Car just stalled while driving .

[commando1]

I'm really leaning towards the pickup in the distributor being bad.

I agree. And after that, go back to what I said right up front and check the Fuse connector on the wire coming off the battery. After you disconnected the battery, you jiggled that wire.

 

[Big_John]

I agree. And after that, go back to what I said right up front and check the Fuse connector on the wire coming off the battery. After you disconnected the battery, you jiggled that wire.

Should jiggle the wire first. No cost involved.... although you can check the pickup coil pretty easy too.

 

[commando1]

Should jiggle the wire first. No cost involved.... although you can check the pickup coil pretty easy too.

He hasn't listened and done the simplest thing so far.
Why start now...

 

[traintech55]

Your right on that on Stan. Take the time to steer him on the right path, and everyone has him going in 40 different directions.

 

[Big_John]

Everyone is trying to help.... and none of us are there to look over his shoulder. He'll figure it out, just give him a chance.

But you know... what we ought to do is start a pool with what is wrong with member's cars... You know.. whoever has the right diagnosis wins.

 

[traintech55]

Everyone is trying to help.... and none of us are there to look over his shoulder. He'll figure it out, just give him a chance.

But you know... what we ought to do is start a pool with what is wrong with member's cars... You know.. whoever has the right diagnosis wins.

It seems like some members here just throw suggestions out there, and not take the time to help someone find out what the exact problem is. Maybe it is just 45 years of turning wrenches that makes me want to find out what the problem is first, not just keep throwing parts at it hoping it gets fixed.

 

[75LandYacht]

The battery has nothing to do with it. All your ignition circuits are controlled by the switch. You are just giving the culprit time to cool down and go back to working again. As I have said before, get your hands on a different distributor. When it stalls, you can plug the other one in immediately, and see if you have spark. This will tell you right then and there if it is the pick up coil.

Will do.. Parts store said a Re-man distributor is about $125 ish. I'll irder one as a spare.

 

[Big_John]

It seems like some members here just throw suggestions out there, and not take the time to help someone find out what the exact problem is. Maybe it is just 45 years of turning wrenches that makes me want to find out what the problem is first, not just keep throwing parts at it hoping it gets fixed.

I understand completely. I always read through these threads and hope that the person having the problem has some ability to know what are good suggestions and what are not. It's easy to get frustrated and I have. You just have to remember that everyone is trying to help.

But... As you said, the diagnostic approach of throwing parts is not the way. Occasionally, the parts are so cheap that it makes sense to try, but geez... There are so many things in the ignition and electrical system that can be checked with a test light and a cheap digital multimeter. Example: How many ballast resistors get changed without doing a very easy continuity check.

 

[75LandYacht]

I agree. And after that, go back to what I said right up front and check the Fuse connector on the wire coming off the battery. After you disconnected the battery, you jiggled that wire.

Thanks Stan.. After it stalled again today, I saw the Fuze link you mentioned coming off the battery. But sitting in a parking garage, I couldn't do much. She's home now, so I'll do more digging this week.
Thank you all for your constant input. It's been VERY helpful and informative.

 

[Big_John]

Will do.. Parts store said a Re-man distributor is about $125 ish. I'll irder one as a spare.

The pickup, which is the only electronic part that will go bad in that distributor, is $100 less.

I think Traintech was saying to try any electronic distributor, even one that doesn't fit the engine. I'm pretty sure I know what he wants you to do, but I'll let him go into detail about how to use it to diagnose your problem.

 

[traintech55]

Will do.. Parts store said a Re-man distributor is about $125 ish. I'll irder one as a spare.

Don't you have ANY electronic distributor laying around. It could be many places not just the dist. If you have to get one from a pick and pull to check first. You may be spending $125.00 for nothing

 

[traintech55]

Don't you have ANY electronic distributor laying around. It could be many places not just the dist. If you have to get one from a pick and pull to check first. You may be spending $125.00 for nothing

Any electronic distributor will plug into the wiring harness. If you do it just as the car stalls, and test it if you then have spark, it is in the dist. If not it could be the ballast resistor, or the ignition switch. You have to start somewhere to diagnose this, and that is the easiest place to start. Also you need to do this before it has a chance to cool down.

 

[75LandYacht]

Don't you have ANY electronic distributor laying around. It could be many places not just the dist. If you have to get one from a pick and pull to check first. You may be spending $125.00 for nothing

I don't.. Here in NYC there are no junk yards you can walk in. There all counter service. And most places are late model cars. Nothing our age. Lol

 

[75LandYacht]

Any electronic distributor will plug into the wiring harness. If you do it just as the car stalls, and test it if you then have spark, it is in the dist. If not it could be the ballast resistor, or the ignition switch. You have to start somewhere to diagnose this, and that is the easiest place to start. Also you need to do this before it has a chance to cool down.

Got it.. I certainly hope I get this figured out before Carlisle. Everyone here has been great with input and information.

 

[75LandYacht]

The pickup, which is the only electronic part that will go bad in that distributor, is $100 less.

I think Traintech was saying to try any electronic distributor, even one that doesn't fit the engine. I'm pretty sure I know what he wants you to do, but I'll let him go into detail about how to use it to diagnose your problem.

Thanks Big J.. After all that has happened, it seems to be pointing to the distribtor and its components from what most of you Guys are saying.

 

[traintech55]

I don't.. Here in NYC there are no junk yards you can walk in. There all counter service. And most places are late model cars. Nothing our age. Lol

It can be any distributor from 1972 to 1989. Six cyl. or 8 cyl. even ones with the dual pickup. You only need the end with the orange and black wires for this test.

 

[75LandYacht]

He hasn't listened and done the simplest thing so far.
Why start now...

Don't be so insulting Stan.. This is all new to me, have a heart will ya..

 

[70_NPORT]

I hate electrical gremlins...been there done that. I would think it can be even worse for formals, they have more "electronics" to deal with? The test light and multi-meter are your besties. I keep both in the trunk at all times as well as spare ballast, coil and VR.

 

[75LandYacht]

I hate electrical gremlins...been there done that. I would think it can be even worse for formals, they have more "electronics" to deal with? The test light and multi-meter are your besties. I keep both in the trunk at all times as well as spare ballast, coil and VR.

Ya I'm learning as I go with my NYB.. But all you guys have been great about getting info to me.

 

[commando1]

Don't be so insulting Stan.. This is all new to me, have a heart will ya..

I was saying that with a wink-wink. I should have added a smiley.