I got the itch to buy another one and sell the New Yorker, and that was when your car popped up for sale here in the Netherlands. I still feel regret that it sold before I could get to it.
If you were the buyer in 2014 you did a good deal; I'd love to see more pictures of your car.

For as far as I can tell, as long as your steering lock is off, you should be able to start and drive it the way you described.

 

[Hansson72]

Yep i was the buyer in 2014 i bought the car from "moparmania" in Gronningen.... and I have never regret that deal. I can post a couple of new pictures when the car is home...

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Wire from battery (positive) to single wire side of ballast resistor (keep you from cooking the coil), then jump the terminals on the starter relay(make sure it's in neutral or park because you will be eliminating the neutral safety switch and starting it outside driver seat).
You will not have turn signals or wipers so use caution.

 

[Hansson72]

Wire from battery (positive) to single wire side of ballast resistor (keep you from cooking the coil), then jump the terminals on the starter relay(make sure it's in neutral or park because you will be eliminating the neutral safety switch and starting it outside driver seat).
You will not have turn signals or wipers so use caution.

Thanks .....so no positive wire to the +coil then?

 

[NY69]

If your car has a ballast resistor, to the ballast resistor. If it doesn't, to the + of the coil. I assumed a 71 doesn't have a resistor anymore.

 

[Hansson72]

Great... thanks. It has a resistor...

 

[Gerald Morris]

Great... thanks. It has a resistor...

When FIRST starting, you might want to make a second jumper DIRECTLY TO THE + TERMINAL on the coil, BUT, be SURE to pull THAT one loose as soon as the engine is started and running a minute or less, so long as it runs smooth. Keep the hot wire to the ballast resistor all along. If this seems confusing, just hotwire the ballast resistor. You engine should get normal spark voltage at that.

You should be able to bump the starter over easily enough just by shorting the battery terminal on the top of the relay to the middle terminal. You can use a screwdriver, keyring, pliers et cetera to do that. You might want to prime the carburetor using your foot before getting out to do this sort of start.

Good Luck!

 

[live4theking]

Wire from battery (positive) to single wire side of ballast resistor (keep you from cooking the coil), then jump the terminals on the starter relay(make sure it's in neutral or park because you will be eliminating the neutral safety switch and starting it outside driver seat).
You will not have turn signals or wipers so use caution.

Make sure that you use a heavy enough gauge of wire and some strong alligator clips if you don't attach it in a more "temporary permanent" fashion. I think you should still have brake lights, but it might be a good idea to have a chase vehicle that knows the situation and exactly where you're going.

When FIRST starting, you might want to make a second jumper DIRECTLY TO THE + TERMINAL on the coil, BUT, be SURE to pull THAT one loose as soon as the engine is started and running a minute or less, so long as it runs smooth. Keep the hot wire to the ballast resistor all along. If this seems confusing, just hotwire the ballast resistor. You engine should get normal spark voltage at that.

You should be able to bump the starter over easily enough just by shorting the battery terminal on the top of the relay to the middle terminal. You can use a screwdriver, keyring, pliers et cetera to do that. You might want to prime the carburetor using your foot before getting out to do this sort of start.

Good Luck!

I've done this a number of times on a 68, I don't think there is any need for running a wire to the coil.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Thanks .....so no positive wire to the +coil then?

Well yes sort of, but you will be going through the ballast resistor which limits current flow through the coil making not overheat. If it is a extremely short drive / if you stealing the car and don't care about future life of the coil you can go directly to positive. The double wire side of the ballast resistor is the bypass, sending full voltage/amps to coil while heavy amperage load is being drawn by the starter motor allowing quicker starts, this is what Gerald was mentioning. I think you will be fine on a first start (cold coil) on a normal temperature day (no blizzard). You should use decent size wire as amp load is petty good 12-14 should be good.
Brake lights will work.
Good luck.

 

[Hansson72]

Next try will be on monday... il come back with the result.... Thanks for all your help...

 

[Hansson72]

So close today.... all wires connected as above.... some starterjuice down the carb....
Screwdriver straight into the relay... and then the great sound of a 440 TNT...
Can you imagine the feeling.... when I realise that i cant get the stick from P to D....
Arrgghhh... didn’t have the time today but i hope that can be fixed if I remove the steering wheel and tumbler...