Cat’s Out Of The Bag, ‘65 300L Manual Trans, A/C and More

[fury fan]

I understand, organizing things takes time. BTDT, and still reorganizing things periodically.
Sometimes I wonder if I'd get more done just trying to find things than trying to organize and label things so I don't lose time lookign for them.

I'll get an Alert when you do an update, so take your time.

 

[haywire 440]

Back at petting the Cat”, 1-18-23.

Here’s a few more pictures of the L’s engine bay.

Radiator # which the White Book states “+300L” even though it’s listed for automatic transmission and this is a 4-speed.

Above is the radiator date code.

Below is what was under the stock air cleaner housing (ugly only a relative could love).

At least the number is correct for the 413.
As a side note and probably a reason why the ‘65L was a disappointment for Letter Car Enthusiasts this same carburetor is used on the 383 for 1965.
Talk about under fueling and holding the 413 back.

At least there’s a Power Steering Cooler!

Well the hood is missing the safety latch and that’s an important piece. This will be my 1st WTB advertisement.

The A/C compressor tag looks darn nice. A functional cooling temperature control is something I look forward to.

This is what the tops of the vehicle look like with what’s there of the original paint.

I imagine cutting and buffing as lightly as possible to preserve it is the way to approach it for now. Certainly please cut loose with your insights.

This is the only holes I have seen on the outside metal and honestly just saw it now while jotting all this down. It’s in the left front fender In front of the wheel.

So that’s all for now.

 

[Snotty]

My folk's '65 Newport 383 HP had a Power Steering cooler, but it was mounted by the pump itself, and was smaller than the one in your picture.

 

[haywire 440]

Looks very nice! No hood pad?

Great score!

CBODY67

Good call, it should have the hood pad. I just pulled out the build sheet and it looks great.

Though there’s an Am/Fm Radio in the dash the bs calls for a deluxe Am. Interesting.

For those interested here’s the bs.

Polish Paint is also intriguing.

 

[fury fan]

Polish Paint is also intriguing.

I presume that's a verb, and not a geographical location of the paint supplier.

 

[haywire 440]

I’m back thinking and tinkering with the 413 engine as Aero Kroil was sprayed into the cylinders when it first arrived in the garage. Tried several times to turn the crankshaft nut no success, a few days later no success, more Kroil spray, more waiting. A few weeks it’s a no turn situation so pumped some transmission fluid and waited again but no success this time too.

The next thought is maybe a valve is stuck so I’m preparing to remove everything down to the cylinder heads. Just taking some time to make room for the parts to keep it organized. Taking pictures along the way.

What are the thoughts on this path?

In the mean time I’ve been thinking about the Silver paint and it’s condition. I know I mentioned cutting and buffing, jumped ahead of myself, but there are the rust spots poking thru the paint.

One suggestion was to use a one step cleaner/wax, like Blackfire, with an orbital polisher. Then use Meguiar #7 Glaze and after that treat it with a traditional Carnauba wax or synthetic sealant.

The use of a clay bar first was discussed but with the rust it was not a good idea because of the rust particles.

One last item, there is a AM/FM radio in the dash but the bs is marked for just an AM. Could this have been a factory mistake/upgrade or a dealer installed or maybe just the owner at the time replacing the radio?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Regarding the radio - it was easy to swap an AM/FM in place of the original AM if they were of the same style - non-signal searchers interchange, but the signal searchers had different shaft spacing and hence a different dash faceplate to accomodate. Your radio could easily have been switched out over the years.

Regarding the engine - make a mix 50/50 of transmission fluid and acetone, and put some of that in the cylinders. This renders the trans fluid a bit thinner, and will creep further. The distributor gear assembly may also be stuck, adding to the issue. No harm in putting some of the 50/50 mix down there too.

If you're going to take the cylinder heads off, then you can definitely get some answers to the issue.

If you're going to attempt to clean up the paint, then wipe down the rust spots (how bad are they?) with some rust remover like CLR, then really clean that stuff off. If it takes care of the visible rust spots, then you may simply have some paint chip rust, and nothing serious... but I don't remember how the body looked in the photos. You may be pleasantly surprised at how it comes up if the rust spots are minor and they're reduced prior to cut and polish.

 

[haywire 440]

Regarding the radio - it was easy to swap an AM/FM in place of the original AM if they were of the same style - non-signal searchers interchange, but the signal searchers had different shaft spacing and hence a different dash faceplate to accomodate. Your radio could easily have been switched out over the years.

