Catastrophic Rim Failure; Factory Original 14" Stamped Steel Rim

Gerald Morris

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Not in nigh 63 yrs in this world have I ever seen the like of what befell me this evening. I'd just dropped my middle child off at her art class, and turned back into traffic intent on a Sprawlmart run when Disaster struck!
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FAILED-RIM.jpg


I thank my God this didn't occur while in transit TO the class while driving at normal cruising speed! All the same, as I slowly accelerated, up to just about 30 mph, the driver side front WOBBLED, then I saw the tire rolling sharply away left when my brake drum smacked down onto the asphalt. I rejoice that the car actually rolled on that drum the several feet seen in the first pic, getting Gertrude OUT of traffic onto a golf course parking lot. There, I pried the inner portion of the rim enough to turn 2 of the bolts which were stuck fast by the bend in the piece, while I'd already loosened the other 3 lug nuts. Note, all nuts were torqued to spec, no more or less, clean threaded too.

I got the stock bumper jack under the notch in the lower bumper with the assistance of a saintly young man named Joseph who offered assistance. With his Harbor Freight floor jack AND my bumper jack working in tandem, the hub was quickly raised, and the spare installed.

As noted elsewhere, I'm in the midst of aligning this brand new assembly, post install. Despite having contacted several "professional" shops, with one call back disavowing any ability to work on this car, despite their being a "classic shop" while totally ignored by the others, I'm again compelled to Do It All. Just as well.....

Still, I'm sharing this data to warn others that these factory rims CAN FAIL!!!

The little bubble gauge and toe plates I ordered were in my desk chair after I showed my Balkan Babushka the adventure I had this evening. We own a set of Rally Rims, the 16 slot sort, 15" x 6". BEFORE I commit to new rubber on these, I WILL inspect them CAREFULLY!!. I might even consult a "tire pro" if I can find one honest AND competent. Runny nosed sorts won't be disturbed with my issues though, rest assured.

WHO among you, my Moparians, has seen this sort of failure before? I've seen poorly installed HUBS come loose, and I've seen STUDS fail, sure, but THIS **** WITH FACTORY STAMPED STEEL HAVING TWO SEPARATE PORTIONS IS BAAAAAAD ****!!!

I concede, the alignment wasn't, and isn't yet perfect, but I've certainly driven worse. I reckon that after the previous 3 months of abuse, this rim simply let go, despite being on a far sounder basis than it had been since this past February.

Now I expect I'll have to buy another damned DRUM, in addition to RUBBER. The latter expense actually will amount to more but I begrudge every penny, except when absolutely necessary. I'll check this drum out before dropping for a new one. the brakes don't shimmy when I apply them, which actually bodes well, but, this needs to be seen in strong light with some measurements taken.
 
I can't say I ever saw one break quite like that, but I'll bet it cracked in a curb or pot hole hit sometime in its past. Could have been years ago before you acquired it.

A small crack, over time, becomes a larger crack until it becomes large enough for total failure.

It might be worth pulling the other wheels and doing an inspection. It would also be worth seeing if this was a genuine Mopar wheel or some replacement.

Next time I have any wheels off, I think I'm going to play closer attention.

@cbarge may have some input.
 
I've read many times of the possibility of rim failure when using radial tires on rims originally meant for bias ply tires but never have seen someone post it actually happened to them.
 
back in the 70's and 80's oval track racing these things rim failures were NOT uncommon...putting more stress on a part than it was designed to handle will do that..."police car" rims were the solution...after half a century you never know what a previous owner subjected a part to...
 
Never seen that part of a wheel fail or deform. Usually in the outer bead area. Bent (steel) or crack (alloy), though.

Might consider a magnaflux or zyglow check for cracks?

GLAD it was not worse!

CBODY67
 
I can't say I ever saw one break quite like that, but I'll bet it cracked in a curb or pot hole hit sometime in its past. Could have been years ago before you acquired it.

A small crack, over time, becomes a larger crack until it becomes large enough for total failure.

It might be worth pulling the other wheels and doing an inspection. It would also be worth seeing if this was a genuine Mopar wheel or some replacement.

Next time I have any wheels off, I think I'm going to play closer attention.

@cbarge may have some input.

No question of the origin; these are original to this car. I see fine separation lines on the spare I put on yestereve to get home. NOT comforting! I have plenty 15" rims, inc 5 of the 16 slot (ca ~ 1971?) rally rims. I'll start w 2 of these, for the rear, thus freeing up a spare for the trunk again. God-willing, the $ will come in this autumn, and we will be able to get all 5 of those rims rubbered and supporting Gertrude SAFELY. I know my old rims fr Mathilda are 1 piece aluminum.

