I've been considering a lift. My ceiling is 10' so I was thinking about a mid rise. I see on marketplace there is a mid rise and a low rise for sale. I know a two post lift would be great but I don't have the height. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
Car lifts
- Thread starter Nadine66
- Start date
Some of the Quick Jack lifts are pretty neat and are portable as they raise from the body rather than otherwise. They've got some other types, too. Shop PRICEs from several re-sellers for the same product, including shipping costs.
The height you get can be related to if you want to work on your feet or from a stool and what type of work you are planning on doing.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
The height you get can be related to if you want to work on your feet or from a stool and what type of work you are planning on doing.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
I see there are ones that give more access to the underneath while others get in the way. I am considering a two post even though I don't have the ceiling height because they lift from the sides instead from under the car leaving the whole underneath accessible. I'd rather spend the money on the car lol!
To me, an issue with the popular two-post lifts is that the posts are pretty much in the way of opening the door to get out of the car. There are some rocker panel/frame lifts that the vehicle drives over, then lift with nothing between them. Kind of like a two-piece Quick Jack on steroids?
A key thing to me, with the twin posts, is getting them firmly anchored to the garage floor! Plus a wide "footprint" of the posts, too. Otherwise, a catastrophe waiting to happen.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
A key thing to me, with the twin posts, is getting them firmly anchored to the garage floor! Plus a wide "footprint" of the posts, too. Otherwise, a catastrophe waiting to happen.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Four posts lifts leave more room down the sides of the car. That was the deal maker in my limited space garage.
They are less picky about car balance.
They require less floor concrete prep and are movable.
Good for front end alignment.
The ramps are a handy place for laying tools when working.
It's nice on the back having the car up a few inches without having to raise the lift.
It's nice not having to set lift arms.
I don't find jacking the car off the lift ramps for wheel removable work inconvenient.
They do use front walking around space at the front of the garage.
They are less picky about car balance.
They require less floor concrete prep and are movable.
Good for front end alignment.
The ramps are a handy place for laying tools when working.
It's nice on the back having the car up a few inches without having to raise the lift.
It's nice not having to set lift arms.
I don't find jacking the car off the lift ramps for wheel removable work inconvenient.
They do use front walking around space at the front of the garage.
mgm1986
Active Member
My wife's uncle has been wrenching for some 60 years and he has a portable pallet jack style lift. We used it to repair the frame on my '68 300 and it had no problems lifting the car safely and keeping it secure. When I finally do get a lift, this is very likely the type I will be shopping for. It plugs in to a standard 110v outlet (some can be had with 220v) and is put in the corner when not in use.
As others mentioned, definitely shop around for pricing.
iDEAL MSC-6KLP 6,000 lbs Capacity Mobile Single Column Lift at ToolPan
edit: I posted the wrong link initially, the link above is the pallet jack style I mentioned.
As others mentioned, definitely shop around for pricing.
iDEAL MSC-6KLP 6,000 lbs Capacity Mobile Single Column Lift at ToolPan
edit: I posted the wrong link initially, the link above is the pallet jack style I mentioned.
WikedPlymouth
Member
I have four post lifts, the mid rise Maxx Jaxx 2 post lift and a midrise scissor lift. Each has it's pluses and minuses. The 4 post takes very little set up but without a bridge jack it's harder to work on brakes/suspension etc. The mid rise scissor lift is nice but you can't do anything to the middle of the car. The 2 post lift is nice but you do have to make sure the concrete is the correct density and has the strength. My ideal lift would probably be a 4 post lift with 2 rolling bridge jacks...the best of all worlds.
Before in-ground lifts kind of got outlawed, the local Chrysler dealer had a Weaver Twin-Post lift. The rear part "centered" off of the rear wheels. The front lift could be moved to match the front control arms (or I-beam front axle). Each could go up independently. Had to correctly modulate the raise and lower to keep the front end at the same level as the rear end, though.
Then all new-construction dealership shops started to go to the anchored above ground lifts. Cleaner and easier to make happen, but some opted for the drive-onto "muffler shop" lifts, with rolling "bridges" for oil change oil and such.
Whatever works,
CBODY67
Then all new-construction dealership shops started to go to the anchored above ground lifts. Cleaner and easier to make happen, but some opted for the drive-onto "muffler shop" lifts, with rolling "bridges" for oil change oil and such.
Whatever works,
CBODY67
We were taught on the in ground two post lifts. Had to kneel down to control the levers on the floor. Then the dealers mostly had the single post in ground.
I have a 4 post lift and and the lowest point of the ceiling over my lift is under 10'.
For me, it's great... The biggest issue is the garage door as I don't have that much height with the door open.
