C-Body Front Rotors on 73-Up A, B or E-Body Disk Brake Spindles? Will any fit?

'Cuda_ragtop

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Newbie here..
Greeting and salutations all!

I am a Member of, FABO, FBBO, FEBO and now FCBO...
No C-Body in my stable but hope one of you can help me with a C-Body Front Brake Rotor question.
Maybe someone here has done this before...

Building a 69 Barracuda g3 hemi swap resto-mod.
Car has 73-up, front disk spindles, New Yorker/Cordoba Pin on Calipers/Brackets and 11.75" Rotors
Question is, will any of the big C-Body (1.25" thick) front rotors bolt directly to my 73+ A, B, E, body spindles?

$64,000 question: Will either of these Front Rotors work on my NON C-Body Spindles? Or other C-Body 1.25" thick rotors with 5x4.5" bolt circle?

For 1973 I see Bendix PRT1072 listed as 5x4.5" bolt circle.
1740438173641.png



For 1974 there is Bendix PRT1146 also 5x4.5" BC. 1974
1740438361577.png


The project car.

1740439207204.png

TIA.

Randy D.
 
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I hope that this helps.

Raybestos Application:

Raybestos R-Line #7018R Brake Rotor & Hub Assy

Fits what vehicles: 1971 Chrysler 300, 1972-1973 Chrysler New Yorker, 1972-1973 Chrysler Newport, 1972-1973 Chrysler Town & Country, 1972-1973 Dodge Monaco, 1972-1973 Dodge Polara, 1973 Plymouth Fury, 1973 Plymouth Fury I, 1973 Plymouth Fury II, 1973 Plymouth Fury III, 1974 Plymouth PB100 Van, 1974 Plymouth PB200 Van, 1975-1981 Dodge Ramcharger, 1975-1980 Plymouth PB100, 1975-1980 Plymouth PB200, 1975-1981 Plymouth Trailduster, 1978 Dodge RD200, 1981 Plymouth PB150, 1981 Plymouth PB250

In 1973 Chrysler started to standardize brake rotors. The 1973 C Bodies started to use the light and medium duty truck styler rotor as indicated by the applications noted above.

Specifications​


Discard Thickness:1.180
Discard Thickness:29.950
Mounting Bolt Hole Circle Diameter:114.300
Mounting Bolt Hole Circle Diameter:4.500
Mounting Bolt Hole Diameter:0.600
Mounting Bolt Hole Diameter:15.250
Mounting Bolt Hole Quantity:5
Nominal Thickness:1.245
Nominal Thickness:31.600
Stud/Lug Hole Quantity:5


Interchange​


  • Accurate: 22441
  • ACDelco: 177-549
  • Advance Auto Parts: 141072
  • American Remanufactured: 789-40000
  • AutoZone: 5307
  • Bendix: 141072
  • Brake Pro: 4617018
  • BrakeBest: 7018
  • BrakeBest: 7018R
  • BrakeBest: 7018RGS
  • Brembo: 27090
  • Brembo: 09.8039.85
  • California Drum & Rotor: 60403
  • California Drum & Rotor: 60418
  • California Drum & Rotor: 60421
  • California Drum & Rotor: 60454
  • Casting Numbers: 617018
  • Casting Numbers: 53078
  • Casting Numbers: 325142
  • Casting Numbers: 210155-C
  • Casting Numbers: 210670-C
  • Centric Parts: 120.67000
  • Centric Parts: 121.67000
  • Centric Parts: 126.67000SL
  • Centric Parts: 126.67000SR
  • Centric Parts: 127.67000L
  • Centric Parts: 127.67000R
  • Century: 7018
  • Chrysler: 3683969
  • Chrysler: 4086356
  • Chrysler: 03683969
  • Chrysler: 04086356
  • Eurorotor: 5307
  • Goodyear: 219-2373
  • GREN: 600303
  • Guardian: 52-60418
  • Hollander: 1438
  • Kelsey Hayes: 14568
  • MCI: 5014
  • Mighty Distributing System: 5307
  • Mopar: 3-1362
  • Newtek Automotive USA: 5307
  • Praefke: 141072
  • Qualis: 5307
  • Quality Brand: 5307
  • Roadmates: 526016
  • Rockhill: 5307
  • Standard Rotors and Drums: 5307
  • UAP: 5307
  • Universal: 105070
 