This failure was no crack. The inner ring clearly is stamped into the outer, tire ring, thus enabling the maker to use various bolt patterns all w the same sized tire rims. EVIL, CHEAP, PROFITABLE **** WHEELS!!! Like the LCA itself, I can see how the beancounters insisted, and got their way with this crap. I wonder if the maker of these "wunder-wheelz" sold this crap to the 3 OTHER U.$. auto-corps. I suspect this occurred. NOT a good advert for running the original wheels.....

These barrio streets play hell with all the suspension on any motor vehicle. My KYB "Gas-Adjust" shocks already are allowing reverberating bounce. ++ungood
 
back in the 70's and 80's oval track racing these things rim failures were NOT uncommon...putting more stress on a part than it was designed to handle will do that..."police car" rims were the solution...after half a century you never know what a previous owner subjected a part to...

AH! Good data! So, there WERE many of these stamped ****-rims, they failed, and the makers sold better, 1 piece stuff as the solution. Good to know. I DAMN SURE will be checking ALL my 15" rims before rubbering them, from now on.
 
Never seen that part of a wheel fail or deform. Usually in the outer bead area. Bent (steel) or crack (alloy), though.

Might consider a magnaflux or zyglow check for cracks?

GLAD it was not worse!

CBODY67

**** was brand new to me too bro! I'll look into whether magnaflux, sonar or what is cost effective, but since 15" rims ABOUND in my storage locker, I reckon the most cost effective solution will be to move up my transition to either the rally rims, (IFF they're safe) or some of the other stuff I have. I'm DONE WITH 14 INCH STUFF THOUGH!! I like having a nice bit of balloon sidewall to cushion our old vehicles ride, as they were designed for, so the modern rims I hope to avoid...
 
My dad bought a new 66 Newport. On the drive from Calif. to Oklahoma with my mom driving my dad woke up and noticed that the steering wheel was far off center. Had mom pull over and saw the rear tire was almost flat due to the outer rim had split. Later we found out that some 66's we recalled for this problem.
 
A fluke IMO. Having owned and operated an all Mopar wrecking yard for over 30 years, I never saw a factory wheel break in that fashion. Aftermarket wheels, yes..... especially Cragars, but never a stock steel wheel....even real bent ones from accidents. Weird.
 
I can't say I ever saw one break quite like that, but I'll bet it cracked in a curb or pot hole hit sometime in its past. Could have been years ago before you acquired it.

A small crack, over time, becomes a larger crack until it becomes large enough for total failure.

It might be worth pulling the other wheels and doing an inspection. It would also be worth seeing if this was a genuine Mopar wheel or some replacement.

Next time I have any wheels off, I think I'm going to play closer attention.

@cbarge may have some input.
Wow! Never seen that before!!!
 
My dad bought a new 66 Newport. On the drive from Calif. to Oklahoma with my mom driving my dad woke up and noticed that the steering wheel was far off center. Had mom pull over and saw the rear tire was almost flat due to the outer rim had split. Later we found out that some 66's we recalled for this problem.

Good **** to know. I'm junking those wheels, ASAP. Am shopping for good 225/70R15s for my rally rims today.
 
Wish I could see the edge of the center piece. I use to lead a DPA (Destructive Physical Analyses) department for a military/Space company.
Thanks Bro!
LET'S ANALYZE THIS ****!!!

This first pic shows an edge view of the last 2 lugs/studs which were attached. The center piece bent here while the rest of the thing separated cleanly, putting ALL the retentive forces on these last 2 lugnuts before the center bent out, then releasing the outer portion of the wheel, which got clipped by the falling car body, thus cutting the tire.

failed-center-piece-last-2-lugs-bent-torn-edge.jpg


Here's a view of the edge, 180 degrees from the bent part. Note how cleanly this portion separated from the rim! No great damage here. I spun 3 of the 5 lugs loose sans difficulty. The one torn stud-hole up above resulted from my having to bend the disc back some to permit the lugnut to accept a socket. I STILL had to FIRST USE A HEAVY CRESCENT WRENCH, part of my general emergency tool complement. I used the same wrench to bend the sheetmetal back enough for my 13/16" socket to work.
failed-center-piece-last-edge-approx-180-degrees-fr-warped-portion.jpg

270 degrees rotation from the first view. One can barely discern any trauma to the disc here.
failed-center-piece-last-edge-approx-90-degrees-fr-warped-portion.jpg

Just 90 degrees from the tear. Again, I did that removing the disc. Had to. Again, see how clean the rest of the damned thing is?
failed-center-piece-overhead-inside-up.jpg

View of the hubside of the disc. Not too much to see here really.
failed-center-piece-overhead-outside-up.jpg

And last, the outside, face up on my 6 yr old's little school desk. Is there more to this event than what I've described? How do these tea leaves look to you bro? I appreciate your thoughts.

failed-center-piece-last-edge-approx-270-degrees-fr-warped-portion.jpg
 
A fluke IMO. Having owned and operated an all Mopar wrecking yard for over 30 years, I never saw a factory wheel break in that fashion. Aftermarket wheels, yes..... especially Cragars, but never a stock steel wheel....even real bent ones from accidents. Weird.

