Coolant lines

[ideologist]

Hello, any issues with the stock pump pushing through longer lines? I want to move the lines away from the engine out to the wheel well for decluttering the engine. Let me know if there's an issue with adding another foot or two.

Also, which port on the firewall goes to which port on the pump? I can't find a diagram anywhere and don't want to get it backward.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

No issues AFAIK - the stock water pump was used to flow coolant back to rear seat heaters on cars so equipped, so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[ideologist]

No issues AFAIK - the stock water pump was used to flow coolant back to rear seat heaters on cars so equipped, so I wouldn't worry about it.

That must be what those ports were for, I couldn't figure it out

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Sorry, I must have missed your other part of your post. I assume you have an AC equipped car, yes? If so, yes, there is a particular connection for each hose on the firewall.

On an AC equipped car, the coolant lines go as follows:

Front-most heater hose water pump port runs to the inboard-most connection on the firewall. Jumper goes from the inboard port on the firewall immediately to the right of the blower motor over to the LOWER of the two connections on outboard firewall port (left of the blower motor). The UPPER outboard firewall port (left of the blower motor) connects to the heater hose that runs back to the engine, connecting to the rear-most water pump port on the engine.

Here's a pic of member @Rexus engine before all the AC lines were installed - you can clearly see the routing of the heater hoses.

 

[ideologist]

Mine isn't AC equipped, or I'm apparently blind

I wanted to see what braided steel looked like, I'm going to fabricate a stainless bracket to route these over the wheel well and back to the engine.

You're welcome to tell me how stupid it looks

 

[saylor]

setting your ALT like that is diecy, especially if the battery is still connected.

AMHIK

 

[CBODY67]

The FSM has a routing and flow arrows, as I recall. www.mymopar.com

Sometimes, the factory hose routings can seem to be a bit sloppy to some, but that's the nature of things. Shortest distance = lowest cost, when you consider all of the vehicles.

Of course, you could always go to the plumbing dept and get some copper lines, solder in the right-angle bits for the corners, paint them black or put one of the plastic sheaths on them, and then use just the shorter pieces of rubber hose for the connection points. Maybe some of those things exist in the world of Earl's?

The other thing would be to use the hose-holder on the valve cover you already have, with the appropriate retainer to stack them one on top of the other, which was OEM for some applications circa 1965 or so? Then just make them look better with more gentle arcs, if possible.

Your judgment call and $$,
CBODY67

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I think it looks great!

In your first reply to me (when we talked about rear seat heaters and water pump capability), you mentioned additional ports... that's why I thought you have an AC car.

What additional ports are you referring to?

 

[ideologist]

setting your ALT like that is diecy, especially if the battery is still connected.

AMHIK

Absolutely, and it's not connected, I just had to pull it to have room to get the hoses onto the engine. I removed it completely to clean up the bracket and bolts and lengthen the wires

 

[Peachtree]

Ross,

I'm new to the forum. I'm about to purchase a 1967 Fury III, that has AC. The heater hoses are bypassed. Guessing the core leaks I've spent hours reviewing posts and read your description on the routing of heater hoses and hoped you could help me.

You mention the hose from the water pump goes to the port on the firewall. What is that called and where can I find a new one? I believe it's some kind of valve that controls water that goes next over to the heater core port.

From posts I've read the heater core itself is the same as B-body cars. Can you confirm that and either way where can a get a new heater core?

Since it looks like quite a task to replace the heater core I'm hoping to replace both the valve and core at the same time.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Hi - I replied to your PM as well, but I'll post here too for the benefit of any who choose to read this!

C bodies 1965 and up to at least 1970 have what's known as a "dual unit" heater core (two separate cores in one big assembly), tied together with two rubber hoses. I believe 1965 - 1968 C body cars with AC shared this core with AC equipped B bodies of the same years, but I'm not 100% sure - I think it is though. As well, they should be the same for Dodge, Plymouth and Chrysler for that year. As well I do know that they're hard to find. There are a couple of options for new parts:

1) Obsolete Air specializes in those parts and reproduce one. Currently they list it as a package deal along with the AC Evaporator core and other parts as shown here:

1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 Dodge Charger / Coronet Evaporator Core Dual Heater AC Condenser TruAir Kit

2) Mopar Mall shows the heater core as a stand alone part available:

Dual Heater Core w/By-Pass Valve for 1967-1968 C-Body & Imperial w/AC

The water valve is made for Chrysler by Ranco. It's known generically as the heater control valve or water valve, and it's specifically for AC equipped cars, as it's got a capillary tube which allows for flow even when the heat is turned off to permit de-icing of the AC Evaporator core in rare situations. That being said, NOS versions are very pricey, however, they can be rebuilt, and kits are available. You'll have to search around for those. Here's some information to poke around in:

Ranco water valve rebuild kit - Google Search

Also, Mopar Mall offers the service to rebuild yours:

Heater water valve remanufacturing service for all 1966-69 Plymouth Belvedere - GTX - RoadRunner - Satellite and all 1966-70 Dodge Charger - Coronet - SuperBee

On a simpler note, your heater core may simply be leaking at the two rubber unions that tie the dual unit together. Look at the pics. It may be a simple repair rather than a replacement.

Lots of information in this article here (while the year is different, the concepts are the same):
Replace heater core

As well, start your own thread and people will chime in with assistance.

For sure, changing out the heater core is a PITA, but not impossible. To make things easier, remove your front seat and carpet so you can lie down. Get the factory service manual which details the job. Take your time.

You may find your core is repairable, which will save you some dollars.

Good luck!