Yes, but I believe all fusie pedals take the plastic bushings. Only HP engine (so 318/360/383-2bbl excluded) cars got the needle bearing pivots. There was no manual trans HP '69-'71 C-body.
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c bodies 65 through 72 clutch peddle parts build
- Thread starter pomonamissel
- Start date
pomonamissel
Senior Member
in the peddle arm where it pivets on the bolt going through the peddle assembly bracket , hp cars have a needle bearing that is stronger then the nylon bushing type .
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
71 and still learning.
I wouldnt worry much about having the needle bearing pivots. There is a member over on the A-body site who machines replacement HD bronze bushings for mopar pedal assemblys. Imo that is more then overkill for any of us.
[FOR SALE] - New bronze clutch and brake pedal bushings
I will have to double check my 383-2bbl pedals to see if they have the HD roller bearings or bushings. I do know the 383 fusies had a solid 1 piece pedal to Z-bar rod while the /6-318 pedals are 2 piece with a rubber isolator in the middle.
[FOR SALE] - New bronze clutch and brake pedal bushings
I will have to double check my 383-2bbl pedals to see if they have the HD roller bearings or bushings. I do know the 383 fusies had a solid 1 piece pedal to Z-bar rod while the /6-318 pedals are 2 piece with a rubber isolator in the middle.
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pomonamissel
Senior Member
@commando1 i learn everyday i don't know it all , lol
DeMopuar
Member
Any update to the hump stamping operation? I'd be interested in two C body humps for fuselage cars.
pomonamissel
Senior Member
i need to go bug him on thursday
Jon M
New Member
Just now seeing this thread. Exciting news about the clutch/ brake pedal assembly. Has there been any progress?
On a side note... I’m considering switching to manual brake setup in an effort to convert my car to a 5 speed.
65 Polara 383 2 door HT.
On a side note... I’m considering switching to manual brake setup in an effort to convert my car to a 5 speed.
65 Polara 383 2 door HT.
nystateofmind
New Member
Boy am I glad I came across this thread! I already have the pedal assembly for my 65 New Yorker but thought I might be hunting forever for the tunnel hump and Z bar. Put me down for both and keep us posted on any updates!
Also, what would folks recommend in terms of refreshing a 4 speed pedal assembly? I'm thinking just inspect the plastic bushings, grease the pivot points and call it a day?
Also, what would folks recommend in terms of refreshing a 4 speed pedal assembly? I'm thinking just inspect the plastic bushings, grease the pivot points and call it a day?
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68customsub
New Member
Nice first post. Please start a thread about the car, I'd love to see more pictures of it!
Dads300
Active Member
Any movement on these humps or bellcranks? How ‘bout the guy fab’in pedals?
Travis
Travis
pomonamissel
Senior Member
merry christmas to all , no word on my humps , my humps are getting no action do to larger jobs / if i was to make several hundred to a thousand at a time the humps would get more priority . nut my still trying to get them done , along with bell cranks or z bars as well as frame mounts .
fury fan
Senior Member
Z-bar:
From my memory of this years ago, there wasn't a shelf-stock tubing size with an ID to match the ball-pivot's bushing.
Not a problem to get the ID opened up on a lathe, which then also gives a stop to not poke the bushing 1/2-way down the tube during installation.
You can get the arms/ears laser-cut (or sheared manually) at a local fab shop. The ears need an arc cutout for the tubing, though, so lasering might be easiest.
There are a number of online fabshops that will make almost anything you want and give near-immediate quotes. (emachineahop.com is one example)
Some have online CAD software, to draw the geometry and submit for a near-immediate online quote (meaning, no salesman will bother you).
You can play with the fab processes to see how to cut cost, and the sites usually have some pointers also (like opening tolerances, reducing surface finish and flatness, etc).
You'd need to figure out the pivot pins that go on the ears, and if there are any hardness requirements between the pins and/or the rods that the Z-bar actuates.
Would be a shame to make parts that wear out prematurely.
It would be a pretty simple jig to hold the ears in location for welding - meaning, you could make a jig on a workbench, and likely have all pieces affixed for welding in a few minutes or less (no 6-sigma SMED needed here).
Or - just buy a Z-bar from Brewers for $89.95 + shipping.
Humps:
I had one of these years ago to check for fitment, the tower area and rear formed lip are spot-on for a 65 C-body, where it wraps over the top of the tunnel is definitely something to modify. And it's now $280.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
My take:
I sold a bit of 4-speed pedals, humps, etc ~15-ish years ago.
Most guys, when I gave them the shopping list of everythign they needed, and they learned that they needed a lot more than just pedals and a transmission - their interest quickly evaporated.
I'm not saying that the guys here (in this thread, that is) are that way - just that the list of guys that will actually buy the parts and follow-thru with a conversion is pretty short.
Which means some of the parts you sell will compete with you in the future, when guys give up and sell them on here. (I once saw a set of my pedals sell on ebay, I recognized the return-spring pin I made, the seller told me he had gotten them from the guy I sold them to -- so 2 guys bailed on a conversion)
This might be a little different nowadays due to Tremecs and T-56 being available (those guys don't need repro humps and clutch/engine-fitment parts) but Passon's bolt-in OD and 5-speed units would require OEM-style humps, bellhousing, clutch actuation, etc).
As the years pass guys are more likely to have the income to do the conversions, and maybe less likely to be interested in doing it.
Overall, IMHO, the ROI on all of this simply isn't there. (sorry to be a debbie-downer)
From my memory of this years ago, there wasn't a shelf-stock tubing size with an ID to match the ball-pivot's bushing.
Not a problem to get the ID opened up on a lathe, which then also gives a stop to not poke the bushing 1/2-way down the tube during installation.