Regarding the engine - make a mix 50/50 of transmission fluid and acetone, and put some of that in the cylinders. This renders the trans fluid a bit thinner, and will creep further. The distributor gear assembly may also be stuck, adding to the issue. No harm in putting some of the 50/50 mix down there too.

If you're going to take the cylinder heads off, then you can definitely get some answers to the issue.

If you're going to attempt to clean up the paint, then wipe down the rust spots (how bad are they?) with some rust remover like CLR, then really clean that stuff off. If it takes care of the visible rust spots, then you may simply have some paint chip rust, and nothing serious... but I don't remember how the body looked in the photos. You may be pleasantly surprised at how it comes up if the rust spots are minor and they're reduced prior to cut and polish.

A new car battery was purchased two days ago so the electric system will be examined, the radio, power windows, seat and other components. Your thoughts on the radio question is logical.

I’ve read here about the 50/50 mixture and thought that Kroil was similar. I’ll try that too.

I hadn’t thought of the distributor gear and will follow through with looking at that, thanks.

The paint does have rust that can be easily felt. There was mention, on line, about using a rust removal liquid but one reason not to use any was because the chemical could seep under the paint and could make the situation worse. I do see that you emphasize cleaning/removing the rust remover. The discussion didn’t mention CLR or any brand of rust remover, so I’m not sure what was used. There was a comment on using Comet, but only on a “beater” car. My goal in treating the paint is to make it look its’ best.
Same with the chrome.

I appreciate your response and direction.

 

[fury fan]

Run a shopvac over the intake and exh ports, perhaps gently probing in there for loose crud.
If you have, or can make, a prybar that will work on the rocker arms, you can check for a stuck valve that way.
Or remove the rocker shafts - if the tops aren't aligned nicely with the shaft removed you've found a candidate.
Pressurize the cylinders with shop air, and gently rap the valves with a deadblow hammer to see if they are free.
I had a stuck 440 that I freed up in this manner. (although IIRC it did turn a little).

If the rockers are removed and you pressurize the cylinders, that will also help force the solvent down past the rings (unless you have leaky valves that bleed off the air).

 

[SGT FURY]

I have this 65 300 available for parts if you need anything?
Just waiting for my backyard yard to dry out a bit!

 

[69CoronetRT]

Polish Paint is also intriguing.

NN1 was an extra cost paint. It's common to find this notation with the Silvers of that era as they required additional buffing. You find it quite a bit with the 66-68 AA1 paint.

 

[haywire 440]

Making some headway with dismantling the engine top end. I received some good recommendation here to troubleshoot the inability to rotate the engine by using a breaker bar on the crankshaft nut. I’ve been utilizing those tips.

This is the first picture of the engine compartment above.
Below is the start photo to document how brackets etc. are attached.

The A/C compressor is off exposing the engine stampings.

Distributor was next, dual point with a worn tag.

Inside the hole and oil pump gear.

From underneath the car while on the lift the block date is located.

Back on top the days work finished with the removal of carburetor and valve covers. No surprises yet.

 

[haywire 440]

Before removing the heads the valves were “pried” down to make sure none were stuck. They all moved.

I had been thinking the night before that though I had spun the rear wheels, while the car was off the floor, weeks ago to check for a limited slip differential (it is) I didn’t remember if the manual transmission was in gear or not. Whoops

Now months ago, while first examining this vehicle, the process of trying to turn the crankshaft by breaker bar/socket was performed. Even had someone depressing the clutch pedal while moving the Hurst Shifter into neutral to no avail.

But what about now? The vehicle was lifted and the tires didn’t move…what? Lowered the 300 and the shifter was stumberly moved to neutral. Car goes back up, tires still won’t rotate…?
Down again, same process, up again, it’s a no go. The shifter/trans seems jammed.

My thinking, is that the problem? Off comes the shifter rods because something doesn’t look right. Using a crescent wrench the controls of the manual is jimmied a bit and now the rear tires can be moved. I believe it was stuck between gears.

Unfortunately that didn’t solve the problem. Well I think I covered all the possibilities so on to removing the exhaust parts. I’m trying to save anything worth saving. If for nothing else than documentation and questions.

Some underside and exhaust photos.

These mufflers are huge and long, sorry I didn’t get a measurement.
There are Mopar numbers on them and a date code if someone know it?
My guess #1 made 6th month of 1973 and the other 9th month of 1973.

