Coil Going Bad? Voltage Regulator?

[70NEWYORKER]

This might sound goofy but bear with me...
Is any part of your Pertronix mounted on the breaker plate? If so, there should be some fine wires that head over the body of the distributor and pass thru to the outside. Fire up your car and apply vacuum to the vac advance can and see if the motor gets unstable or quits. With the vac advance always moving the breaker plate around the wires leading from the moving advance plate to the body of the distributor will break internally. Had that happen to me on a Rolls Royce Shadow with Pertronix conversion. Hope this make sense...maybe you could post a pic of your dist with cap off.

 

[rexus31]

Good for you, man!
Most of us are not trophy hunters but it is nice when one finds us!

Nor am I. The wife and I went to grab a cheeseburger and catch up with some friends we haven't seen in a while. I hadn't been to that cruise in years and didn't even know they gave out awards. Pics from this evening before we left:

 

[Gerald Morris]

Nor am I. The wife and I went to grab a cheeseburger and catch up with some friends we haven't seen in a while. I hadn't been to that cruise in years and didn't even know they gave out awards. Pics from this evening before we left:

View attachment 294254 View attachment 294255 View attachment 294256

LOVELY car!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Why do so many of the drivability threads all have a pertronix ignition? Is there a correlation? Seems like it

Your voltage regulator is fine.

You are better off with points anyway. Just make sure they are good and the cam is lubed up and not dry. Many trouble free miles with points

WISE words!

 

[Scoopy G]

My understanding was that the Pertronix kits with the Flame Thrower coils are designed to operate on 12 volts, and that's why I simply removed the ballast resistor(I recall the instructions give some guidelines to determine if an external resistor is required, and in my case it wasn't). This has proved to be a good setup so far, the car starts right up and idles and throttles up great. But then again I've only run the car in the shop for the last few weeks, and have not as yet had it on the road.

 

[Turboomni]

It's possible it was just a fluke thing that happened. Who knows.

Not acceptable. If it was me and still a mystery of what had happened I would never be happy driving the car even though it is running great. I almost went the Pertronix route and I know many that have with great success. I didn't because when tuned well the engine runs so good on points and is easily fixed if needed. There are enough mysteries in life.

 

[Bsando]

My 413 is having a similar issue. It has a pertronix conversion as well. The ballast resistor is bypassed with a wire soldered. Runs fine when cold, as it reaches operating temp, it starts to exhaust pop. I thought it was a vacuum leak at the carb base, so I tightened it down. A couple of the bolts needed tightened a turn or two. I took it out again today and when it reached operating temperature it did it again. This time shaking at a stop light while idling. Any advice?

Thanks

Bill

 

[Ripinator]

My 413 is having a similar issue. It has a pertronix conversion as well. The ballast resistor is bypassed with a wire soldered. Runs fine when cold, as it reaches operating temp, it starts to exhaust pop. I thought it was a vacuum leak at the carb base, so I tightened it down. A couple of the bolts needed tightened a turn or two. I took it out again today and when it reached operating temperature it did it again. This time shaking at a stop light while idling. Any advice?

Thanks

Bill

Sure does sound like a coil problem. Is the coil original or a replacement coil?

 

[rexus31]

My 413 is having a similar issue. It has a pertronix conversion as well. The ballast resistor is bypassed with a wire soldered. Runs fine when cold, as it reaches operating temp, it starts to exhaust pop. I thought it was a vacuum leak at the carb base, so I tightened it down. A couple of the bolts needed tightened a turn or two. I took it out again today and when it reached operating temperature it did it again. This time shaking at a stop light while idling. Any advice?

Thanks

Bill

Which Pertronix generation are you running? Are you running the Pertronix coil too?

 

[Bsando]

Sure does sound like a coil problem. Is the coil original or a replacement coil?

It's a replacement pertronix to match the ignitor system

 

[Bsando]

Which Pertronix generation are you running? Are you running the Pertronix coil too?

Ignitor I with the Pertronix coil and no ballast resistor (bypassed with a wire to look oem)

 

[Ripinator]

Ignitor I with the Pertronix coil and no ballast resistor (bypassed with a wire to look oem)

I know a guy who has the points, condenser and coil you need. . .

 

[Gerald Morris]

I keep at least 6 of these in reserve at all times:

NOS MOPAR Ignition Contact Set / Points Set #2098044 | eBay

+

AMC Mopar Chrysler Dodge Jeep CH103 AL-111T Ignition Condenser Made in the USA | eBay

The Standard UC12 coils do VERY nicely with these points and condensers. Rock Auto carries them for just under $30 I think. I run Mathilda's 1966 383 2 barrel with this stuff using copper 7 mm plug wires and Rajah terminals. VERY LOW IMPEDANCE works BEST with this conventional 1960s tech. I don't worry about RF noise, as my cell phone makes all that kind of propaganda racket I could want without any trouble. Tilly idles very smoothly at curb 500 rpm, with good acceleration et al up to about 85 mph w a 2:76 rear end. I'll get a tach one of these daze when I have nothing better to burn $$ on. Then I'll know the rolling rpm(s) for certain key data.