Calgary's got another Newport...

[1978 NYB]

Be very careful with the roof rail seals. You won't find any replacements on the planet and I doubt that someone will repop them in our lifetime.

I would bet the compressor is working better than its suppose to and something is freezing like the condenser. You said it worked the next day because it thawed out. I noticed when I still had the factory system ( before my Sanden) that you could see vapors coming out of the vents before it froze up on long trips. I just shut it off for 15-20 minutes and then it would be fine again.

Since you are in Canada and lucky you still have a working wiper system. I urge complete caution if you find ANY ice or snow on the windshield or wipers. Don't turn the wipers on because I guarentee you that the wiper cam will self destruct with the slightest resistance from ice or snow.

 

[Mr C]

Wonderful car, congratulations!

A few things I saw in your narrative on your dealings with it that I'd like you to know:

V1R- Vinyl top- Red

Intermittent wipers- they are controlled by a white or green box under the dash. Should not be the dash switch

Paint- Your car never had clear coat from the factory. The only 78 Chrysler with clear on it was the 78 New Yorker Brougham Salon edition.

Aerodynamics- Being resistant to strong side gusts of wind. It's because the thing weighs close to 5000 lbs! What they called "road hugging weight" and it's true. Chrysler used to brag about this:

 

[HombreCalgarian]

Be very careful with the roof rail seals. You won't find any replacements on the planet and I doubt that someone will repop them in our lifetime.

I would bet the compressor is working better than its suppose to and something is freezing like the condenser. You said it worked the next day because it thawed out. I noticed when I still had the factory system ( before my Sanden) that you could see vapors coming out of the vents before it froze up on long trips. I just shut it off for 15-20 minutes and then it would be fine again.

Since you are in Canada and lucky you still have a working wiper system. I urge complete caution if you find ANY ice or snow on the windshield or wipers. Don't turn the wipers on because I guarentee you that the wiper cam will self destruct with the slightest resistance from ice or snow.

Since I've been lurking here for some time, I already know this weatherstripping from unobtanium mantra.
I have not checked yet closely what kind of comressor I have there, all I know is that supposedly it is new/rebuilt affair and the system runs on R134.

Same for wipers - I read that a gent installed a cam from a Cordoba, but possibly his mechanism was modded already. Will keep an eye on it. But plastics suck in this place. Mind pointing to a thread about modifying and installing the old steel ones? Thanks!

 

[HombreCalgarian]

Sounds like a pretty solid car in great shape. One thing I would do is pull the plugs and look to see if there is carbon deposits on them. These cars were famous for valve stem seals failing. This would result in fouling of the plugs and carbon build up in the cylinders, end result could be the pinging you heard. Another indication. Is a puff of blue smoke on a cold start.
If things look good get yourself a can of carb out and run it through a hot engine then take it out for a hard run on the highway. You will be amazed at the change in performance if the engine is severely carboned up.
About the stumble with when the A/C is on a step up solenoid can be installed to increase idle speed whenever the A/C is on. That should help solve the problem.

I read about the carbon deposits somewhere here. But spark plugs are clean if a bit tired, the exhaust is crispy clean without a trace of soot and never saw nor smelt the smoke puff during cold starts.
And I think 1000 km on Trans-Canada from Van to Cowtown only stopping for fuel, and at a 100 km/h trip average is as good "Italian tune-up" as they go. I will keep an eye on it.
I will monitor the AC operation a bit more before I jump to any conclusions and start messing with it. But thanks for the suggestion, I will keep it in mind.

 

[PeugFra]

With an SPD of June 6th this Newport is a candidate for the Late C-Bodies List. Do you have the MDH on the doorsticker handy?

 

[HombreCalgarian]

View attachment 294991

With an SPD of June 6th this Newport is a candidate for the Late C-Bodies List. Do you have the MDH on the doorsticker handy?

 

[300rag]

... Mind pointing to a thread about modifying and installing the old steel ones? Thanks!

I Am Absolutely Done With 1978 Wiper Cams

1978 wiper drive cam

 

[PeugFra]

SPD says June 6th, MDH says May 10th! That makes the Newport a not-so-very-late C-body. I'll put it in the list anyway, because it shows how important the MDH is in these matters.

 

[HombreCalgarian]

Sent you a PM

In the number that you gave is it 493 or 403? Thanks!

 

[HombreCalgarian]

Now, I know I am breaking a Tradition, step away from complete originality and so on - but had I lived in those times I would do the same the moment I got the car. I am talking about the key in ignition and seatbelt buzzer. I have always thought that I am grown up enough (and not yet too senile) to remember to pull out the key out or to buckle up. And if I get in trouble as a result of not doing either, it will be my sole responsibility and only myself to blame. Hence my little tolerance to all the numerous noise pollution devices that proliferated in our cars since those times.

Anyhoo, the reason I did it is I tried to pinpoint the cause of fast-blinking of indicator lights, and could not stand this moskito on steroids buzz transmitting right in my ear.

Yet I am not a berserk Luddite destroying everything in my way, so I wanted to keep everything subtle and reversible. And here is my solution. A little piece of wire insulation that I tucked under the vibrating "tongue" in the buzzer.

