WANTED Carter 3 step Metering rods for 64 Imperial
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64Imperial
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Hey it's 3256s (it's actually in the 1963 service manual)
I'm just looking to build like a "kit". Currently it looks like its running rich, but I may worn out piston rings or valve seals causing oil fouling on the spark plugs. I'm just trying to eliminate as much as possible to get down to the real issue.
I'm going to tune it up and make sure the timing is correct and see what happens.
I just cleaned up the carburetor and added new floats and gaskets. The floats had holes in them and wasn't working properly.
I have a 3 step rod and it looks like I have the smallest jet in the "high" jet type.
I'm open to suggestions but I wanted to see what was out there that could also help if it ends up being a carburetor problem.
CBODY67
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The first thing I reacted to (when I saw your post) was the request for 3-step metering rods AND you had the dimensions for them (which are not in the factory service manual). Typically, AFBs had 2-step rods, but the '63 FSM illustrates a 3-step rod. Prior to this, I was under the presumption that all AFBs had 2-dtep rods and the 3-step rods did not start until the AVS was introduced.
As to getting new rods, back in the mid-1970s, Carter sold "Strip Kits" for AFBs and AVS carbs. A selection of main jets, secondary jets, primary metering rods, and a few primary power piston springs, as I recall. They also included a spec sheet for the carbs, relating to OEM specs for metering rods, jets, etc. I bought one for my '70 Monaco 383 "N" car with an AVS. Bought the car in mid-1975. Had the OEM AVS on it.
After I got the Strip Kit, I was driving the car daily to work and back and keeping detailed notes on mpg and such. I put in a few sets of primary rods (leaving the main jets stock). I did not go very far from OEM, but I also did NOT notice any differences in mpg or performance.
When I bought my '67 Newport 383 4bbl car, it had the OEM AFB on it with the 2-step rods. Allegedly, you were not supposed to put 3-step rods in place of the 2-step rods. I could tell no difference when I did that. So I put the 2-step rods back in it.
Edelbrock still sells a "Strip Kit" for their AFBs and AVS carbs. Available from Summit and probably Jegs. Used to be about $55.00, as I recall.
IF you are chasing a "rich" condition and/or oil fouling of spark plugs, the best first thing to do would be to get a borescope attachment for your computer or phone. Then you can see what's inside the cyl and on top of the pistons. If the oil rings are the issue, there will be "washed clean" areas around the outer edge of the pistons. Oil coming up "from the bottom side of things".
Oil coming from the top side (i.e., valve guides) can result in a more uniform look to the piston tops and probably some accumulation in the valve stems below the guides. Putting in new valve guide seals (which can be done on the engine) can help in the short term as guide wear is usually what wallers them out. But at the engine's age, they might have broken or come apart.
For the borescope . . . you can get a full hand-held item at Harbor Freight, with a color display, self-contained. Then "ChrisFix" YouTube channel has some piston top videos on "engine fuel system cleaner" videos, so you know what to look for.
For the automatic choke thermostat to get hot and work as it should, the exhaust crossover passage in the intake manifold MUST be open so the choke comes off as soon as it can.
Check the choke pull-off too. As the choke thermostats get tighter with age, might need to set it 1-2 marks LEANER than factory spec.
I'm suspecting the car has been driven not much, so with a fresh oil change, some fresh as in the tank, tires reliably full of air (32psi), you might take it on a 100 mile or so freeway run at 60-70mph, maybe longer, if possible. Then, when done, park it and let it sit until the next day or so so you can pull the plugs and look at them. Looking for "good burning" evidence in the porcelin colr and such. Plus a check of the oil level. for good measure. Then, with those checks, I'd start "doing things" as needed/possible.
As to the metering rods, you can get the Strip Kit, but I doubt that will be where your problems are OR will make any significant difference, from my prior experiences.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
As to getting new rods, back in the mid-1970s, Carter sold "Strip Kits" for AFBs and AVS carbs. A selection of main jets, secondary jets, primary metering rods, and a few primary power piston springs, as I recall. They also included a spec sheet for the carbs, relating to OEM specs for metering rods, jets, etc. I bought one for my '70 Monaco 383 "N" car with an AVS. Bought the car in mid-1975. Had the OEM AVS on it.
After I got the Strip Kit, I was driving the car daily to work and back and keeping detailed notes on mpg and such. I put in a few sets of primary rods (leaving the main jets stock). I did not go very far from OEM, but I also did NOT notice any differences in mpg or performance.
When I bought my '67 Newport 383 4bbl car, it had the OEM AFB on it with the 2-step rods. Allegedly, you were not supposed to put 3-step rods in place of the 2-step rods. I could tell no difference when I did that. So I put the 2-step rods back in it.
Edelbrock still sells a "Strip Kit" for their AFBs and AVS carbs. Available from Summit and probably Jegs. Used to be about $55.00, as I recall.
IF you are chasing a "rich" condition and/or oil fouling of spark plugs, the best first thing to do would be to get a borescope attachment for your computer or phone. Then you can see what's inside the cyl and on top of the pistons. If the oil rings are the issue, there will be "washed clean" areas around the outer edge of the pistons. Oil coming up "from the bottom side of things".
Oil coming from the top side (i.e., valve guides) can result in a more uniform look to the piston tops and probably some accumulation in the valve stems below the guides. Putting in new valve guide seals (which can be done on the engine) can help in the short term as guide wear is usually what wallers them out. But at the engine's age, they might have broken or come apart.
For the borescope . . . you can get a full hand-held item at Harbor Freight, with a color display, self-contained. Then "ChrisFix" YouTube channel has some piston top videos on "engine fuel system cleaner" videos, so you know what to look for.
For the automatic choke thermostat to get hot and work as it should, the exhaust crossover passage in the intake manifold MUST be open so the choke comes off as soon as it can.
Check the choke pull-off too. As the choke thermostats get tighter with age, might need to set it 1-2 marks LEANER than factory spec.
I'm suspecting the car has been driven not much, so with a fresh oil change, some fresh as in the tank, tires reliably full of air (32psi), you might take it on a 100 mile or so freeway run at 60-70mph, maybe longer, if possible. Then, when done, park it and let it sit until the next day or so so you can pull the plugs and look at them. Looking for "good burning" evidence in the porcelin colr and such. Plus a check of the oil level. for good measure. Then, with those checks, I'd start "doing things" as needed/possible.
As to the metering rods, you can get the Strip Kit, but I doubt that will be where your problems are OR will make any significant difference, from my prior experiences.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
64Imperial
Member
Hey thank you so much for your advice! I'll definitely get a look inside the cylinders and see what's going on!
I'll keep an eye out for a strip kit if one ever pops up just to have on hand. Or convert to 2 step rods. You never know with today's gas!
I'll check out my choke too. It functions but like you said it may need changed a bit if it's getting tight and not working correctly.
Thank you so much!
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