With being a powder coater, would you be able to relate power coating to something like cerakote when it comes to automotive applications? I know some cerakote has the ability to hold up to high temperatures so that it could be used on stuff like exhaust and brake components. Is cerakote coatings something you offer?
Busy week -- sorry for the delay.
Cerakote is made by the same company who makes most of my powders too. It's the best on the market and has been around for a long time. (I've been a customer since 1999.)
There are several formulations of CeraKote. High temp ceramics for headers and exhaust applications are just one type. There are ceramic clears for polished metals, firearms coatings, and pretty much any metal you want to finish.
Check it all out at
NICIndustries.com. Just click on something and follow the question prompts that walk you through to find what you're looking for.
Mainly because shipping costs got to be too prohibitive (and certainly haven't gotten better since), I pretty much got out of high temp ceramics a few years ago. I do use the clears on the rare stuff I buff and polish -- mostly Commando valve cover fins lol -- and it's amazing stuff.
But don't fret. I didn't get here by blowing you off simply because I can't do something for profit.
If you have the means to blast, thoroughly wash and blow them dry, and get an HVLP gun with a .08 mm tip ($18 on eBay), you can do it yourself and literally save hundreds of dollars.
I recommend first checking with your local friends and car club members and see who else wants to get theirs done. The ONLY expensive thing about high temp ceramics is the cost of the material itself (about $150 a quart) but a little bit goes a
longggggg way!
The more guys who get their stuff prepped to all be ready at / near the same time, just split the cost of materials between you. There will be enough to coat several sets of headers, exhaust manifolds, brake components, whatever, and you probably still won't use it all. It's also available in larger and smaller quantities.
Leftovers get poured right back in the bottle which you store in a refrigerator. There is no mixing (though I usually use a paint filter), and easy paint thinner cleanup.
The only color that needs tumbling is the chrome replica ... which really doesn't look much like chrome in my opinion anyway.
None need baking, though preheating them with your torch or a larger shop oven will help with blasting grease and oil stains off. Don't use your kitchen even if manifolds fit.
Cerakote flash dries in 30-60 minutes and continues to cure over the next five days whether still hanging on wires where you sprayed them, laying on the shop floor, or installed on your engine.
Start spraying as much of the inside tubes as you can and then move to the bare spots still showing on the outer portions.
It's good to about 2200 degrees.
If you're inclined to dyno test, do it before you coat them (it somehow voids the warranty).
I hope this helps.
Call me if you hit any snags or have other questions. And shoot me a pic when you get them done so I can be proud of your efforts too.
