pomonamissel
Senior Member
yes replace them before they shift and close the oiling windows .
Cam bearing issu
- Thread starter C Body Bob
- Start date
Eye_on_Fury
New Member
Well that's a pretty healthy cam, 292 or 320? Doesn't really matter either way just curious is all. I'm not a huge MP guy, things have changed a lot since that was first made, but I've heard you have a good one there regardless. Without knowing the gap between the two it'll really be impossible to say if it's in the fudge it zone or not.
If you don't have a feeler gauge then: Run your straight edge and lay a dime on the tip butt them up tight, use some machinist's dye or even nail polish (remove the polish after; acetone) and mark on the edge of the dime. If you get half way up the dime's thin edge your talking about .025" or more, the whole dime is .055". For me half way is getting too sketchy. I know previously someone said .040" is no big deal but I would beg to differ. Maybe on a stock rebuild it would be ok but I find it hard to believe you're running bone stock with that large of a cam profile...
Honestly I'm not following your build so I don't even know your cubes or anything... I mean with a set of adjustable pushrods I'm sure you could eat up the slack, but that isn't a wimpy cam by any measure so I'm guessing you are building a runner, I wouldn't want to do bumper to bumper without a vacuum assist on that cam. I wouldn't risk anything that regularly spins above 6k or has fat springs with misaligned valve tips.
If it were me, and please understand I'm talking only about MY standards, I would bring them back to the person I already paid to do it right the first time and show him right out in front of all his customers what is wrong with his work and then ask him if that is acceptable to him. If he won't fix it then the other customers at least have a fair heads up about the quality they are getting. I've had SOOOO many bad head jobs over the years that I have lost all patience with a bad job. That and I never like seeing a MOPAR out of commission while a bowtie spits and sputters down the road.
I know I went on long there, sorry to hijack your thread. Best of luck.
If you don't have a feeler gauge then: Run your straight edge and lay a dime on the tip butt them up tight, use some machinist's dye or even nail polish (remove the polish after; acetone) and mark on the edge of the dime. If you get half way up the dime's thin edge your talking about .025" or more, the whole dime is .055". For me half way is getting too sketchy. I know previously someone said .040" is no big deal but I would beg to differ. Maybe on a stock rebuild it would be ok but I find it hard to believe you're running bone stock with that large of a cam profile...
Honestly I'm not following your build so I don't even know your cubes or anything... I mean with a set of adjustable pushrods I'm sure you could eat up the slack, but that isn't a wimpy cam by any measure so I'm guessing you are building a runner, I wouldn't want to do bumper to bumper without a vacuum assist on that cam. I wouldn't risk anything that regularly spins above 6k or has fat springs with misaligned valve tips.
If it were me, and please understand I'm talking only about MY standards, I would bring them back to the person I already paid to do it right the first time and show him right out in front of all his customers what is wrong with his work and then ask him if that is acceptable to him. If he won't fix it then the other customers at least have a fair heads up about the quality they are getting. I've had SOOOO many bad head jobs over the years that I have lost all patience with a bad job. That and I never like seeing a MOPAR out of commission while a bowtie spits and sputters down the road.
I know I went on long there, sorry to hijack your thread. Best of luck.
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