If you think about what you want, disc brakes, you may want to checkout this option. You're wondering about the spindles and possible fitment issues using c-body rotors. 5 years ago there were fewer options for disc brakes, at least that I could find, but I did find this company - Brake Parts Catalog - Engineered Components, Inc. - and purchased the entire 4 wheel 13" cross drilled rotor kit, including the master cylinder. The kit comes with billet hubs and new bearings for the factory spindles. I had to go with 17" wheels, but that was OK, I planned on that anyhow. There are several kits available now, but this could be a good option for you since you're updating the car. I checked out they're offerings and talked to the owner, seemed like a real solid company!

This is what I purchased....
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IMG_2377.PNG


I only have the lines ran in this picture, no tubing nuts yet. They supplied the master cylinder, it's a Mopar, front disc - rear drum that they take apart and remove the orifice for the rear drums, making it a 4-wheel disc master cylinder. It also bolted to my brake booster where the single bowl used to be. The company owner told me I wouldn't need a proportioning valve for this kit in my car ('65 SF), but I installed one anyhow. It would have been pretty difficult to install it later if I thought it needed one. Since it was easy to install at this point, I also installed a line-lock.
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The brakes stop the car really well and the pedal feel is awesome!

Good luck with the Barracuda, looks like it's going to be an awesome resto-mod!!!
 
Car has 73-up, front disk spindles, New Yorker/Cordoba Pin on Calipers/Brackets and 11.75" Rotors
Question is, will any of the big C-Body (1.25" thick) front rotors bolt directly to my 73+ A, B, E, body spindles?
[/QUOTE]
66-68 rotors - too expensive, and are <1" thick IIRC.
69-73 rotors - no.
'74-up rotors - I don't know, but I doubt it. I doubt heavy '74-up cars share the same bearing sizes as the smaller cars.
Look at the bearings and see where they are common.

If you do find an interchange, then you need to verify the seal housing fits the rotor you'll use, and the seal lip ID fits the spindle.
Then, if you find a match on all of that, there's always the chance that the distance between inner and outer bearings doesn't match the location of the journals on the spindle.

Then - if you find a rotor that fits and spins properly, you need a caliper to match its thickness.
A-B-E calipers will not fit over a 1.25" rotor.
C-body calipers will not mount to A-B-E caliper brackets.
And C-body brackets won't bolt to the spindles, either.


$64,000 question: Will either of these Front Rotors work on my NON C-Body Spindles? Or other C-Body 1.25" thick rotors with 5x4.5" bolt circle?
I've looked at a BUNCH of rotor possibilities over the last 15 years, for various goals: trying to find a replacement for the then-expensive 69-72 rotors; seeking a small rotor that fits in a 14" wheel; for hat-style rotors that fit on a drum-hub; and for any setup that bolts on a drum spindle using a simple/flat caliper mounting bracket.
I've got LOTS of bearing, seal and rotor measurements in a spreadsheet, from many different OEMs. I'd walk thru parking lots looking at rotors, then get dimensions on Rock Auto, trying to find that elusive unicorn that will fit just right.
While I've found lots of parts that will mate together as a pair, there's always an obstacle for making the next part assemble properly.

To that point -
To my research, there aren't really any perfect-fit bolt-on parts for what you are wanting.
Your best bet is the thinner 11.75" B-body rotor.
 
Update:
So it take a little bit of creativity and it helps to be able to ask my local Human Mopar Encyclopedia and others but, it can be done.

Here is the recipe I came up with.
Your mileage may vary... Not a "How To" just a "How I did it"...