Oh, and the blinker righted itself when I replaced the 2-prong flasher relay. Enjoying the quiet...

 

[Pclancy]

You will never solve that problem until you covert the V-twin compressor with a Sanden.

I have a 77 Newport with the same problem. 400 Engine with lean burn deleted. Eldebrock 1406 carb. Smooth idle with no a/c; noticeable stumble with it on. It's a real pain in the tootsie.

Original compressor; converted to R134A. Do I really have to go to a Sanden conversion to get rid of this? What will that cost me for a professional install, parts and labor? Can you share the thread on how that is done?

Gee, I love the step up solenoid idea; are we sure that doesn't do the trick?

Thanks

 

[rkrochen]

I have a 77 Newport with the same problem. 400 Engine with lean burn deleted. Eldebrock 1406 carb. Smooth idle with no a/c; noticeable stumble with it on. It's a real pain in the tootsie.

Original compressor; converted to R134A. Do I really have to go to a Sanden conversion to get rid of this? What will that cost me for a professional install, parts and labor? Can you share the thread on how that is done?

Gee, I love the step up solenoid idea; are we sure that doesn't do the trick?

Thanks

It helps quite a bit and is a lot cheaper than replacing the compressor. Chrysler used these a lot back in the day. It allows you to increase idle speed enough to offset the load of the compressor somewhat. You may need to fab a bracket to make one fit your carb. You can wire it so that when the a/c is on the solenoid is activated.

 

[Pclancy]

It helps quite a bit and is a lot cheaper than replacing the compressor. Chrysler used these a lot back in the day. It allows you to increase idle speed enough to offset the load of the compressor somewhat. You may need to fab a bracket to make one fit your carb. You can wire it so that when the a/c is on the solenoid is activated.

Thanks. Any idea of which solenoid (brand/part number) works best? Is there a thread on how to wire it so that the solenoid is activated only with the a/c on? Or can a good mechanic figure that out?

 

[rkrochen]

Thanks. Any idea of which solenoid (brand/part number) works best? Is there a thread on how to wire it so that the solenoid is activated only with the a/c on? Or can a good mechanic figure that out?

Sorry I can’t help you with that it will require some searching. It should be quite e say to wire.

 

[Pclancy]

Sorry I can’t help you with that it will require some searching. It should be quite e say to wire.

OK and thanks!

 

[rkrochen]

OK and thanks!

Just had a quick look and Summit sells them for stock and aftermarket carbs. Be sure to order the mounting bracket as well.
Depending on your preference you can connect to a powered wire when key is on or to the a/c clutch wire. My preference is to the a/c clutch and would only activate when the a/c clutch is active.

 

[Pclancy]

Great! You have been so helpful!

 

[HombreCalgarian]

Just had a quick look and Summit sells them for stock and aftermarket carbs. Be sure to order the mounting bracket as well.

May I ask for a URL to save me time searching for something I do not know exactly what it is?

 

[Dobalovr]

May I ask for a URL to save me time searching for something I do not know exactly what it is?

Be sure to read the reviews about needing the bracket for Eddy carbs...
Standard Motor Carburetor Idle Stop Solenoids ES110

 

[HombreCalgarian]

OK, a bit of update on our red Formal.

We passed the Out-of-Province inspection all right. The technican noted the propshaft front U-joint having a slight play (something to look into as well). After that we had an opportunity to cruise around a bit, including a ride in a pouring rain.

Despite some dry rot of the roof seals, the car stayed water-tight. Wipers are a bit slow and the intermittent feature is not working properly, but otherwise - no problems.

When we bought it the driver seat would not move fore/aft, while up and down gymnastics worked OK. So I unbolted the seat (the original anchoring system BTW looks very flimsy, just holes in the floor and smalling washers with nuts) to get access to the motor.

Disconnected the switch, removed the motor pack then reconnected the switch for testing it on the bench - and it all worked. Assembled everything back - and it has been fine ever since. Oh, and while putting the seat back on, I added some manly large washers and rubber pads).

Tires - the ones that carried us from Vancouver to Calgary went kaput. The new ones that still have the white striping (Hankooks) did not look very well performance-wise, so we got a set of General Altimax RT43 online and a set of white appliques from these fellas. While tires are totally fine, I do not think I would go again with these Tirestickers. Too expensive for what they are, but looking from a few steps away - not bad.

Steering wheel got a bit handier with this period-correct Superior Sport Grip off Ebay.

And to better see the road at night, the laughingly ineffective sealed beams were replaced with a set of direct replacement Hellas. These are amazing, the Euro light pattern is a delight. Additional boon is that they are plug and play and look very much the same as OEM.
High beams will be updated in the same way later on. Anyways, cannot recommend more.

So now with most basics covered and fully road legal, we could enjoy not just short, but longer drives as well. The car is super-easy and not at all archaic to drive. It is also handles sportier and tighter than the LTD / Grand Marquises and the '83 Olds 98 that we test-drove. It also gives that wonderfull opennes feeling that only a true hardtop is capable of.
A couple of pics from an improptu photo set.

Now I need to find time to meet with Good Sir Dobalovr to show him the car and let his expert eye probe the engine tune.