Shows **** like this CAN happen. Given the nature of this convertible, that it was an Export, meant for COLD CLIMATE, and in some small ways hastily slapped together for an order, I'm not utterly surprised that some Dealer or lower manager would have used bottom shelf wheels to get the order out the gate, into the military buyer's hands. The paint on these wheels matches what's on the car very exactly. I don't question that all this car came from MaPar. I've seen FoMoCo wiring harness in my '66, for the engine compartment leading to the front lights. I might even still HAVE that tidbit.... I took as much off Mathilda's wreck as I could when the damned landlord forced me to get rid of her moldering carcass.
 
Thanks Bro!
LET'S ANALYZE THIS ****!!!

This first pic shows an edge view of the last 2 lugs/studs which were attached. The center piece bent here while the rest of the thing separated cleanly, putting ALL the retentive forces on these last 2 lugnuts before the center bent out, then releasing the outer portion of the wheel, which got clipped by the falling car body, thus cutting the tire.

View attachment 723757

Here's a view of the edge, 180 degrees from the bent part. Note how cleanly this portion separated from the rim! No great damage here. I spun 3 of the 5 lugs loose sans difficulty. The one torn stud-hole up above resulted from my having to bend the disc back some to permit the lugnut to accept a socket. I STILL had to FIRST USE A HEAVY CRESCENT WRENCH, part of my general emergency tool complement. I used the same wrench to bend the sheetmetal back enough for my 13/16" socket to work.
View attachment 723758
270 degrees rotation from the first view. One can barely discern any trauma to the disc here.
View attachment 723760
Just 90 degrees from the tear. Again, I did that removing the disc. Had to. Again, see how clean the rest of the damned thing is?
View attachment 723761
View of the hubside of the disc. Not too much to see here really.
View attachment 723762
And last, the outside, face up on my 6 yr old's little school desk. Is there more to this event than what I've described? How do these tea leaves look to you bro? I appreciate your thoughts.

View attachment 723759
I see a lot of fresh torn metal. I am looking for LINE OF RUST/DISCOLOR. Then look for bright shinny metal on the edge, polished looking. That is were the crack was and the two sides of the crack rubbed each other and polished each other. Dull areas are fresh breaks. After that would need a microscope on the edge to look at the grain on the metal.
 
I see a lot of fresh torn metal. I am looking for LINE OF RUST/DISCOLOR. Then look for bright shinny metal on the edge, polished looking. That is were the crack was and the two sides of the crack rubbed each other and polished each other. Dull areas are fresh breaks. After that would need a microscope on the edge to look at the grain on the metal.

There is NO rust man. The edge of the metal is mostly dull all around the disk, but you can see some grain to it where it rubbed as the rim tore loose from it...

Check this fresh pic out:
failed-center-piece-dull-tab-by-bent-lug-hole-2x.jpg

See how dull the metal is on that tab, next to the torn lug-hole? I zoomed the original up 200% and cut away my leg from the image, to better focus on the failed disc here.


I suppose it might have cracked on that one lug hole, which I later had to bend around and tear the thing as I did so, to remove the lug, so I can look for oxidation there....

I'll use my magnifying glass maybe, or a jewelers loop I have, to see if I can get my shitty phone cam to show the grain of the disc to you. I heard some noise from the wheel the morning before, as I drove 5 mi downtown to and fro my dope clinic, so there's 10 miles. I thought that my brakes were a trifle off maybe, or that the damn cotter pin had dropped from the spindle perhaps, permitting the retaining nut to start backing off. I had that happen once on that same spindle, while it was on the '66, but I caught it in good time, tightened the nut back, dropped a nail through the cotter pin hole and had no further issue then. Different wheel and all on the spindle too.

I'll try for some more detail. The tabs on the disk, and the matching slots for them on the rim itself leave no doubt of the fact that this wheel, and its companions, all are pressed together at this point, expected to hold together, but this damned thing didn't. It looks like the rally rims are solid until one gets beyond the chrome plated, silvery looking section. I washed one off as my first stage of checking IT for bad ****. If lacking visible faults, I reckon I'll prime, paint, then rubber them.

I'm checking camber and toe-in tomorrow, IFF I can get up before dawn. I should check the drum also. I saw on the wheel where the car came down on IT, thus cushioning the drop a bit, but still, I rolled some feet on a damned brake drum man! I'm AMAZED the brakes don't shimmy-shake like all hell while applying them. I've had warped drums before, but amazingly enough, this one seems pretty OK, if not perfect. May need to take it to a shop for a fine check, but I need another drum if I do so. Good ones aren't running cheap now. I suppose I can get some new one.

I HATE SUMMERS!
 
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