Clutch Fan for 18.5 inch, 7 Bade Fan.

[Mudeblue]

Redoing my cooling system on my 65 Plymouth SF. Currently running a Griffin aluminum, 22” Sure Fit, with a Dereale 17” pull fan and a 14” push fan. When it gets to 90+ degrees here in Phoenix, have to leave it in storage and wait for winter! Lot of money down the crapper not to mention time, frustration and invention of new words! Radiator is new has been polished looks good, has aluminum shroud and with 17” pull fan if anyone interested to be used in a -100 degree environment; reasonable price! (Total invested in parts of $1,500 - ouch).

Looking to install a Ron Davis 26” Radiator with a 7 blade, 18.5” fan with a clutch along with a shroud. Not enough space for electric fans. The 7 blade fan can be found, #2863216, but problem seems to be locating a NEW clutch. Several individuals have told me to stay away from after market reproductions of the clutch but have stated they believe there are now some OEM’s being manufactured. Any suggestions, recommendations? Thanks!

 

[Sixpactogo]

I've seen a couple other of your posts with heating problems on your SF. I'm wondering if you have a serpentine pulley system on your car causing your issues. My 65 383 has a 22" radiator with the stock shroud but I have a thermo clutch 7 blade fan. It will idle all day on a hot day with no overheating. The reason I ask is because I went down that road myself with my Challenger when I put on a March Performance serpentine system. I too spent tons of money trying to correct a problem that I created myself.

 

[CBODY67]

Unlike former times when we could still get OEM quality Dana/Spicer/Perfect Circle fan clutches that LOOKED like they were OEM production items (even with ink stamps), the ONLY real option is now the Hayden fan clutches. They are in "std" or "HD" flavors, which depends upon how much they lock-up when at max cooling settings.

Fun Fact -- Many Chrysler-spec fan clutches also fit Chevrolet small block V-8s! Same shaft length and center hole registers, which means they bolt right on to the water pump. Not sure about the bolt pattern for the fan, but it looks like that will work, too.

Which FIN COUNT does the radiator have? That makes the difference between a normal and High-Efficiency aluminum radiator. The width of the core's tubes also matters! A core with wide 2-rows can cool better than a core with thin 3-row tubes.

Unless the front fan runs faster than the rear fan, it could be blocking/restricting total airflow!

NOW . . . if you want a high-efficiency OEM-spec radiator, order a new composite radiator for a '77 Camaro w/fact a/c (this radiator is the same number as fits '87 ElCaminos and 1/2 ton pickup truck V-8s) AND is the same basic core size as a Chrysler 26" radiator. Only thing is that it will need to be installed in the cross-flow OEM orientation. Which means a some re-routing of the atf cooler lines, AND appropriate brackets to mount it to the Chrysler core support. Less expensive than the "332" Chrysler 26" radiators and should work better, even with normal fan clutches.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[volksworld]

on my BBC motorhome I found that Murray, 4 seasons and Hayden were all the exact same parts with the exact same casting numbers and stamped numbers...all from the same Chinese factory in different boxes from Rockauto, Napa, and OReilly...the 4th one finally worked ...and they all had 3/8 boltholes in the hubs so I had to make sleeves for the 5/16 bolts

 

[CBODY67]

Everybody apparently has been using "universal" mounting flanges for decades. As long as the centering dowel is snug with the inset in the clutch shaft, no sleeves should be needed. Just some substantial flat washers under the bolt head.

CBODY67

 

[Mudeblue]

Yes I am running a serpentine which came as a unit with a/c pump, power steering pump and alternator. The serpentine was the result of installing a/c with factory dash with a/c I got out of Dallas. As part of the restoration, I was attempting to “fix” a problem of overheating here in Phoenix but I had the same problem, to a lesser extent, before I moved from Omaha. Seems a lot of the Mopar folk here in Phoenix fight the same issue with different options and results with no real pattern. After much discussion including spacing issues, this seems to be my best option! A friend here in Phx. Has a 65 SF but running a 440 m and has the setup I am after and has had good success by going to a 26” radiator with this fan setup and runs 180-190 on a hot day. My thought is that if it works for a 440, it should handle my little 383. Ron Davis has been very helpful on my new mission.