1) 73 up A-Body disc brake spindle
2) 73 C-Body 11.75" diameter, 1.25" thick Rotors (.270" per side narrower track, moves the wheels .270" inboard per side)
3) Large Pin On, 2.75" piston Cordoba/New Yorker style Caliper
4) Slightly Modified Pin-On Style Caliper Brackets for the above Calipers (Clearanced to clear the rotors sitting deeper)
5) The Key to making all this work together! Chromoly Outer Bearing Adapters from Doctor Diff (Not listed on his Website). The adapter allows the bigger SET16 outer Bearing needed for the 73 C rotor. The inner Bearing is the same SET17 for all 73 up A/B/E/F/M/J/R and the 73 C-Body spindles...
6) Shave a little off the 2 inner Brake Pads... Made the inner pads closer to the same thickness as the outers.
Could have gone a couple ways with this but this way was fast and easy on my belt sander... Still lots of material left.
Inner Pads are now ~12.8mm-13mm (Sanded Down from ~14.5mm) and outers are unchanged at ~12.5mm total thickness.
Friction material thickness is about 7.8mm (inners), and ~7.5mm (outers) 5mm thick metal backing thickness inner and outers.

Right Front Looks like this assembled: Going to repaint the calipers Gloss Black.
1741287836381.png

Modified Caliper Bracket: Removed about an 1/8th of an inch of material from these locations.
1741288524486.png

1741289613481.png

1741288626314.png

Clearance gap:
1741288708656.png


I only ordered 1 73 C-Body rotor to start, in case I needed to return it. Second rotor is on it's way.
I tried another set of Pads to see if they might be thinner overall but they were not. Amazon Prime so free returns... :)

Interestingly, the Bendix set of pads were all 4 identical to each other, that is, all 4 were the same shape backing and same thickness...
Like these: Bendix, AC Delco and Raybestos, pictures all look like these... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
1741289166549.png


Centrix and DFC pictures look like these... as do the ones I using.
Not sure the brand of the ones I'm using since I've had them for years and not in the box...
The outers (Bottom) will fit in the inner position but the inners (Top) will only fit the inner location.
1741289291349.png


All this is helping with fitting Year One 17x8 wheels with 245/45-17 Tires on the front of a 69 Barracuda without trimming the lower front corners of the front fenders...
Pic of "Before" modified for 73 C Rotors. turning lock to lock, the tire would just hit the lower front corner of the fenders.
Was a "No Go"...

Those are 275/40-17x9" on the Rear and 245/45-17x8" on the Front.
Year One Cast Mopar style Rallye Wheels. Powder coated matte black. will run the Dark Argent 71 style Center Caps.

1741291401543.png

Gaining .270" BS while upgrading to the beefier 73C rotors combined with removing .300" off of the wheels mounting surfaces will net me .57" additional Backspace which may be enough to clear the lower front corner of the fenders when turning full lock and reversing...

Not quite there but will pick up my wheels from the machine shop today, minus .300" shaved off the mounting faces.
Lots of material to work with on the backs of these. There is about a 1.5" diameter 4mm deep "dish" around each stud hole, so only going about 3.5mm past flush with the back of the stud holes... if you get what I'm saying... Not sure why that "relief" is there but it is certainly not needed for bolting up to a perfectly flat rotor mounting surface.

Flat Black Year One Rallye Wheel next to an original Silver/Machined Aluminum.
This was a Plasti-Dip test before powder coating.
1741291715956.png


Will update again after I am able to test fit with tires...

- Randy D.
 
Thanks for the followup!
So was the whole goal to teh C-body rotor to gain that .270" more backspace? Was that the only reason for the C-body rotor vs the later B-rotor of the same diameter?
Got a pic of that bearing adapter? I'm always curious about those.