I can lift it far enough that I can park another car underneath, although it's tight. For working, I have a couple rolling stools to sit on if I can't get the car quite high enough.
I have a rolling jack support that came with the lift, but the jack itself wasn't in the budget at the time, so instead I bought a pneumatic "air bag" jack that works fantastic. I can either use the support or even the ramp itself to jack the car up for suspension or brake work. I have a bottle jack that I've used too.
Jack: VEVOR Triple Bag Air Jack, 3 Ton (6600 lbs) Capacity, Portable Pneumatic Car Jacks, Fast Lifting up to 16 Inch Height, Heavy Duty & Quick Lifting for Garage Car Repair, Red | VEVOR US
I bought the lift from these guys because I felt their latching system was more robust and failsafe. Their main website appears to be down at the moment, but here's the Facebook page for them. Wildfire Lifts
EDIT: Their webpage is back up. 4 Post Car Lifts | Safest, Highest Quality On The Market | Four Post
For me, it's great... The biggest issue is the garage door as I don't have that much height with the door open.
I can lift it far enough that I can park another car underneath, although it's tight. For working, I have a couple rolling stools to sit on if I can't get the car quite high enough.
I have a rolling jack support that came with the lift, but the jack itself wasn't in the budget at the time, so instead I bought a pneumatic "air bag" jack that works fantastic. I can either use the support or even the ramp itself to jack the car up for suspension or brake work. I have a bottle jack that I've used too.
Jack: VEVOR Triple Bag Air Jack, 3 Ton (6600 lbs) Capacity, Portable Pneumatic Car Jacks, Fast Lifting up to 16 Inch Height, Heavy Duty & Quick Lifting for Garage Car Repair, Red | VEVOR US
I bought the lift from these guys because I felt their latching system was more robust and failsafe. Their main website appears to be down at the moment, but here's the Facebook page for them. Wildfire Lifts
EDIT: Their webpage is back up. 4 Post Car Lifts | Safest, Highest Quality On The Market | Four Post
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6PKRTSE
Active Member
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I have 10'-4" ceilings and it is very tight for two B Bodies, but works. I use it mainly for storage. I do have the trolley jack for doing brakes and can also do transmission and center section swaps easily up on it as well.
I have had a Danmar MaxJax for years now.It works perfectly and the portability is fantastic.If you run into a used series 1 MaxJax by all means buy it.It will work great with your ceiling height.The new ones have a lot of improvements but are quite expensive.
There's a Dover 2 post liftnear me for sale I'm interested in. It would get the car and me off the ground even though I don't have the height. A friend of mine is an architect engineer, he redesigned the trusses for another friend so he could put a lift in his 10' shop. Comes with a manual tire removal machine too.
halfafish
New Member
@Mr onetwo , in this photo it looks like both vertical posts are leaning inwards? Just curious, it sort of appears the hold-down bolts to the floor aren't tight or ?? If this wasn't planned, I'd hate to see how this would shake out if the posts didn't stay put.
That would be the camera's perspective. ( I think that's the correct term). The focus is on the car and not the lift. Note the shelves in the background also appear to lean in at the top.
halfafish
New Member
As others have noted, any lift is a compromise unless you have multiples of different kinds. I went with a 4-post for ease of use and stability. After a few years I splurged on a bridge lift for doing tires, brakes, suspension, etc. It's the best compromise for me. The only PITA is if I want to pull an engine. I wish I had an overhead crane but I don't. The lift ramps are about 6" above floor level. That means to pull an engine I have to raise the lift another 7-8" to get the legs of the cherry picker to slide under. But it's now really tall and I don't have enough reach to get the engine out. I solved this by cutting four blocks of 8x8 post just tall enough to support the lift and let the picker slide under - I didn't want to leave the vehicle in the air, supported only by the hydraulics. I lift the entire thing then lower it onto the blocks where it's supported. So far so good, says Clever Me.
However, now I've given away over a foot of vertical lifting capacity, which means I couldn't get the slant out of my truck which is of course also quite tall. I found a picker with extendable front legs and a long lifting beam which solved the problem. I roll it under and can get the engine and trans out as one. It's not an ideal solution but for as little as I need to pull and stab engines, it's an acceptable work-around.
Just the camera....that photo was taken with an old Canon digital, not my newer iPhone. The bottom plates are 5/8 in thick and are attached to 3/4-10 x 6 1/2" epoxy anchors rated at 46,000 lbs tensile strength each.I assure you that those posts aren't going anywhere.
BuckeyeBarracuda
Active Member
Anybody bought a 4-post lift and had it installed? I am turning 75 and don't think my back is up to building an Erector Set lift? I am outside Akron, Ohio, and would appreciate any recommendations or warnings on who to avoid...
Larry
Larry
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