 

[Mudeblue]

Unlike former times when we could still get OEM quality Dana/Spicer/Perfect Circle fan clutches that LOOKED like they were OEM production items (even with ink stamps), the ONLY real option is now the Hayden fan clutches. They are in "std" or "HD" flavors, which depends upon how much they lock-up when at max cooling settings.

Fun Fact -- Many Chrysler-spec fan clutches also fit Chevrolet small block V-8s! Same shaft length and center hole registers, which means they bolt right on to the water pump. Not sure about the bolt pattern for the fan, but it looks like that will work, too.

Which FIN COUNT does the radiator have? That makes the difference between a normal and High-Efficiency aluminum radiator. The width of the core's tubes also matters! A core with wide 2-rows can cool better than a core with thin 3-row tubes.

Unless the front fan runs faster than the rear fan, it could be blocking/restricting total airflow!

NOW . . . if you want a high-efficiency OEM-spec radiator, order a new composite radiator for a '77 Camaro w/fact a/c (this radiator is the same number as fits '87 ElCaminos and 1/2 ton pickup truck V-8s) AND is the same basic core size as a Chrysler 26" radiator. Only thing is that it will need to be installed in the cross-flow OEM orientation. Which means a some re-routing of the atf cooler lines, AND appropriate brackets to mount it to the Chrysler core support. Less expensive than the "332" Chrysler 26" radiators and should work better, even with normal fan clutches.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Ron Davis is building a 26” for me which is a design he developed for here in Phx.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I think your overheating issue at idle is due to your serpentine pulleys. Most of them are "under drive." Meaning they under drive the pulleys to increase horsepower. Trouble is, the crank pulley is an inch or two smaller than the factory one. What happens then is the water pump does not move enough coolant and it stays in the engine too long. The alternator and power steering can survive the slower rpm but do suffer some as well. I remember on my Challenger it would over heat at idle and my amp gauge would show a slight discharge at idle. Once I ditched the under drive BS, I had no more heating problems and also noticed my amp gauge stayed at zero at idle also. I know you don't want to hear that cuz those pulleys are sooooo nice and quiet. Maybe they make a larger crank pulley that will solve your problem. Turns out those Mopar designers were smarter than we thought they were. Here are a couple pics. My Challenger Six Pac with the serpentine and my 440 powered truck. Check out the difference in crank pulleys. My Truck could idle with the AC on and never overheat.

 

[wyrmrider]

92 Dakota with Trailer tow and HD cooling
came with 7 blade 3" pitch fan and 185 spring in the clutch fan really noisey
service bulletin
9 blade fan 2 1/2 pitch and 190 (or 195 spring in clutch fan did not come up as often
put on a pusher and it no longer comes on at stoplights with the ac on and ac works better both by feal and by guages
just put on a gm plastic 11 blade fan have not tried it yet but should work great
I can check the dia but almost same as Dalota fan
but remember this is Reverse Rotation serpentine belt drive
so do some searching and junkyard sleuthing
btw I'm using a factory trailer tow 73 NY radiator and condenser from a dual air 78 MAXI Van Imperial radiator tried but not fit without major surgery
if building a radiator 16 fins per inch straight fins serpentine tri flow surface area is more important than thickness
But with some like pre war Ford you have little choice

 

[Darby]

What thermostat are you running? If it's not a 195 degree, you might want to change it. The coolant needs enough time in the radiator to cool and with a cooler thermostat (or no thermostat), it flows through without cooling down enough to keep from overheating (boiling the coolant). I know it sounds weird, but a hotter thermostat can keep an engine from overheating by slowing the flow through the radiator, NOT slowing the circulation through the engine as it heats up. Another item to check is the cap. For every 1 lb. of pressure it will raise the boiling point about 3 degrees. So, if you have a 15 lb. cap, you raise the boiling point about a 45 degrees. There are plenty of cars out there with a 20 lb. cap from the factory to get the extra protection. If you go with a 70% antifreeze to 30% water, you will also raise the boiling point (check the container to see the difference in boil and freeze points). Don't be confused about boiling point and overheating (coolant turning into a vapor). If the coolant didn't boil, you can still heat the engine up too high and hurt it (thinning oil and detonation), but if the coolant boils, it more than likely will overheat. You should be able to drive your car at any temperature, especially if you don't have a/c.