You can get the arms/ears laser-cut (or sheared manually) at a local fab shop. The ears need an arc cutout for the tubing, though, so lasering might be easiest.
There are a number of online fabshops that will make almost anything you want and give near-immediate quotes. (emachineahop.com is one example)
Some have online CAD software, to draw the geometry and submit for a near-immediate online quote (meaning, no salesman will bother you).
You can play with the fab processes to see how to cut cost, and the sites usually have some pointers also (like opening tolerances, reducing surface finish and flatness, etc).
You'd need to figure out the pivot pins that go on the ears, and if there are any hardness requirements between the pins and/or the rods that the Z-bar actuates.
Would be a shame to make parts that wear out prematurely.
It would be a pretty simple jig to hold the ears in location for welding - meaning, you could make a jig on a workbench, and likely have all pieces affixed for welding in a few minutes or less (no 6-sigma SMED needed here).
Or - just buy a Z-bar from Brewers for $89.95 + shipping.
Humps:
I had one of these years ago to check for fitment, the tower area and rear formed lip are spot-on for a 65 C-body, where it wraps over the top of the tunnel is definitely something to modify. And it's now $280.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
My take:
I sold a bit of 4-speed pedals, humps, etc ~15-ish years ago.
Most guys, when I gave them the shopping list of everythign they needed, and they learned that they needed a lot more than just pedals and a transmission - their interest quickly evaporated.
I'm not saying that the guys here (in this thread, that is) are that way - just that the list of guys that will actually buy the parts and follow-thru with a conversion is pretty short.
Which means some of the parts you sell will compete with you in the future, when guys give up and sell them on here. (I once saw a set of my pedals sell on ebay, I recognized the return-spring pin I made, the seller told me he had gotten them from the guy I sold them to -- so 2 guys bailed on a conversion)
This might be a little different nowadays due to Tremecs and T-56 being available (those guys don't need repro humps and clutch/engine-fitment parts) but Passon's bolt-in OD and 5-speed units would require OEM-style humps, bellhousing, clutch actuation, etc).
As the years pass guys are more likely to have the income to do the conversions, and maybe less likely to be interested in doing it.
Overall, IMHO, the ROI on all of this simply isn't there. (sorry to be a debbie-downer)
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Brewers sells the Z-bar new these days:
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
The clutch pedal to z-bar rod is the same as an early B-body iirc along with the clutch fork.
Really the only things that need reproducing is the floor hump and the frame mount for the z-bar.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
The clutch pedal to z-bar rod is the same as an early B-body iirc along with the clutch fork.
Really the only things that need reproducing is the floor hump and the frame mount for the z-bar.
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gyknot
Active Member
I am one of the early guys interested in the hump. I had planned to modify my 6cyl Z bar and of course already have pedals.
The older I get, the more I like the idea of keeping the car original with the slant 6 and 3 on the tree. If I do, I won't need a hump either.
I'm finding the older I get, the less inclined I am to do modifications for power or speed. I'm just fine with something different as long as I don't end up holding up traffic.
If the humps ever get made, I'd still grab one to have it, but if they don't, I'll be ok too.
The older I get, the more I like the idea of keeping the car original with the slant 6 and 3 on the tree. If I do, I won't need a hump either.
I'm finding the older I get, the less inclined I am to do modifications for power or speed. I'm just fine with something different as long as I don't end up holding up traffic.
If the humps ever get made, I'd still grab one to have it, but if they don't, I'll be ok too.
fury fan
Senior Member
You must've just skimmed my manifesto - I already mentioned Brewers.
But good on ya for putting the link. 
For the frame mount, it really shouldn't be reproduced as it's so simple - it's just a matter of getting the ball-pivot location at the right location and height from the framerail.
And with that said - I think it would be a real bear to weld a factory bracket into an assembled car. Either to be able to get an electrode holder in there, or to see what you're doing (or both).
So whatever bracket is designed, it should incorporate features to allow it to bolt-in somehow. Or maybe straddle the frame a bit for a lap-joint weld from underneath the car.
I don't know off-hand if the framerails sides are non-parallel at that location, but if so, that would make a neat poka-yoke feature - slide the saddle-channel rearward until it stops moving, and clamp it for welding from underneath. Can't remember if there's a weld seam on top of the frame rail, if so, that might make it difficult to get the pivot-ball hole low enough, IIRC it's not far above the frame.
rd92west
plan C
This is the frame bracket to hold torque tube. This guy sits straight up. The frame is angled up.
I figure it would be next to impossible to weld it in with the engine in place. Maybe without exhaust manifolds and master cylinder and booster removed.
I set the engine and bellhousing in and positioned the torque tube, then scratched Mark's on the frame were the bracket needed to go.
I pulled the engine. Tacked the bracket in place. Put engine and bell back in to double check. Pulled the engine out and welded.
This bracket is from a 65 polara.
I used it for a pattern, whipped one up.
This bracket is the easy part of the conversion. The hump is the problem. But not really that big of a problem for someone who can weld and create.
If you figure you need a 4 speed and your having a shop do everything then I feel bad for you. If you can do **** for yourself it can be done on the cheap
I figure it would be next to impossible to weld it in with the engine in place. Maybe without exhaust manifolds and master cylinder and booster removed.
I set the engine and bellhousing in and positioned the torque tube, then scratched Mark's on the frame were the bracket needed to go.
I pulled the engine. Tacked the bracket in place. Put engine and bell back in to double check. Pulled the engine out and welded.
This bracket is from a 65 polara.
I used it for a pattern, whipped one up.
This bracket is the easy part of the conversion. The hump is the problem. But not really that big of a problem for someone who can weld and create.
If you figure you need a 4 speed and your having a shop do everything then I feel bad for you. If you can do **** for yourself it can be done on the cheap
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