Regarding this:
3) Large Pin On, 2.75" piston Cordoba/New Yorker style Caliper
4) Slightly Modified Pin-On Style Caliper Brackets for the above Calipers (Clearanced to clear the rotors sitting deeper)

Cordoba / New Yorker caliper does not exist, they are not identical.
New Yorker was a larger-frame pin/sliding caliper from 69-73 (with 2.75 piston) and became a 3" piston floating caliper for 74-78.
But from what I see on Rock Auto, Cordoba used pin/sliding calipers in 75-77, with 2.75 pistons. (but those are smaller caliper castings than 69-73 C-body)

So I presume you used 75-77 Cordoba calipers AND 75-77 Cordoba caliper brackets on the A-body spindles? (the 75+ B and R-body caliper brackets for 11.75" rotors are known to fit onto 73 up A & E/ and F/M/J spindles). And that would explain the shaving of brake pads and clearancing the brackets for the thicker rotors.

Your ingenuity is good, and it appears that my knowledge, about what doesn't fit as-is, is still correct.
My goal has always been something different on a C-body spindle (which is completely different from what you've accomplished).
 
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Thanks for the followup!
So was the whole goal to teh C-body rotor to gain that .270" more backspace? Was that the only reason for the C-body rotor vs the later B-rotor of the same diameter?
Got a pic of that bearing adapter? I'm always curious about those.

Regarding this:


Cordoba / New Yorker caliper does not exist, they are not identical.
New Yorker was a larger-frame pin/sliding caliper from 69-73 (with 2.75 piston) and became a 3" piston floating caliper for 74-78.
But from what I see on Rock Auto, Cordoba used pin/sliding calipers in 75-77, with 2.75 pistons. (but those are smaller caliper castings than 69-73 C-body)

So I presume you used 75-77 Cordoba calipers AND 75-77 Cordoba caliper brackets on the A-body spindles? (the 75+ B and R-body caliper brackets for 11.75" rotors are known to fit onto 73 up A & E/ and F/M/J spindles). And that would explain the shaving of brake pads and clearancing the brackets for the thicker rotors.

Your ingenuity is good, and it appears that my knowledge, about what doesn't fit as-is, is still correct.
My goal has always been something different on a C-body spindle (which is completely different from what you've accomplished).
My Bad... Yes Cordoba Caliper Brackets. I got them off a 75 Cordoba from Wildcat Mopars in Sandy Oregon.
But B-Body Calipers... They are 2.75" diameter pistons. Look like these.
1741309383540.png

I was going to use the 11.75" A/B/E, etc. rotors but when my wheel and tire combo rubbed, I started looking for a way to gain some more backspace without changing wheels and tires...
But yes, all this to fit wheels and tires that didn't have the ideal backspace for an A-Body Barracuda.

I have friends running C-Body spindles but I was already invested so trying to use as much of what I already have.

.270" isn't much but I had the wheel mounting surface shaved down .300", so a total of .570" improvement to my backspace.
The cost wasn't bad:
$120 for the pair of bearing adapters with new inner/outer bearings/seals/dust caps. Thanks to Doctor Diff
$150 (Minimum 1 Hr. shop rate) to have my 2 front wheel mounting surfaces machined.

Have to mount the tires and put it all together and test the full range of steering and suspension travel before claiming victory with the wheel/tire combo but the 73 C-Body Rotor on an A-Body Spindle is a Go! Not plug-n-Play but pretty simple mods.

If I didn't mention it before, I'm building this car for my son. Started it in 2017 when he was 17... he's 25 now! :)

Here are some pictures of the Bearing Adapter from Doctor Diff.
This is one is with the adapter installed.
1741312146625.png

Partially removed
1741312176684.png

A couple more of the just adapter. Don't use these numbers as gospel... one handed caliper operation with one hand phone camera operation... ;-)
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1741312347924.png


Next up, get tires mounted and some more assembly and testing... Stay tuned.

Link to my project thread on FABO:
6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project
Yes it snowballed quite a bit. Many changes and additions along the way.
A couple long pauses but good to be back at it.
 
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