I went with a 26" BeeCool with electric fans. I'm hoping to have the car finished this summer and I don't think I'll have an overheating problem. Keep in mind the cooling system is responsible for 31% of the heat the engine produces, 8% is removed through radiation (what you feel when you raise the hood), 31% goes out the exhaust, and it holds onto 30% because it needs that heat to function properly.

I don't know how you're changing the rad support to fit the 26" radiator, but if you're interested, this is how I modified mine. Good luck!!!!

 

[Mudeblue]

What thermostat are you running? If it's not a 195 degree, you might want to change it. The coolant needs enough time in the radiator to cool and with a cooler thermostat (or no thermostat), it flows through without cooling down enough to keep from overheating (boiling the coolant). I know it sounds weird, but a hotter thermostat can keep an engine from overheating by slowing the flow through the radiator, NOT slowing the circulation through the engine as it heats up. Another item to check is the cap. For every 1 lb. of pressure it will raise the boiling point about 3 degrees. So, if you have a 15 lb. cap, you raise the boiling point about a 45 degrees. There are plenty of cars out there with a 20 lb. cap from the factory to get the extra protection. If you go with a 70% antifreeze to 30% water, you will also raise the boiling point (check the container to see the difference in boil and freeze points). Don't be confused about boiling point and overheating (coolant turning into a vapor). If the coolant didn't boil, you can still heat the engine up too high and hurt it (thinning oil and detonation), but if the coolant boils, it more than likely will overheat. You should be able to drive your car at any temperature, especially if you don't have a/c.

I went with a 26" BeeCool with electric fans. I'm hoping to have the car finished this summer and I don't think I'll have an overheating problem. Keep in mind the cooling system is responsible for 31% of the heat the engine produces, 8% is removed through radiation (what you feel when you raise the hood), 31% goes out the exhaust, and it holds onto 30% because it needs that heat to function properly.

I don't know how you're changing the rad support to fit the 26" radiator, but if you're interested, this is how I modified mine. Good luck!!!!

Thanks for the input

What thermostat are you running? If it's not a 195 degree, you might want to change it. The coolant needs enough time in the radiator to cool and with a cooler thermostat (or no thermostat), it flows through without cooling down enough to keep from overheating (boiling the coolant). I know it sounds weird, but a hotter thermostat can keep an engine from overheating by slowing the flow through the radiator, NOT slowing the circulation through the engine as it heats up. Another item to check is the cap. For every 1 lb. of pressure it will raise the boiling point about 3 degrees. So, if you have a 15 lb. cap, you raise the boiling point about a 45 degrees. There are plenty of cars out there with a 20 lb. cap from the factory to get the extra protection. If you go with a 70% antifreeze to 30% water, you will also raise the boiling point (check the container to see the difference in boil and freeze points). Don't be confused about boiling point and overheating (coolant turning into a vapor). If the coolant didn't boil, you can still heat the engine up too high and hurt it (thinning oil and detonation), but if the coolant boils, it more than likely will overheat. You should be able to drive your car at any temperature, especially if you don't have a/c.

I went with a 26" BeeCool with electric fans. I'm hoping to have the car finished this summer and I don't think I'll have an overheating problem. Keep in mind the cooling system is responsible for 31% of the heat the engine produces, 8% is removed through radiation (what you feel when you raise the hood), 31% goes out the exhaust, and it holds onto 30% because it needs that heat to function properly.

I don't know how you're changing the rad support to fit the 26" radiator, but if you're interested, this is how I modified mine. Good luck!!!!

Thanks for the input. However, your average high temperature in Lancaster, PA. In August is 84 degrees and here in Phoenix, AZ 109; big difference. When it is 84 here, I have no problem.

