Color HELP!

GrandpasDream

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I am hoping this picture can help narrow it down. I would like to try and find this color but not sure where to start.


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The folks I am working with are having a hard time matching this color. They think it is a custom color and it may well be. T5 is the code for I think 71 Plymouth? I took the code to Napa where they jammed T5 into a rattle can. I have the original and paint MM1 or M Turbine Bronze Metallic sitting side by side sprayed on a test panel also from a rattle can. Does it look like the picture above matches the test panel on the right?

The panel on the left is the original color for the car I own 1968 Newport. Thoughts?
 
It "may" be the same color in two different types of paint. I read on a forum- perhaps this one - that a particular shade will vary depending upon paint type, enamel, lacquer, 2-pack, water based etc will look "similar" but won't be identical to each other.

Probably the best you can do is take a sample of the original color from say, inside the trunk where it hasn't been affected by fading over the years, get it scanned and use the suggested formula.

Best wishes, looks a nice color.
 
A good auto paint store should be able to look up the paint code for your car and find the formula to mix it up. Alternatively, if you have good original paint on part of your car that is removable, like a fender skirt, a good auto paint store with a camera can take a photo of the part to get a formula to match the paint color.

Dave, in the post above is absolutely correct. Also, modern paint tends to have more metallic in it and a base coat, clear coat (2-stage) paint job will look a bit different and sometimes brighter than a single stage paint job in the same color.

Chrysler offered different shades of this color from 68 - 71.
 
It "may" be the same color in two different types of paint. I read on a forum- perhaps this one - that a particular shade will vary depending upon paint type, enamel, lacquer, 2-pack, water based etc will look "similar" but won't be identical to each other.

Probably the best you can do is take a sample of the original color from say, inside the trunk where it hasn't been affected by fading over the years, get it scanned and use the suggested formula.

Best wishes, looks a nice color.


Thanks, yeah I like it. The only thing is the car pictured above near the fire station is not mine. I have the correct color code for my original color. What I am trying to match is the T5 on what I was told on this car above vs the test panel on the right in my picture. The test panel on the left is original M1 or M and I am not so sure I want to go with that color again after seeing this one shot on this car in front of the firestation. Sorry i wasn't clear. Posted after having a few adult beverages.
 
In matching paint, there ARE some side issues, other than if it's computer matched or "eye-matched".

First one was noted in my '66 Chrysler service manual, regarding metallic colors. The base color can be accurate, BUT the air pressure at the gun can make the metallic "bright" or "not-so-bright" due to how it lands and is oriented in the base paint. This will shift the perceived color lighter or darker.

Some colors will be more difficult to match than others. Once, we had a '70s Corvette on our used car lot. In normal daylight, the silver looked nice, but in the later afternoon, with it parked perpendicular to the setting sun, there was a spot in the middle of the lh door that really stood out. A "repair" had been done and the paint blended in with the existing acrylic lacquer, until that one sun angle happened. Might as well have had a neon sign hanging on that door!

Second can be the amount of metallic blended into the base color. More metallic, "brighter", etc.

Putting clear over a known base color can affect the final color. Which is why BCCC paint takes a bit of a knack to match as it's being sprayed for a spot repair. BCCC paints might end up being the correct color, but will be much shinier than the OEM single-stage acrylic enamel ever was.

I understand that using water-based paints, as with some house paints, the final color isn't accurate until it's fully dried. Experience and expertise with the particular brand of paint system being used is important.

In some of the first "clearcoat" paints that Ford used in the middle 1970s, usually Lincolns and T-birds (as they both came from the Wixom plant), from what an old body man told me, you sprayed two coats of the base color. Then, after appropriate flash time, you "cut" it 1/2 with clear, then two more coats, more flash time, then cut it 1/2 again with clear, two more coats. More flash time, then the final coats were in pure clear. THEN, the color match should be accurate, he said.

Always use the paint codes rather than the "trade name" in the chip chart or in the OEM sales literature. Same code can have different names in different divisions and model years.

I'm going to suspect that pictures Road Runner is BCCC Turbine Bronze?

The other thing about matching the older colors is that the pigments used have changed so that a conversion formula must be devised or supplied. Not all paint suppliers have those conversion formulas, which makes the computer-match more important AND from a section of the car that hasn't seen UV light very much.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
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I sprayed this car 10 years ago, and it hasn't seen the light of day since. As you can see, it also has a layer of dust.

However, it is the correct formulation of Turbine Bronze for '68. That formulation was changed over the years it was offered, but the name stayed the same.

In real life, it has copper/pink undertones. A VERY nice color in the sun.

IMG_20180528_102505.jpg


IMG_20180528_102458.jpg


IMG_20180528_102437.jpg
 
My '67 CE23 is Turbine Bronze. It does have a reddish tint to it. When I was showing it with our other club members, I had a local paint store do me a quart of paint for it. They did it to the factory formula. I got an artists' camel hair brush to do light touch-ups with. To my surprise, the "factory pack" paint matched perfectly! A little finesse in my work and they were nearly invisible when the paint had dried. I was impressed! Still have the rest of that quart. This was in the later 1980s.

CBODY67
 
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