Unfortunately ends are rotted.

More exhaust pictures in the next post

 

[haywire 440]

Tailpipes with turndown ends.
(I edited out that these pipe were solid, my mistake)

Off come the exhaust manifolds without cutting off the flange nuts. The car lift gave good clearance to finagle the drivers side out pass the torsion bar. The passenger side was east.

There was a notch or bend in the driver’s side, it looks maybe factory because it’s right where the torsion bar is located. Could that be true?

 

[haywire 440]

The Hurst Competition Plus shifter. The stamped information is hard to read. I figure it will need to be rebuilt and have read about Doc Shifter and their Hurst connections. Any comments on this ?

 

[69CoronetRT]

View attachment 581943
Before removing the heads the valves were “pried” down to make sure none were stuck. They all moved.

I had been thinking the night before that though I had spun the rear wheels, while the car was off the floor, weeks ago to check for a limited slip differential (it is) I didn’t remember if the manual transmission was in gear or not. Whoops

Now months ago, while first examining this vehicle, the process of trying to turn the crankshaft by breaker bar/socket was performed. Even had someone depressing the clutch pedal while moving the Hurst Shifter into neutral to no avail.

But what about now? The vehicle was lifted and the tires didn’t move…what? Lowered the 300 and the shifter was stumberly moved to neutral. Car goes back up, tires still won’t rotate…?
Down again, same process, up again, it’s a no go. The shifter/trans seems jammed.

My thinking, is that the problem? Off comes the shifter rods because something doesn’t look right. Using a crescent wrench the controls of the manual is jimmied a bit and now the rear tires can be moved. I believe it was stuck between gears.

Unfortunately that didn’t solve the problem. Well I think I covered all the possibilities so on to removing the exhaust parts. I’m trying to save anything worth saving. If for nothing else than documentation and questions.

Some underside and exhaust photos.

View attachment 581944

View attachment 581951

View attachment 581945
View attachment 581946
View attachment 581947

These mufflers are huge and long, sorry I didn’t get a measurement.
There are Mopar numbers on them and a date code if someone know it?
My guess #1 made 6th month of 1973 and the other 9th month of 1973.
View attachment 581948
View attachment 581949
Unfortunately ends are rotted.
View attachment 581950
More exhaust pictures in the next post

Fwiw…I agree on the date code. 6 and 9 of 1973.

 

[haywire 440]

Fwiw…I agree on the date code. 6 and 9 of 1973.

Another reason to show the mufflers is I sort of remember a general conversation here, maybe with a reproduction exhaust manufacturer/business that was looking for original font stamping size and script. I wasn’t able to find that thread.

 

[haywire 440]

The Hurst Competition Plus shifter. The stamped information is hard to read. I figure it will need to be rebuilt and have read about Doc Shifter and their Hurst connections. Any comments on this ?

View attachment 581960

Would it be more cost effective and ok to just purchase a new shifter Hurst mechanism?

 

[PH27L7]

The Hurst Competition Plus shifter. The stamped information is hard to read. I figure it will need to be rebuilt and have read about Doc Shifter and their Hurst connections. Any comments on this ?

View attachment 581960

If you're ambitious you can disassemble the shifter & relube. Over time the original lube petrifies & makes shifting very difficult. I've never seen one with as much surface rust but in your case I'd just dip the steel pieces in rust remover as necessary. The internal shims are stainless steel. I had Hurst rebuild an old shifter years ago but honestly I prefer my own work, unless parts are broken DIY is better. I have an '65 identical shifter which I redid but unfortunately did not take pics of the numbers, believe it had the part # & said patent pending. I do have some disassembly pics. Nice thing about the early shifters is they have the shift stops.

The originallity of your car is amazing. I believe those tailpipes are original, that's the way they cut the tips back then. In fact the whole exhaust looks original except perhaps the mufflers, I'm no expert on muffler date codes.

 

[haywire 440]

Well I got to thinking again and to intensify the sensation I turned my ball cap around and got down cleaning up the Hurst shifter mechanism.

I also learned about the “centering pin” from a b/bodies post and found what I really was looking for on b-bodies a link to “How to rebuild a Hurst bayonet shifter” over on a-bodies. I will look that over.

How to Rebuild Hurst Shifter

In the mean time here my cleaning efforts before a soaking in Evaporust.

The below picture shows a machine screw that’s long enough to use as the centering pin while reinstalling the shifter and rods.