Regarding thermostats, the 165, 180 or 195 is when it begins to open while others say that is when it is wide open. Once my engine engine is at 215, the thermostat is irrelevant; they all would be wide open. Thermostats are more relevant to winter and when your heater becomes available.

You stated that the radiator needs to hold the coolant longer to cool but conversely that means coolant is held in a hot engine longer and just getting hotter!

It appears you did a lot of work to open up your radiator support from a 22” to a 26” which I also considered but I have access to a 66 Fury with a 26” support which is interchange with slight modifications to mounting brackets. However, I am sticking with my current 22” and going to hang the 26” radiator on it. Doesn’t make sense but it is working for others here in the valley when used with a clutch fan and shroud which produces more cfm but this also controversial; we will see! The argument to this it provides more coolant?

My current issue/question is the size of fan? Do I put in the 18.5” inch with an 18” radiator and modify the shroud accordingly as some have done or go with a the 7 blade, 17” fan. I can’t seem to find any statistics or anyone knowledgeable on the subject. Supposedly, a clutch fan will move 4,000 - 7,000 cfm but no statics and this would be subject to rpm’s. Again we will see.

My last option, which I have threatened, is the 12 guage pump currently in storage which would provide “additional” airiation!

Again, thanks for the thoughts!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks for the input

Thanks for the input. However, your average high temperature in Lancaster, PA. In August is 84 degrees and here in Phoenix, AZ 109; big difference. When it is 84 here, I have no problem.

Tell 'em! I abide on the south side of Tucson, AZ and many of these yankees don't have a CLUE about the thermal weaknesses in sloppy cooling systems which were the NORM 50-60 yrs ago for Detroit.

Regarding thermostats, the 165, 180 or 195 is when it begins to open while others say that is when it is wide open. Once my engine engine is at 215, the thermostat is irrelevant; they all would be wide open. Thermostats are more relevant to winter and when your heater becomes available.

ONE small issue. You're 100% right on about once the stat is wide open, you get all the flow you're going to. HOWEVER, I've found that for summer, stepping down from 195 to 180 helps. The REASON? A cooler stat opens up earlier, and thus more frequently at those moderate temperatures they're supposed to maintain. If you can prevent the coolant from often rising up to 200F + temperature, you will run cooler.

You stated that the radiator needs to hold the coolant longer to cool but conversely that means coolant is held in a hot engine longer and just getting hotter!

You got it! I've found its BEST to have the coolant flowing well to cool the engine. I have a cool engine in the summer, even in 114F ambient, stop and start traffic, w a 22"x18" radiator. Hell, I haven't bolted on MY 7 blade salad-chopper, yet, though I plan to the last week of this month. June, as you know well, gets a bit balmy down here.

It appears you did a lot of work to open up your radiator support from a 22” to a 26” which I also considered but I have access to a 66 Fury with a 26” support which is interchange with slight modifications to mounting brackets. However, I am sticking with my current 22” and going to hang the 26” radiator on it. Doesn’t make sense but it is working for others here in the valley when used with a clutch fan and shroud which produces more cfm but this also controversial; we will see! The argument to this it provides more coolant?

Slightly greater volume of coolant is good. I found a 4 row copper radiator did WONDERFUL for me last summer, and that is what I prescribe to folks out here. I had decent cooling w a 22x18" chinese aluminum radiator from this outfit w a name a lot like "Cold Cock" or such, but the damn thing disintegrated too quick for my liking, even WITH good bonding, anode and clean coolant. I was informed this is more rule than exception with those, especially here in the Sunny Southwest.

Be this as it 'twas, the volume of coolant, like thermostat temperature, merely provides more time for the system to warm up. If you overheat, more volume TAKES LONGER TO COOL OFF unless it blows out of a blown head gasket or busted hose or popped radiator cap. Then, the stuff cools off fine, outside your engine. I say get a good 22x18 copper radiator,

AND BY ALL MEANS BOLT ON THAT 18.5" 7 BLADE FAN W A GOOD CLUTCH!!! If you can find an NOS Mopar clutch, which is what I now use, that's tops, but the heavy duty Haydens do OK too.

