carb spacer for my new yorker

[GOLDMYN]

Hi, just got done installing this 1/4 carb spacer, I wanted this particular size so I could use the stock linkage and the hood would close. everything went fine and on a 86 degree day, the car ran fine. it was close on the ac as shown

Dashman's, Hot rod and custom speed equipment parts - Dashman's, Hot rod and custom speed equipment parts

 

[mopar440]

Were you having hot soak issues? This fixed it?

 

[CBODY67]

That's about the thickness of the OEM base gasket. The pressed paper one that has the plastic or metal grommets in the carb stud holes so you don't over-tighten it and break the baseplate.

Glad it works!
CBODY67

 

[GOLDMYN]

The engine was slow starting when hot, had to crank it, well see how this works

 

[mopar440]

The engine was slow starting when hot, had to crank it, well see how this works

K, I'm having kinda the same issue, can't tell if boil out or flooding yet

 

[cbarge]

I see you are running electric choke...
To further improve hot starts and eliminate fuel purcolation, remove the intake and block the heat crossover passages.
Drops temps under carb byv100 degrees.
You don't need the heat crossover with electric choke.
Cheers.

 

[CBODY67]

By the same token, you might consider also removing the insulator/foil pack that goes between the intake manifold and the valley pan gasket, too, for more air circulation under the manifold.

One factory source (I believe) mentioned that it was there to keep the valley pan from cracking from engine harmonic vibrations, acting as a damper of such, BUT it can also impede the cooling effect of air flow under the manifold, too. Maybe using TWO and placing them longitudinally near the cylinder heads rather than one in the middle?

Maybe even paint the bottom of the intake manifold with some shiny silver/reflective paint? When parking, heading the car into the wind might not hurt either, if possible.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[James Romano]

Hi, just got done installing this 1/4 carb spacer, I wanted this particular size so I could use the stock linkage and the hood would close. everything went fine and on a 86 degree day, the car ran fine. it was close on the ac as shownView attachment 383364 View attachment 383365 View attachment 383366

Dashman's, Hot rod and custom speed equipment parts - Dashman's, Hot rod and custom speed equipment parts

I ordered the same unit as well. I'm waiting for it to come in. I've been having a lot of issues with fuel perculation/boiling as well.

I did find that airflow in my engine bay is a big part of it as well. I have a 17" electric fan that does a good job of cooling the radiator, but poor job of moving air in the engine bay. I swapped my dual snorkel back to my smaller unsilenced air cleaner, which allows a lot more area for the air to move, and I dialed down the fan to come on sooner to keep the motor at around 180-185.

This week going to swap out my stock water pump with a high flow unit, as well as a high flow thermostat. I'm also going to install that heat plate and swap the original manifold tray with the Fel-pro heat blocker. With all this, I should see a big difference in the temps and hopefully control this issue.

I've had some spots where my motor woul lope like it had a cam, then lurch forward nearly hitting into the wall of my garage as I pulled in..issues in parking lots...etc.

There are a lot of options to fix this, depends on how far from OEM you want to go. Even putting in a return line to the tank from a ported fuel filter will help a lot.

My last ditch is to do that and also go back to a mechanical clutch fan.

 

[James Romano]

By the same token, you might consider also removing the insulator/foil pack that goes between the intake manifold and the valley pan gasket, too, for more air circulation under the manifold.

One factory source (I believe) mentioned that it was there to keep the valley pan from cracking from engine harmonic vibrations, acting as a damper of such, BUT it can also impede the cooling effect of air flow under the manifold, too. Maybe using TWO and placing them longitudinally near the cylinder heads rather than one in the middle?

Maybe even paint the bottom of the intake manifold with some shiny silver/reflective paint? When parking, heading the car into the wind might not hurt either, if possible.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

I've read that as well...and that it's there to deaden the lifter noise.

I still have my original insulation pieces under the intake manifold. I agree with you, looking at how high the intake will be over the pan, it will be very good airflow from a stock mechanical fan without the front plate and the padded insulation under the manifold