Caliper beyond repair?

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So I'm converting my 69 Fury over to brakes from a 72 New Yorker. I figured I would do this while I'm doing the complete suspension rebuild. today with much effort and heat, I got the bleeders and the brake lines out of each caliper, so that's good. one caliper had a very stuck piston, which I finally got out. Unfortunately this is what I found inside. my opinion says that's beyond even honing. what's everybody else think for options?

IMG_20240309_183156409_HDR.jpg
 
I would still hone and see. The large pit on the left side of the picture could be a problem. I think the rest will clean up enough for the rubber to seal. If the piston is badly damaged that could also be a problem.
 
fill in these parameters on car-part....lots all over the place
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The seal doesn't ride in and out in the caliper well with the piston like a seal on a rear wheel cylinder piston does.
Your new piston will ride on the stationary seal that you haven't removed yet. So, you will have a new piston sealing on a new sealing surface.
Inspect the seal mating groove after you remove the seal and if you like what you see install a new $15 piston with $5 rebuild kit. Don't go wild with the cylinder hone, just enough to clean it up, the pits don't matter.
If you don't like the condition of the groove, then seat the new seal in the groove with a sparce amount of brake fluid impervious high tack non hardening sealer and call it good.
 
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The seal doesn't ride in and out in the caliper well with the piston like a seal on a rear wheel cylinder piston does.
Your new piston will ride on the stationary seal that you haven't removed yet. So, you will have a new piston sealing on a new sealing surface.
^This^

And if for some reason you decide to buy some rebuilt calipers, hang on to the old ones until you are 100% sure they are correct. We've seen quite a few guys get the incorrect, but identical looking calipers that don't fit. Many examples, here's one. Calipers
 
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The seal doesn't ride in and out in the caliper well with the piston like a seal on a rear wheel cylinder piston does.
Your new piston will ride on the stationary seal that you haven't removed yet. So, you will have a new piston sealing on a new sealing surface.
Inspect the seal mating groove after you remove the seal and if you like what you see install a new $15 piston with $5 rebuild kit. Don't go wild with the cylinder hone, just enough to clean it up, the pits don't matter.
If you don't like the condition of the groove, then seat the new seal in the groove with a sparce amount of brake fluid impervious high tack non hardening sealer and call it good.
^^^^^
I agree with all of this. My 70 calipers were pitted almost that bad. I honed the just enough to get them smooth. Ordered some new pistons and seals and they work fine.
 
B&E-body cars are the donors for our caliper rebuilds.
Those pistons/seals are same as C-body and are available new.
 
fill in these parameters on car-part....lots all over the placeView attachment 648954

Be aware that junkyards aren't always good at keeping their inventory correctly synced on Car-part.
I've had a number of instances where I call the JY and they don't have the part, and the car in the yard is long-since crushed.
All I'm saying is - don't get too excited by what hte website shows.
 
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