My current issue/question is the size of fan? Do I put in the 18.5” inch with an 18” radiator and modify the shroud accordingly as some have done or go with a the 7 blade, 17” fan. I can’t seem to find any statistics or anyone knowledgeable on the subject. Supposedly, a clutch fan will move 4,000 - 7,000 cfm but no statics and this would be subject to rpm’s. Again we will see.

The additional 1.5 " radius per blade adds up x7xblade width for increased fan surface. Is your shroud THAT constricted? My 1965 shroud does dandy w an 18" fan. I've made a shroud out of angle aluminum before which did good w an American made aluminum radiator .. that got destroyed in an evil collision 4 yrs ago.

If you really want steady air flow, get an ELECTRIC fan! I use a 16" pusher on a 200 degree thermostatic switch. Excepting summer months, that's all the fan I use.

My last option, which I have threatened, is the 12 guage pump currently in storage which would provide “additional” airiation!

Again, thanks for the thoughts!

Save the 12 ga pump for imported crap. More satisfyin' that way bro.

 

[Mudeblue]

Tell 'em! I abide on the south side of Tucson, AZ and many of these yankees don't have a CLUE about the thermal weaknesses in sloppy cooling systems which were the NORM 50-60 yrs ago for Detroit.



ONE small issue. You're 100% right on about once the stat is wide open, you get all the flow you're going to. HOWEVER, I've found that for summer, stepping down from 195 to 180 helps. The REASON? A cooler stat opens up earlier, and thus more frequently at those moderate temperatures they're supposed to maintain. If you can prevent the coolant from often rising up to 200F + temperature, you will run cooler.



You got it! I've found its BEST to have the coolant flowing well to cool the engine. I have a cool engine in the summer, even in 114F ambient, stop and start traffic, w a 22"x18" radiator. Hell, I haven't bolted on MY 7 blade salad-chopper, yet, though I plan to the last week of this month. June, as you know well, gets a bit balmy down here.


Slightly greater volume of coolant is good. I found a 4 row copper radiator did WONDERFUL for me last summer, and that is what I prescribe to folks out here. I had decent cooling w a 22x18" chinese aluminum radiator from this outfit w a name a lot like "Cold Cock" or such, but the damn thing disintegrated too quick for my liking, even WITH good bonding, anode and clean coolant. I was informed this is more rule than exception with those, especially here in the Sunny Southwest.

Be this as it 'twas, the volume of coolant, like thermostat temperature, merely provides more time for the system to warm up. If you overheat, more volume TAKES LONGER TO COOL OFF unless it blows out of a blown head gasket or busted hose or popped radiator cap. Then, the stuff cools off fine, outside your engine. I say get a good 22x18 copper radiator,

AND BY ALL MEANS BOLT ON THAT 18.5" 7 BLADE FAN W A GOOD CLUTCH!!! If you can find an NOS Mopar clutch, which is what I now use, that's tops, but the heavy duty Haydens do OK too.



The additional 1.5 " radius per blade adds up x7xblade width for increased fan surface. Is your shroud THAT constricted? My 1965 shroud does dandy w an 18" fan. I've made a shroud out of angle aluminum before which did good w an American made aluminum radiator .. that got destroyed in an evil collision 4 yrs ago.

If you really want steady air flow, get an ELECTRIC fan! I use a 16" pusher on a 200 degree thermostatic switch. Excepting summer months, that's all the fan I use.



Save the 12 ga pump for imported crap. More satisfyin' that way bro.

Good comments all. One thing that is overlooked when discussing overheating is humidity. I have never seen any comments regarding this but it only stands to reason, the higher the outside humidity, the more heat is taken away and conversely, the warmer/hotter the air and the lower the humidity, the lower the heat isdispersed.

I appreciate the comment regarding the fan diameter because I am debating the 18.5” vs. the 17” because it affects the construction of the shroud. I currently am running a 12” pusher fan and wondering if I should step up to a 17” when I put in the clutch fan thinking it would help in city driving?

