convertible top mechanism - service

[69_topless]

My convertible top on 69 Polara needs some attention, the first time in 10 years. I noticed the top becoming slower to close, while once I had to give it a push to move to circa 50 percent of its track to get the top closed. Quick inspection shows, there is no enough of the fluid in the tubes, giving the pump a hard time pushing the top-up.

So far I found to add ATF fluid into the system but trying to do it first time correct, I would like to check where exactly do you add the fluid? Its the screw or the nut on the side, where I should add some oil? How much, like with differential until its leaking? Give some runs up and down to check if needs some more? Thank you for your clarification

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

Put the top down then remove top motor from hold down, slowly remove screw allowing air to escape. Fill with ATF to about the point if can touch with your finger. Try going up and down with your top a few times, check for leaks and refill and bolt the top motor back into housing.

 

[polara71]

Being a closed or sealed system it shouldn't be low unless you have a leak.

 

[69_topless]

Being a closed or sealed system it shouldn't be low unless you have a leak.

Thanks, Pete Kaczmarski for valuable info, but polara71 was spot on. I found a leaking cylinder on the driver side. I can still put top up if somebody helps to push it up, but evidently I have to fix the leak. I have two options, please correct me if I´m wrong.

1) try to buy a new cylinder and replace it - any idea where to buy?
2) try to get the old cylinder repaired locally, sounds like winter project

In any case, I would make both sides at the same time to fix it for good. Without a further detailed inspection, it looks like the cylinder holds in place at the construction just on the top from sides and movable arm is secured just at the top position. So once I remove the upholstery, I should be able to remove the cylinder quite easily. Any advice? Thank you for your inputs.

 

[polara71]

Hydro-E-Lectric



I bought two cylinders in June. Perfect spot on replacements. I received them within a weeks time . Total cost $252.00

 

[69_topless]

Hydro-E-Lectric



I bought two cylinders in June. Perfect spot on replacements. I received them within a weeks time . Total cost $252.00

Thank you for the tip, looks like a good source. I will check local prices for an overhaul of existing hydraulic cylinders to avoid shipping costs to Europe and then make a decision. I was a bit familiar with the hydraulic lifts and there is a recommendation to change the oil every 5 years in order not to get the water into oil and keep it clean. Sure the lifts accumulate more runs per week then likely our cars per year. But disobey this replacement, resulting in the oil leaks and cylinder damage. Maybe it's not a bad idea to change the oil per schedule also in this hydraulic system rather than wait for the damage to come up.

Just to get idea, how long it takes a completely good system to lift up the top from storage to fully developed position?

 

[polara71]

Wow, I've never timed it out. Guessing I would say 7-8 seconds
If I say 10 seconds thats 20-25 % more time but it is so miniscule I wouldn't notice.

 

[69_topless]

Wow, I've never timed it out. Guessing I would say 7-8 seconds
If I say 10 seconds thats 20-25 % more time but it is so miniscule I wouldn't notice.

Ok that's confirm I have a leak for quite some time, I would guess on mine car this operation took me 15-20sec where most of it was the first half of development. Great, I´m looking once its back to factory specification

 

[polara71]

Ok that's confirm I have a leak for quite some time, I would guess on mine car this operation took me 15-20sec where most of it was the first half of development. Great, I´m looking once its back to factory specification

Let's see if someone else chimes in. I'm merely guessing on time. I suspected mine had a problem because the pump sounded like it was working too hard. It also took a bit longer than I felt it should.

 

[bluefury361]

Not likely will you be able to rebuild your existing cylinders cheaper than buying new. Replace, (rebuild), both. Cycling the top up down and up a few times is how the system is bled.

 

[1970cat]

rust on the rams tears the seals up. make sure that the rams are clean, but without new ones, the rust will quickly return.

 

[bildog]

If you are in need of a pair of rams that were tested and show no leakage and a set of hoses/lines that also are leak free, let me know as I will sell them. They came off my 69 300.

 

[69_topless]

If you are in need of a pair of rams that were tested and show no leakage and a set of hoses/lines that also are leak free, let me know as I will sell them. They came off my 69 300.

