correct block?

Depends on 1)year 2)engine size

Start with the VIN, is it the right size
starting in 69 the VIN or part of it was put on the block

Depending on the size there are also stampings on the top/front of the block like C-273 or E-440

Get us more information and we an give a more detailed answer.


Alan
 
Here is an example of the vin stamped on a 340, it'll be in the same place on your 440 if you have a 69 or later engine. That's the passenger side below the engine mount.

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Here's a 69 440 block, the casting date is on the passenger side towards the rear and top and this is how your top pad should read as far as E440 part and yours should be followed by an HP and the other numbers which are an assembly date will be different as well. Unfortunately the casting date is hard to read on this one.
btw, this particular 440 has the entire vin stamped on the pad by the pan rail starting with CM23.

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That one had a stuck piston in it that I freed up with the 50/50 acetone and trans fluid mix. I then had it hot tanked, magnafluxed and measured to still be a good useable block which is original to this car.

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that's how my block looks, except mine is dirty. mine says

1 20 70
25364306

I will look tomorrow for the numbers at the bottom of the block..
 
That one had a stuck piston in it that I freed up with the 50/50 acetone and trans fluid mix. I then had it hot tanked, magnafluxed and measured to still be a good useable block which is original to this car.

Hey Matt, is that the Challenger A66 that was for sale on Cuda-Challenger forum a couple of years ago?
 
the top of my block says this:

F440 0

3 31 HP2

That makes the engine a early 1970 produced and fitted in the same year to a car, the HP2 means it is the high performance engine with high compression pistons, double valve springs and high performance camshaft. Definitely a very desirable engine if it still has all its original components.
 
Hey Matt, is that the Challenger A66 that was for sale on Cuda-Challenger forum a couple of years ago?
Yep, still have it, still for sale and much cheaper!
 
I'd be willing to bet that this will be the original engine to the Hurst car, now lets take a look at the trans.
 
Im going to take another look at the block today for the VIN numbers. The funny thing is, when I sanded the valve covers to paint them, the under coat is the mopar green??? and I can see some green paint mixed in with Hemi Orange on the side of the block through all the dirt oil and grime.. weird.... I have the heads off and am going to get them refinished. the cylinder walls show some ware but no scaring. inside the engine is VERY clean. NO gunk built up anywhere. Some of the rockers are warn down. Two of them were rubbing the inside of the valve covers. that's how warn down they are...
 
Im going to take another look at the block today for the VIN numbers. The funny thing is, when I sanded the valve covers to paint them, the under coat is the mopar green??? and I can see some green paint mixed in with Hemi Orange on the side of the block through all the dirt oil and grime.. weird.... I have the heads off and am going to get them refinished. the cylinder walls show some ware but no scaring. inside the engine is VERY clean. NO gunk built up anywhere. Some of the rockers are warn down. Two of them were rubbing the inside of the valve covers. that's how warn down they are...
Dont go boring the engine block if it only has slight wear, this way you get more life out of it before actually needing to be bored for a second lease on use.
 
At this rate I just may still have it!
 
Probably means Turquoise. NO green.

BTW, the last eight digits of the VIN are stamped into the pan rail of the block starting in the 1968 model year, not 1969, for all US automakers.
 
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