 

[Darby]

Thanks for the input

Thanks for the input. However, your average high temperature in Lancaster, PA. In August is 84 degrees and here in Phoenix, AZ 109; big difference. When it is 84 here, I have no problem.

Regarding thermostats, the 165, 180 or 195 is when it begins to open while others say that is when it is wide open. Once my engine engine is at 215, the thermostat is irrelevant; they all would be wide open. Thermostats are more relevant to winter and when your heater becomes available.

You stated that the radiator needs to hold the coolant longer to cool but conversely that means coolant is held in a hot engine longer and just getting hotter!

It appears you did a lot of work to open up your radiator support from a 22” to a 26” which I also considered but I have access to a 66 Fury with a 26” support which is interchange with slight modifications to mounting brackets. However, I am sticking with my current 22” and going to hang the 26” radiator on it. Doesn’t make sense but it is working for others here in the valley when used with a clutch fan and shroud which produces more cfm but this also controversial; we will see! The argument to this it provides more coolant?

My current issue/question is the size of fan? Do I put in the 18.5” inch with an 18” radiator and modify the shroud accordingly as some have done or go with a the 7 blade, 17” fan. I can’t seem to find any statistics or anyone knowledgeable on the subject. Supposedly, a clutch fan will move 4,000 - 7,000 cfm but no statics and this would be subject to rpm’s. Again we will see.

My last option, which I have threatened, is the 12 guage pump currently in storage which would provide “additional” airiation!

Again, thanks for the thoughts!

It's good you found a 26" support. I understand finding a nice one isn't the easiest thing to come by. I know the weather in PA is way different than the southern states. I'm a school teacher and we travel through the summer, we really don't think about the temperatures too much. We have a GMC 2500 HD (gas) and have pulled our 33' camper all over. Lots of miles in 100+ degree temperatures, using the a/c and pulling hills and mountains. I've only seen the temp gauge go up a little on one mountain. After that trip I installed a GM clutch for the fan (the original wasn't kicking the fan on like it used to). That was 4 years ago and it hasn't moved off 200 degrees since. Temps below 0 to over 100 does nothing, no matter what I'm doing with the truck. I only mention this because I'm very familiar with the south, including Arizona. From Nogales, Phoenix, Jerome, and then to Needles and across the Mojave. Not most ideal in the summer, but a very nice trip. It should be possible to drive our cars in extreem heat, even using a/c. Sure it was a problem when our cars were new, so staying with stock parts might not be best. For your car, I think going with the larger fan and a heavy duty clutch would be awesome. For me, I've completely destroyed an original car. I've had it 46 years and it's worth nothing to me in stock form. Bee Cool calls the radiator I have a 30" (it has a little over a 26" core), it takes up all the space from the battery tray to past the right frame rail (it's notched for the frame). If I have a problem with cooling at any time, I'll probably go with the same fan/clutch, and shroud (I'd make the shroud) that you're mentioning here. Good luck and let us know how it working!! The 12 guage idea might also be an option for additional air flow.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Good comments all. One thing that is overlooked when discussing overheating is humidity. I have never seen any comments regarding this but it only stands to reason, the higher the outside humidity, the more heat is taken away and conversely, the warmer/hotter the air and the lower the humidity, the lower the heat isdispersed.

I appreciate the comment regarding the fan diameter because I am debating the 18.5” vs. the 17” because it affects the construction of the shroud. I currently am running a 12” pusher fan and wondering if I should step up to a 17” when I put in the clutch fan thinking it would help in city driving?

A larger diameter pusher CERTAINLY WILL HELP. Be advised also that the quality of motors as well as fan blades, overall construction varies quite a lot. Are you BUILDING a shroud? Folks do this, including Yours Truly, though this 60 yr old Mopar steel shroud originating w a 1965 Fury does me very well w the 18" 7 blade salad chopper I just bolted on for summer yesterday.

If building your own shroud, have you researched the optimal placement w.r.t. fan distance from the radiator and engine? A GOOD First Rule of Thumb is: the edge of the shroud should be at the midpoint of the fanblade pitch. To wit, if your fan blades describe a 2 inch cylinder as they rotate, place the edge of the shroud in such a manner that it covers 1 inch of that, permitting the back of the blades 1" to pull air through the shroud, then scatter it.