Thank you for the offer, actually, I´m planning just to double-check the dimensions of rams for the manufacturer for their validation, over the weekend. PM sent, worth asking your offer.

 

[Ripinator]

Ok that's confirm I have a leak for quite some time, I would guess on mine car this operation took me 15-20sec where most of it was the first half of development. Great, I´m looking once its back to factory specification

Hey! Check with these guys: www.convertibleparts.com. This summer, I ordered, received and installed new cylinders and a new hose kit from them. They have everything you need. Also, use DEX-MERC atf fluid when you refill the system. Here is a little more info:

The SAGA Begins - '66 300 Convertible

 

[69_topless]

Hey! Check with these guys: www.convertibleparts.com. This summer, I ordered, received and installed new cylinders and a new hose kit from them. They have everything you need. Also, use DEX-MERC atf fluid when you refill the system. Here is a little more info:

The SAGA Begins - '66 300 Convertible

Thanks for the tip of the atf fluid brand. Guys from www.convertibleparts.com were not able to ship to my country for some reason. But I ended up buying them at www.hydroe.com polara71 has suggested.

 

[69_topless]

Getting around to posting some updates for the new cylinder replacement I did in the summer. The parts from www.hydroe.com were superb copies of the old cylinders, with no fitment issues. I took everything outside the car (pump, lines, cylinders) and did replace them on the ground to avoid messing with the AFT inside the car. Installation was straightforward, did a few cycles up and down to remove the extra air from the lines. But the performance was not that great, but suspect the battery was on its last leg. Which resulted in a battery jump-start later, but that's another story will see how it works with the new battery in the spring, otherwise I might have to look at the pump condition as well.

What battery size you guys are using? The pump seems to use a lot of power what I saw when testing the system on the ground with the jump cables getting hot quickly. I have like 95amp 880cca battery right now so it's probably a good idea not to go to lower capacity.

 

[Ripinator]

Getting around to posting some updates for the new cylinder replacement I did in the summer. The parts from www.hydroe.com were superb copies of the old cylinders, with no fitment issues. I took everything outside the car (pump, lines, cylinders) and did replace them on the ground to avoid messing with the AFT inside the car. Installation was straightforward, did a few cycles up and down to remove the extra air from the lines. But the performance was not that great, but suspect the battery was on its last leg. Which resulted in a battery jump-start later, but that's another story will see how it works with the new battery in the spring, otherwise I might have to look at the pump condition as well.

What battery size you guys are using? The pump seems to use a lot of power what I saw when testing the system on the ground with the jump cables getting hot quickly. I have like 95amp 880cca battery right now so it's probably a good idea not to go to lower capacity.

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Your car is gorgeous! As regards battery choice: Get a Group 27 battery. I'm using a Diehard in my convertible. Here is a little info:

The SAGA Begins - '66 300 Convertible

Rip

 

[HWYCRZR]

US Group 27F and 24F were originally used. Small block used lower capacity group 24 650cca I believe. 383 2bbl no a/c used the larger group 24F at 750 CCA. A/C BIg block cars, 383 4bbl, 440 and all Canadian big blocks used the group27F. These were/are 850cca. With convertible fun I would not go lower.
Great looking car.
I was supposed to be in Prague this week, but ended up being a close contact the day I was leaving. I love the smell of the cooking Prague/Czech hams in the Christmas markets this time of year. (Although closed this year) Will try to get there in January, or Feb,or March……

 

['66 Fury I]

In my experience, our cars use group 24C or 27C batteries. The 24F and 27F have the posts on opposite ends for "F"ord vehicles. The battery cables on a Mopar will probably not reach the posts. Something to check out. Lindsay

 

[HWYCRZR]

In my experience, our cars use group 24C or 27C batteries. The 24F and 27F have the posts on opposite ends for "F"ord vehicles. The battery cables on a Mopar will probably not reach the posts. Something to check out. Lindsay

You are correct, I modified my post above. Probably comes from seeing so many “F” when trying to find mine.
Positive terminal should be towards the rear of the car closest to the fender. Negative should be on the rearward side closest to the engine.