Car won’t start?

Pardon my poor terminology, I am still learning after all and I’m learning that this prolly wasn’t the best car to learn how to wrench on atleast not for the electrics
 
Pardon my poor terminology, I am still learning after all and I’m learning that this prolly wasn’t the best car to learn how to wrench on atleast not for the electrics
I doubt there is a better car to learn working on electrics though. If you're not sure about your terminology, I've learned it's probably best to take a picture so everyone can see for themselves. Makes diagnosing over the internet a lot easier.
 
If you have an electronic distributor and some screws were missing, then maybe the reluctor and pickup are not set properly. Did you use a non-magnetic feeler gauge to set the gap? Pictures would help.
 
If you have an electronic distributor and some screws were missing, then maybe the reluctor and pickup are not set properly. Did you use a non-magnetic feeler gauge to set the gap? Pictures would help.
We need a Connecticut member who could go over and personally help. I can't think of anyone though.
 
It’s got aftermarket electronic ignition. See where it’s cracked right by the arm, well we moved that little box to a more grounded place on the engine. We are tackling the problems slowly one day at a time and hope we are getting closer

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I personally would not keep a plastic fuel filter on top of a BB Chrysler engine .
 
It’s got aftermarket electronic ignition. See where it’s cracked right by the arm, well we moved that little box to a more grounded place on the engine. We are tackling the problems slowly one day at a time and hope we are getting closer
Good pictures. Yes, it has electronic ignition, but I have a follow up question. The little box you mentioned, is it the one circled in red or the one circled in blue?

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It’s got aftermarket electronic ignition. See where it’s cracked right by the arm, well we moved that little box to a more grounded place on the engine. We are tackling the problems slowly one day at a time and hope we are getting closer

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The ECU is circled in red. The other one looks like a starter relay.
I think he's asking: Which box is cracked?

Generally, cracked components should be replaced is my guess at the reason for Theo's question.
 
So the ecu is brand new, the starter relay wasn’t cracked it was on a bad part of the firewall so we moved it. As we eliminate problems we are now down to it’s probably just a bad ground, but where is what we don’t know
 
So the ecu is brand new, the starter relay wasn’t cracked it was on a bad part of the firewall so we moved it. As we eliminate problems we are now down to it’s probably just a bad ground, but where is what we don’t know
If the distributor was missing screws, I'd suspect the magnetic pickup under the distributor cap.

You could use a test light connected at the negative battery terminal to see if the distributor is getting power and also turning ground off and on. When you check ground off/on, you'd have to disconnect the 2-wire connector at the distributor and use a jumper wire on the power lead. Then someone would turn the key while you held the point of the test light against the negative lead from the distributor.
 
So the ecu is brand new, the starter relay wasn’t cracked it was on a bad part of the firewall so we moved it. As we eliminate problems we are now down to it’s probably just a bad ground, but where is what we don’t know
Starter relay position shouldn't matter, as long as the engine cranks it's good.

If you suspect a bad ground it can pretty much only be a bad ground on the ECU. If you have a couple length of wire you could connect the ECU directly with the negatieve post of the battery.
 
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