I use and FFD-16 3600 cfm fan for my pusher, and have for 3 years now. From November until May, it suffices as ALL the fan I need w my radiator, but, come mid-May, I do as I did yesterday. You can get by with a much less expensive electric pusher, say, from A-Team Performance, or spend twice as much for a SPAL. I advise you to spend the least, getting a nice 16 inch A-Team Performance fan as the most cost effective pusher investment. Truth be told, a decent pusher makes a far better cooler than any shroud w a clutch fan for the dollar.

You might also consider for a future upgrade an electric puller w shroud. I LIKE the CONTROL one gets with electric engine cooling, though for a puller, I would opt also for a water pump, and a considerable upgrade over my 95 amp alternator.

BUT, as we Arizonans among other Southwesterners KNOW, these B/RB engines need plenty cooling in traffic here!

Stay chill bro.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Good comments all. One thing that is overlooked when discussing overheating is humidity. I have never seen any comments regarding this but it only stands to reason, the higher the outside humidity, the more heat is taken away and conversely, the warmer/hotter the air and the lower the humidity, the lower the heat isdispersed.

....

Humidity AND air pressure alike! The former can oft be rolled in with the latter in cooling considerations. We live at some altitude here, and likewise in an arid climate. Cold air is DENSE air too. Lump all this stuff into your Bernoulli considerations and Boyle's Law: PV = nRT. Relative humidity adds to the available working mass for heat convection in the environment. Likewise, consider airflow with your radiator area for heat transport. I went with Old School fin spacing down here, to allow for easier air passage AND CLEANING, rather than the High Efficiency spacing favored in the 1980s. Down here in the dusty, dry Sonoran Desert, I prefer my fins to have more room for the air to flow around them. If I abode in some low, wet, relatively clean region like New Orleans let's say, I might have chosen HE spacing.....

 

[Mudeblue]

Humidity AND air pressure alike! The former can oft be rolled in with the latter in cooling considerations. We live at some altitude here, and likewise in an arid climate. Cold air is DENSE air too. Lump all this stuff into your Bernoulli considerations and Boyle's Law: PV = nRT. Relative humidity adds to the available working mass for heat convection in the environment. Likewise, consider airflow with your radiator area for heat transport. I went with Old School fin spacing down here, to allow for easier air passage AND CLEANING, rather than the High Efficiency spacing favored in the 1980s. Down here in the dusty, dry Sonoran Desert, I prefer my fins to have more room for the air to flow around them. If I abode in some low, wet, relatively clean region like New Orleans let's say, I might have chosen HE spacing.....

Drove my 66 GTO here in Phoenix yesterday when it was 103 degrees with the a/c running and temp. never got above 195 degrees. That 12 gauge might still be the answer!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Drove my 66 GTO here in Phoenix yesterday when it was 103 degrees with the a/c running and temp. never got above 195 degrees. That 12 gauge might still be the answer!

Yah. Pontiac knew how to build good hot running engines, them and Oldsmobile! Damn GM corp mismanagement!

Get one of those A Team 16 inch electric fans w their thermostat. While not the BEST electric, the damn things work good enough for an AZ summer, in traffic. I've used them with 22 x 18 inch radiators to good effect, SANS shroud. Good cooling for the dollar.

Or, maybe you can sell your Mopar to the Morris Family of south Tucson. I'll get that thing running cool!

 

[Mudeblue]

Yah. Pontiac knew how to build good hot running engines, them and Oldsmobile! Damn GM corp mismanagement!

Get one of those A Team 16 inch electric fans w their thermostat. While not the BEST electric, the damn things work good enough for an AZ summer, in traffic. I've used them with 22 x 18 inch radiators to good effect, SANS shroud. Good cooling for the dollar.

Or, maybe you can sell your Mopar to the Morris Family of south Tucson. I'll get that thing running cool!

What will it cost me for you to take that, that, that, you know what I mean, off my hands? Might be just cheaper to ship it up to North Dakota; in January!